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Gas Gauge and Headers


94EXPLODER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Messages
137
Age
36
City
Traverse City, Michigan
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
Hello all,
I have a 94 EB Explorer..love it!...just wondering..is the gas gauge supposed to read while driving at a casual speed or at park...when i drive straight at a constant speed the gas gauge reads but when i slow to a stop it drops about 1/8 of a tank then goes back up after accelerating and stays ...and who makes a decent set of headers for the 4.0 that will fit into an X and whats the prices..
Thanks Alot
Nick
 
the gas is moving in the tank making the float move as well, my 90 ranger does the same thing,
 
The only time a gas gauge will be remotely accurate is on a level road with no acceleration. All of them are like that. JBA makes great headers. Stay away from Pacesetters.
 
dont be dissin pacesetters what do you know, how bout back up what you have to say
 
There is supposed to be an "anti slosh" module that prevents that, BUT they frequently die on the gen2 vehicles so mechaniics often bypass them instead of replacing them.

AD
 
dont be dissin pacesetters what do you know, how bout back up what you have to say

Let me tell you a story... I bought a set of cheap scrap metal with the Pacesetter name on it. Fit and finnish was questionable right out of the box. Bolted them up to the engine prior to installation with the supplied gaskets. No problem so far... until I tried to put the plugs in. Plugs won't fit the holes because the webbing between the tubes is too thick. Did a little trimming with the plasma cutter and we are all good again. Drop the engine into the truck and the flange on the right side contacts the frame. Again trimmed a bit with the plasma. All good. Engine won't sit on the motor mounts correctly. PCV bung is mounted at such an angle it contacts the firewall! Remove driver's side header, burn bung off and reweld it in new possition. Patch hole in header left by the bung. Engine now installed. Cat won't bolt up. Wrong bolt pattern on y-pipe. I pull the y-pipe back off and redrill the hole so the cat will bolt on. Cat bolts on but are rotated at such an angle they hit the frame. Rip Pacesetter crap off of the truck and put stock manafolds back on. Pacesetter is shit. :nono:
 
crbnunit, Why year was your 4.0?

as a reference 1990-94 use the same y-pipe to cat flange as the '88-92 2.9 engines

in 1995 Ford changed the flange shape.

as a note I think you meant to say "EGR" where you said "PCV"

Or did you mean HEGO port?

In general I'd say "nothing is perfect".

I have BORLA headers on my 4.0 engine.

The only issues I had were that they had an EGR port I didn't need (my 93 4.0 doesn't have EGR) I luckily found a brass plug that fits so well it looks like it was designed to.

the OTHER problem was that the design of the headers made Borla change the position of the HEGO bungs (not the PLURAL) were such that I had to hack up a junkyard on-engine harness and the leads to a pair of HEGO sensors to make an "extension cord" so that I could connect the HEGO
sensors to the harness.

The third and last "problem" was that the Borla headers don't include the "pilot" tube that slides inside the front of the cat, so that the y-pipe to cat gasket only lasts about a year.

It's a minor inconvenience to have to unbolt the MONEL (a Nickel copper alloy) bolts and stainless steel nuts that hold my y-pipe to my cat and replace the gasket.

Note: stainless bolts and stainless nuts would gall together making disassembly as difficult as dealing with rusty fasteners. Basically I had "exotic" fasteners so I used them

Sadly Borla no longer makes their headers.

But from what I can determine the only difference betwene the Borla's and the JBA's is the certification tag.

And that Borla's are stainless.

AD
 
Last edited:
Yup, EGR! Duh. Anyway, the engine and headers were for a 94 4.0. The part number on the box was correct so I assume they were either mislabeled or Pacecrapper manufacturing sucks. Even if they supplied the wrong y-pipe, that doesn't explain why the webbing between the pipes blocked the spark plugs or why the EGR bung hit the firewall. The engine space didn't change between years and neither did the EGR mounting. The bung was welded on at about a 15 degree compound angle toward the firewall and the driver's side fender. There was no way a stock EGR tube would bolt up. I would have boxed them up and shipped them back if I could have found the sales receipt. I ended up switching to a 94 intake, manifolds, computer and wiring harness that didn't use an EGR. I had a set of JBA's for my 3.0 before the swap and they bolted up flawlessly.
 

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