good to use or not?????

[Doom's Day Custom]

I just got these hubs from a guy and i was wondering before i put these on whether or not these are safe to use???

The good is the left one
The right one has the lip chewed up and the taps got chewed

Thanks for your help
jay

 

[88gt]

i wouldnt use the chewed up one. it would be cheap insurance to go buy a new one

 

[AllanD]

Being slightly "dinged" above the circlip groove isn't strictly relevant.

Infact both hubs on my truck are like that and I've been running them
for a while (two plus years)

that type of damage usually occours as a result of the outer nut
backing off.

The only thing is means is that it can be a bit of a PITA to disassemble
the hub for cleaning for those that actually bother...

You didn't get that hub from me did you?

AD

 

[Doom's Day Custom]

Being slightly "dinged" above the circlip groove isn't strictly relevant.

Infact both hubs on my truck are like that and I've been running them
for a while (two plus years)

that type of damage usually occours as a result of the outer nut
backing off.

The only thing is means is that it can be a bit of a PITA to disassemble
the hub for cleaning for those that actually bother...

You didn't get that hub from me did you?

AD

oh no i did not get them from you and thank you so much!!!!!!

 

[AllanD]

Unless the "chewing" of the ribs actually impinges on the groove for the circlip
it fits into the "Cosmetic issue" catagory rather than "functional issue".

Generally speaking on the "Bronze bushing" Warns which have their
retaining ring groove 1/4-5/16" deeper than the torrington bearing
Warns the wheel, hub, rotor & caliper will part company with the
truck long before the nut can get anywhere near the circlip groove.

OTOH the torrington bearing hubs which have their circlip closer to
the nuts it is "possible" for the nut to impinge on the ribs.

The thing is if the nut backs off far enough to touch the ribs in the hub
on the left side the hub will try to spin the nut right off the spindle as
the threads run the nut deeper into the hub this goes from barely contacting
to complete catastrophic failure in 10-12 full revolutions of the left front wheel.

On the passenger side contact with the hub is self limiting because the
rotation of the hub tends to screw the nut back on (and out of contact)

Nuts backing off on the left usually result in loose bearings that create a massive shimmy before the truck spits the entire wheel.
On the right side the bearing burns up as the inner nut runs
itself tighter is "unrestrained"

AD

 

[Doom's Day Custom]

I have 96 ranger with dana 35 ttb and is there a a way to find out which set i have?

 

[AllanD]

The bronze bushing is narrower than the torrington bearing, so the steel spline piece tends to "stuck up" out of the bushing.

the on the torrington bearing hubs the torington bearing sits in a plastic
anti rotation cup (right under the retaining ring)

On the bronze bearing hubs the anti rotation tabs are moulded into
the sintered bronze bushing.

Basically what you see right under the blued retaining ring
tells you what you have, if you see "black" it's a needle
bearing hub.
If OTOH you see gold....

Not that it matters much ne way or the other, that bearing doesn't move when the hub is locked.

It's a "float" bearing that reduces internal friction when you are driving with the hubs UN-Locked.

AD