fuel tank help (!?)

[fireguy12117]

i currently have the bed off the truck for swapping the leaf spring brackets that were completely shot and decided i should look at anything else that needed replacing which leads me to messing with the sending unit. the top was really rusty and i have a spare so i went to dismantal the old one. well, it turns out that there is basically nothing left on the tank itself for the new one to screw onto.

was there a design change around 93-94 of how the sending unit attaches? and what are my options? scrap yard punches holes in thier tanks so i suppose i could repair one...LMC truck wants too much for a tank, but they did have a lock ring part listed. i have no idea what to do to fix this, so any pointers would be great...

IF there was something that was supposed to be there to have a sending unit screw down too, its not there now...

 

[fireguy12117]

so i have no idea how i posted that twice, but anyhow...

just searched summit racing and they have a lock ring kit listed too, with better picks. did i just panick for no reason and all i need is that lock ring kit to attach back to the tank and i'm back in business?

 

[Big Jim M]

I have patched quite a few gas tanks with silicone glue. One in particular was a virticle type in the side of an older Chevy. I had to dump a lot of silicone onto a torn paper bag and hold it over the rusted area while it set. Lasted fro years before the rest of the tank went south.
Modern silicones will hold that pickup unit forever..
Big Jim

 

[AllanD]

There are metal tabs that the lock ring engages, if those rusted off the
plastic tank you are basically screwed wotithout another tank.

The supercab tanks from 1990-1997 used that plastic tank but a metal lock ring.

the '89 and early 90 supercabs as well as all standard cabs used a plastic lockig ring as there was a neck (like a 1gallon pickle jar) that stuck up from the tank that the ring screwed onto.

The reason for the change was to raise the top of the tank to increase
tank capacity.

The other tank is only 17gallons versus 20plus gallons for the supercab tank.

AD

 

[fireguy12117]

thanks for the replies.

i guess i will see where i am at when the new ring comes and i get the parts in front of me. i cant recall what parts are in what condition as i had never seen that stuff before and didnt know what i was looking at. seems as though i have two decent directions to go in. salvage what i got, or get one with a hole and repair it.

what sucks is i had dropped a skid plate and tank getting a set of straps at the JY this past weekend. maybe that truck will still be there this weekend...

 

[fireguy12117]

so i have a couple options it looks like. i got a tank at the yard today that has a hole in it, but the lock tabs are in pretty good shape for having come off a 94. tanks identical to mine. someone got the sending unit off it.

the tank i have might get me by, but that locking tab ring is pretty rusty and i suspect i may have a hard time getting a solid seal with it being rusty. i got the lock ring and o-ring from summit, and a newer fuel sending unit of unknown history, plus my existing unit- that the top side hose connects are broken on.

i guess the best option is fixing the one tank, throwing it in and putting the newer sending unit on. if its no good, swap pumps or $100 for a new whole one. however, how bout some better descriptions or more ideas about repairing said tank?

jim, you mentioned silicone. just a bunch of it? it wont deteriorate with gasoline? i did get a 1 1/4 hole plug from the hardware store, the type that has a screw that smooshes the rubber out, im thinking some combo of the two?

 

[AllanD]

Frankly I wouldn't trust any plug for a hole cut into a polyethylene fuel tank
that doesn't have an O-ring seal and a NUT that goes on the inside of the tank.

I'd be tempeted to have a drain plug in the middle of it but if the plug sticks
then your plug assembly can work loose.

AD

 

[Big Jim M]

Fireguy, Although there are glues that will stick to polyethelene they are hard to find. Using a bolt through plug with an o-ring would seem to me to be the best. If in doubt about a permanent seal, using this sort of device and laying a layer of silicone would help in one way. The silicone will stick to everything except the tank itself.
I did google polyethelene adhesive and came away with several options...none of which are readily available.
I haven't checked with the local auto parts, as they may have just the right stuff, but I would if I had a poly tank that needed repair.
As a matter of fact I have been having problems with my Bobcat.. some prick put handfulls of dirt into the tank opening, and if I get another stoppage I intend to pull the tank and cut a huge FLAP on the top side..making cleaning it easier.
Before reinstalling I WILL SEAL the flap.. However at this time I have no idea what with!
Big JIm

 

[fireguy12117]

well...i just sort of shot gunned things by my gut and here is where we landed:

i left the original tank in place, A. i didn't feel like dissembling more crap to fully drop it and B. i just couldn't make myself feel good about sealing that hole in the JY tank. i applied some silicone around the O-ring of the sending unit to help combat the rough surface from rust, wound up getting a new sending unit as my spare was about 2" longer, had the truck pulled down the driveway tonight to sweep up the rust from all the other jazz about replacing spring brackets. pump seems to pump, engine seems to do what engines do, now.................

since i have the bed off, and i intend to start loading my Ham and CB gear, do i go through and put some noise suppression on that pump ahead of time?

you both rock by the way, ive had many a post from you guys, and many others, and i just need to extend a thanks for helping this learning curve go a little quicker!