Gathering information to rebuild my transmission.

[rebelrider.mike]

Today was a good day! The old clutch is off, as well as the flywheel. I was able to replace the rear main seal. I know very little about this stuff but I think the old seal was fine, and the oil pan gasket is seeping. I could certainly be wrong, but some time after all the transmission stuff is done, I may replace the oil pan gasket.

The pilot bearing is pretty stuck in place. I tried the hydraulic method, and some other things to get it out without destroying it. Long story short, it's destroyed but still stuck. Ran out of time today, but I'll get it another time.

The old clutch plate has worn away its grooves, but has not yet reached the rivets. Just for fun I compared the thicknesses. The new plate measured 8.2mm, and the old plate measured 6.7mm. Doesn't seem like much, but I'm glad I'm replacing it anyway.

The flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces look clean and uniform. No bluing from excessive heat. A new pressure plate came with the kit, so I'll replace it anyway.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Sounds like the pilot is in the crankshaft, once the rollers are out of the way I've taken a dremel and gone at one wall carefully until I got through then drove a fine pin (or hard nail) at the seam to break that and pull it out.

 

[rebelrider.mike]

I took the transmission back apart today, getting ready for the arrival of the rebuild kit. Looking over the documentation again, there is info on the orientation and assembly of all the parts of the synchronizers. I'll be paying close attention to that when I put all the new parts in. For now, they're all working well off the shaft.

Also in the picture are the old rear main seal off the engine, and the idler gear assembly, which I found out can be removed as a single piece from the transmission. I used the sheet metal screw method to get the old seal out. Worked great, though the head of the screw broke off right as the seal was coming out.

 

[rebelrider.mike]

Another question for you guys: The two big nuts in the rear of the shafts; do I need to replace them? It seems that I'm officially supposed to according to the documentation. But I've also heard that they can be reused as long as they can be re-peened after torquing. Also, how does one even torque the larger one on the output shaft? I suddenly have this vision of putting a hanging scale on the end of a pipe wrench, LOL.

 

[rebelrider.mike]

Another good day! There was a bit of good weather, and I got the pilot bearing replaced. I remembered I bought a pilot bearing puller years ago for some other project. It would have been too big for the Ranger's pilot bearing, but at some point I'd ground the hooks down to fit a smaller diameter bearing. Pulled it right out.

So that's the engine done and ready for the flywheel. I went inside to search for the torque specs for the flywheel nuts (60 ft-lbs) but before I could go back out to work the weather turned on me again. Meh. Another day.

More good news: my rebuild kit arrived early. Turns out I may as well have ordered the one without syncro blocking rings. Mine were all well within spec. And the kit didn't come with a 3rd gear ring anyway. I could have saved a bit of money. Oh well. After having triple checked the hub and sleeve assemblies, I got the shafts together and back in the transmission.

I've gone ahead and installed all the new bearings. I cut the bearing cage off one of the tapered bearings and used the inner race to press on the new tapered bearings. At this point I'm supposed to measure the shafts for end play. I think I'm doing it wrong. For the counter shaft I measured 1.4mm the way the instructions said, but after putting the retainer plates on, there is no end play at all. For the main shaft I measured 1mm the way they said, but I've got about half of a mm after the endplates are installed. What I've read is that there is supposed to only be 0.15mm or so. Not sure how to proceed.

My calipers may not be precise enough for this. I have a micrometer, but it's missing it's depth gauge.


I decided to stop for today and do some searching.

 

[pacstud]

Another good day! There was a bit of good weather, and I got the pilot bearing replaced. I remembered I bought a pilot bearing puller years ago for some other project. It would have been too big for the Ranger's pilot bearing, but at some point I'd ground the hooks down to fit a smaller diameter bearing. Pulled it right out.
View attachment 137420View attachment 137421
So that's the engine done and ready for the flywheel. I went inside to search for the torque specs for the flywheel nuts (60 ft-lbs) but before I could go back out to work the weather turned on me again. Meh. Another day.

More good news: my rebuild kit arrived early. Turns out I may as well have ordered the one without syncro blocking rings. Mine were all well within spec. And the kit didn't come with a 3rd gear ring anyway. I could have saved a bit of money. Oh well. After having triple checked the hub and sleeve assemblies, I got the shafts together and back in the transmission.
View attachment 137422
I've gone ahead and installed all the new bearings. I cut the bearing cage off one of the tapered bearings and used the inner race to press on the new tapered bearings. At this point I'm supposed to measure the shafts for end play. I think I'm doing it wrong. For the counter shaft I measured 1.4mm the way the instructions said, but after putting the retainer plates on, there is no end play at all. For the main shaft I measured 1mm the way they said, but I've got about half of a mm after the endplates are installed. What I've read is that there is supposed to only be 0.15mm or so. Not sure how to proceed.

My calipers may not be precise enough for this. I have a micrometer, but it's missing it's depth gauge.
View attachment 137423

I decided to stop for today and do some searching.

Thank you for posting all this. I plan on doing this project in the spring/summer and all of this is very helpful.