Getting the fuel gauge to work!

[NUguy]

So I have a 1990 Ranger and a 1990 Bronco II. The fuel gauge in both were inoperative when purchased. I trouble-shot it down to the anti-slosh module and tried a replacement from a 91 ranger but it was bad as well.

I decided to bypass it and while it may change while turning, braking and accelerating it is accurate under steady driving. This is how I fixed it.

Removed the cluster. The anti-slosh module is the board plugged into the right side in the picture:

The anti-slosh module out:

Remove the three connections on the left side. I used pliers to pull them.

The connections removed:

Jump the other two connections. Here I used a wire but later I soldered the pins together on the back side of the board:

This has worked for both of my RBVs and to fix a friends 93 Explorer so I figured the problem is common enough that I should share.

Hope it helps. Also if you don't want to pull the other three connections you can tape over them to test it.

 

[RonD]

Interesting, thanks

I always thought the aniti-slosh circuit was in the tank

 

[Ranger2300]

Two thumbs up! I'll give this a try tomorrow after work.

 

[Ranger2300]

Well it may have been problematic, the gauge went from 3/8 to under 1/8 but the tank is still full. Looks like the bed has to come off. The good news is I got to clean up all the grime on the clear plastic cover, and I figured out how a second gen dash comes apart without breaking antyhing!

 

[trikerider]

great thread I have a problem w/my '94 since I was in a minor rear-ender. I checked the inertia switch altho doubted it has any bearing on the problem.
I'll check this tomorrow.

 

[rhforeal]

What if your anti slosh module has 4 tab connections on each side of the connector instead of three and two?

 

[John RTC Engine Lab]

My float was brass and had a hole, so I replaced the whole fuel pump unit, but it still didn't work. I checked the resistance from the sender to the instrument cluster, and it was OK at 15 to 147 ohms. I also tried the tape and jumper method, but that did not work. I removed the SLOSH board and took it to work, where I applied power to it and injected about 50 ohms, but I only got 14.7 ohms out of it. I then discovered a brand-new SLOSH board on eBay, which I couldn't believe, so I ordered it. While waiting for the new board, I found a used capacitor in our capacitor bins with the same specifications: 100 microfarads

at 60 volts. I swapped it for the original big red one, and that worked. Electrolytic capacitors of the older types do dry out and fail.