getting familiar with the Duratec 2.3..questions

[cozz]

got a 2001 new to me ranger from my folks....has 70,000 real miles. Car was well maintained and driven it's first few years, but has hardly been driven for the last few. i was going to replace as much rubber as I can, starting with tires, belts, hoses. To my surprise- no timing belt. My Old 1990 ranger had the different 2.3, and that's what I expected, And to be truthful, I don't expect to get the service life out of this one- lol. I have 300,000 on my 90, and it still goes, and even has cold air. I did some research on the duratec, and see the ranger went the way of the "throw away motor" what a shame...
That being said...Could everyone here chime in on the bad stuff I need to look for....so far, I am aware of these things
1) the engine is an interference engine, and has non keyed timing gears, with plastic chain guides (is there a tutorial on doing this timing chain? can't find it anywhere...also, what is the recommended mileage to do so?)
2) I read somewhere that there is a hose connection in the back of the motor that you can only reach after removing the tranny or lowering the motor? is this freaking true?
I want to use this truck to work from, so i really want to address the common problems before they arise, or at least be ready for them
Thanks to all that can give me a heads up, and btw, I know there is probably some good stuff about the Duratec, like it being lighter,and more efficient....I'm just a glass half empty kind of guy, lol

 

[RonD]

Timing chain should last the life of the engine, like 3.0l OHV or 4.0l OHV.
Overall the 2.3l DOHC engine has been very reliable, lots of miles on these since 2001 mid-year roll out in Rangers

2.3l DOHC Mazda L engine was designed for front wheel drive cars, it is designated 23EW, EW = east-west
Ford decided to use it in Rangers, and it was redesignated 23NS, north-south, for Rangers, has a different Cam for more torque, less HP
Duratec is a name Ford uses for several engine designs, including this one.

Because it was designed as transverse mounted engine a cooling hose at the rear of the engine was not an issue, easy to get to in that orientation.
Same thing happened with 3.0l Vulcan engine, but Ford change head gasket to eliminate the rear engine cooling hose connection on 3.0l for Ranger use.

Didn't do that for the 2.3l DOHC, maybe they couldn't, I am not an engine designer myself

So yes there is a cooling hose in the back of the head and it is very very hard to get to unless transmission is out of the way.

If you have a manual trans and change the clutch change that fitting and hose at the same time
And if cooling system is maintained then it shouldn't be an issue.

Rangers original 2.3l was a Lima 2.3l SOHC, and yes had a good reputation as very reliable, also a lack of horse power, about 100HP and 130ft/lb torque
2.3l DOHC does 135HP and 150ft/lb torque

 

[Soledad]

2) I read somewhere that there is a hose connection in the back of the motor that you can only reach after removing the tranny or lowering the motor? is this freaking true?

Actually......the hose can be removed without dropping the transmission. However, it is a lesson in patience and a test of sanity. Although I have not replaced this coolant hose yet, there are others who have replaced it without lowering the transmission. You will want to remove both front wheels and both fender liners to get easier access to it.

With regards to the cooling system, it's not so much the rubber that has a problem as it is the plastics. These 2.3L's run much hotter (in the name of fuel efficiency) than the older Lima 2.3's. And so the plastic in the cooling system path doesn't seem to last as long. The most common cooling system parts to fail are the plastic "T" just above the starter and the plastic "diverter valve" for the heater core. Next up is the degas bottle cap will weaken over time and allow coolant to vent or "puke". Always good to pick up a new cap.

One thing to check if you drain the cooling system is the steel coolant pipe that connects the upper radiator hose to the back of the head. Mine was full of rust. You'll want to replace it if it is. It's pretty easy to change out.

And a final cooling system note; not sure if you read yet but these Duratecs use an electric 208* thermostat. They are expensive to replace (about $80 - $125 depending on where you get it from). They have a built in heater to help open the thermostat early for a little extra cooling when it's required. Ford eventually did away with them in 2004 I think.

As for the timing chain, I don't have a link to a How-To on that one but I do have a Head removal How-To I found that will hopefully give you some insight into what's involved:

http://www.ranger-forums.com/dohc-2...hc-cylinder-head-removal-installation-147282/

Oh, and these Duratecs use an IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control) to help with off the line power. You'll want to check all the vacuum hoses of the IMRC Solenoid and IMRC Actuator to ensure they can still hold vacuum.

 

[pjtoledo]

I have 303,xxx miles on my 2005. they run great with very little maintenance.
I use synthetic oil, currently uses about 1 qt. every 2000 miles.


Perry

 

[F84R]

For that coolant hose it is a pain in the butt. I have seen somewhere somebody had taken the intake manifold off in order to do that hose without dropping the transmission. However I tried to do mine without dropping the transmission at all because I was at work in the shop and had access to a lift. I soon discovered that the hose connection at the back of the head is a real pain if you don't have the correct tool and even if you do have the correct tool. I've gotten to the point where I can if I have everything ready to go I can get the transmission down and out in under 45 minutes. I would also when it comes to coolant system if you have access or if you can rent the tool and get a cooling system pressure tester

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