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Getting ready to do the Spring Thing!


Tedybear

Well-Known Member
Firefighter
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
1,094
Vehicle Year
1994, 2001
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
Failing is easy. Everyone can do it.
Okay, for the ones following the one in the suspension? That's not getting a lot of play, and I'll be starting this wing-ding over the weekend.

The parts came off of a 1992 Ford Explorer 2door with A/C.

We didn't check to see if it had auto or manual. (edit: It was the ONLY Explorer we could find)

It took us a good long while to get the coils off....due to RuSt!

My question is:

The rear leaf springs came off pretty easy! However they only have 3 leafs. Most of the photos I've seen (heck, all the photos) show the 3 leaf's and an additional short leaf on the bottom of the spring pack. Kinda like an overload spring? If that makes sense.

So given the rear leaf springs look decent. They only have the 3 leafs. Soooo my question is: Do I just install the new springs and hope for the best? Or should I attempt to break apart my own springs and use a leaf and 'add' my own helper spring. (Keeping in mind my springs are shot and have an actual reverse arc thing going on.)

I'll be hope full the coils make a difference and give me a 2" boost over what I have now. That should with any luck? Kick my camber up a bit so I'm not skidding my tires off. Once it stablizes (and hope it works...) I have a local shop that knows how to align a twin-i-beam front end.

S-
 
My rear springs in my '01 were completely shot so I did the Explorer leafs as well and they have worked well for me. My new leafs did come with the over-load spring that you are talking about but I have seen trucks do it without. If I had the two choices I would probably put the 3 leaf pack in instead of keeping the shot springs. Keep in mind that the Explorers are underslung leaf systems and the Rangers are overslung so you may need to grind the nut on the bottom of the leaf springs so that it is round and will fit into the hole on the mounting plate (or I suppose you could pull it out and put it in the other way or add your own overload and replace it. For the sake of saving time, i just went ahead and took a grinder to it). With a 2" boost from your coils you should be okay as far as camber is concerned. With much more, however, it will really throw it off hard. I did 3" heavy duty springs in the front of mine and it pegged the balljoints and brought the camber wayyyy too far in. I'm actually waiting on custom upper control arms to help fix that problem (which you probably won't have). Hope this was kind of the answer that you were looking for. Good luck - Rangurr
 
That helps!

I'm going to flip the centering bolt-pin around for the axle mount. Considering how saggy the springs are now? I do hope for a lot of not really 'Boost'...but getting things where they belong.

My current camber is running a lot negative. Each time I come to the thruway toll booth? The guy always says 'You got something wrong with your front end? The top of your tires is buried into the fenders!'

S-
 
I understand what you mean now. I thought by boost, you meant getting bigger springs than stock. I'm not really sure if bringing the truck up will push the tops out. On mine it did just the opposite. I have more negative camber than an idiot's BMW in my front end... Flipping the centering bolt is definitely the better option when you're not in a hurry to get the truck back on the road (I needed it pretty immediately). Let me know how the camber turns out. I'm curious now
 

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