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got the b4000 back from yhe shop. still some issues.


swynx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
2,401
Age
33
City
lewiston idaho
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Truck vapor locks from time to time. It gets worse the less gas there is in it. If it's on e and I go up hills it will do it pretty much ever time that I go up hill. Previous owner said he knows its vapor lock because there's a pressure relief switch and it sprays out air. It even does this when I start it on a flat with full tank. Itll try and idle at like 400. And it'll die if you don't pump the gas. Thinking I might just replace the fuel pump and but in a online fuel pressure thing.

Also when I push the gas past about half it dogs down it actually accelerates better at half throttle than full. I haven't checked the plugs but I bought some nicer plugs and some seafoam for tomorrow. Hopefully that will help.

And.. When I accelerate I get a weird ticking type sound from what sounds like the rear end. Doesn't do it when I engine break. Haven't checked the rear end fluid. But I suspect its low and the ring is getting annihilated.

On another note. Thought the shop ripped me off. They replaced the clutch, throw out, slave, master cylinder, fly wheel, and rear main for 900.
 
I dunno, 900 sounds pretty good to me. I paid 900 for just a clutch about 9 years ago.
 
Yah, How does it shift? You make it sound like the mechanics broke your beat ass old truck. It still needs a tune up. If the plugs dont make any difference, take a fuel pressure reading. Throwing parts at a problem and hoping it goes away can get expensive. Do some diagnosis first. :D
 
I now feel that I got an awesome deal on the clutch work. Labor was 450 parts was 450. At first it was very hard to get into first but it shifts awesome already started to loosen up. Also the engine has 265k on it so I'm sure it's abit worn out. Seems to have a lifter tick at certain rpm. I sold the Nissan 4x4 after driving the Mazda for 25 miles, it feels so much more comfortable...
 
The fuel injectors can "tick" pretty loud as well.

Loosen the fuel cap so tank isn't air tight and see if it still stumbles.
Could be the EVAP system, the EVAP system uses engine vacuum to suck air from the fuel tank, limiting fuel vapor pollution, if the EVAP solenoid is stuck open, this creates a high negative pressure in the fuel tank making it hard for the fuel pump to send fuel out, loosening fuel cap prevents this negative pressure build up.
EVAP solenoid can be cleaned and made to work again in most cases.

I would also change the fuel filter if you haven't already, they are $10 and pretty easy to change, as they get dirty they can limit easy flow from tank to rail.

Also check the fuel regulator's vacuum line, should be at the front of the fuel rail, remove vacuum line and smell it for fuel, if you see gas or smell gas then pressure regulator's diaphragm is leaking, you will need to replace it, this lowers fuel pressure but also feeds raw fuel into the intake causing various running issues.

Yes, I think $900 is a fair price for a clutch R&R
 
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Oh thanks ronD, that's the stuff I was looking for. Now I know quite a bit more about how these fuel systems work
 
Rear u joint is what's clicking. Put some new platinum plugs in it and some seafoam in the oil and tank. Have yet to actually change my coffee looking oil. Bought the oil and filter to do it tho. When i do I'll seafoam it again and add some Lucas oil stop leak to relive the gaskets even tho it doesn't smoke or leak. It still has no top end. Top end power is better but not like i remember a 4.0 to be. I've had 4 of them. It doesn't bog down as much now at full throttle but has about equal power to half to 3/4 throttle. Altho it is alot louder at full.

At 265k it might just be worn out. No smoke or leaks of any kind tho. Btw no vapor lock since new plugs and seafoam. It tryed twice but picked itself up right away.
 

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