Fuel Line Issue

[nvcook42]

This is my first post, I am a complete noob when it comes to most of this, so please be patient with my ignorance.

I have a 87 Ford Ranger and 4 times now it has had the same problem. If I drive the truck for less than 10 min park go to a store for 10 min or so then come back out the truck will not start. It cranks just fine but everything points to a fuel issue. Once I tow the truck home it starts no problem. I can drive the truck to work and back everyday with no problems, 15-20 min commute.


Details:
V6 2.9L fuel injected engine, manual transmission
Fuel injector is new
Fuel pump relay was old and I have replaced it.
Truck is manual and won't start if I push it and pop the clutch.
If the truck is running it has no problems
Battery and alternator seem fine because the starter motor turns over well just sounds like no fuel is getting to the engine.
I have checked the inertia shutoff switch and its not that either.



Questions:

Could the fuel pump be going bad?
Its just seems odd to me that I don't have any issues for my daily commute but as soon as I run an errand to a store I get stuck.

If it is the fuel pump what can I check before I go and replace it?

How can I test the fuel pressure at the engine?

Any other suggestions or information you need from me?


Thanks for your help

 

[adsm08]

There is a fuel test port on the engine, next to the intake, driver's side. It looks like a tire valve. You can get a fuel pressure gauge and screw it on there to do a proper test, or you can just turn the key on a hit the valve with a small screw driver. If it squirts you have pressure, if it dribbles, you don't.


Also check for spark. There is a splice in the wire that powers the ignition module that can go bad and kill power to the module in the start position, but leave it powered in run. I had that go bad on me a few years ago and it drove me nuts trying to figure out why the truck would start sometimes, not others, and run all day once it did start.

 

[nvcook42]

Thanks for the help. I have confirmed that there is no fuel pressure. Using a screwdriver in the test port I confirmed it was completely dry when I turned the key.

 

[RonD]

It really reads like a TFI ignition issue, when they are warmed up they do not like to restart, so if letting it sit for a few hours, like at work or towing them home, and you get a good restart but a no start after a few minutes then TFI module is probably the culprit.

No fuel pressure would be no start any time, not a reliable start cold all the time, I guess it could happen with a bad solder/splice connection, but it would be an odd one.
An engine would just die on the road, not wait until your parked and come back and not start.
One fuel thing to try is to loosen the gas cap, EVAP system can cause negative pressure build up in the gas tank, when you stop the engine this pressure creates a vapor lock of sorts until pressure equalizes, so quick restart won't happen, long shot but not a 0 shot, lol.

TFI work sheet and info found here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

If you have a hair dryer or heat gun you may want to heat up the TFI module on the distributor, with engine cold, then try to start it, if it doesn't start or takes longer then replace module.
So start engine up to confirm its starts, then shut it off
Heat up the module
Try a restart.

Coils can do this as well, so heat up the coil if module seems fine warmed up.

 

[nvcook42]

I'll check the TFI issue out. My hunch is its not the TFI because heat hasn't really been the problem. I got stranded once in the afternoon and wasn't able to tow it home till around midnight. It was plenty cold and still would not start.

Yesterday I was randomly able to get it going again and gave it a quick test drive. This time it actually gave out while driving. Everything seems to be pointing to the fuel pump to me. I plan to hotwire the fuel pump to see if it turns on then take a crack a replacing it if its not an electrical problem.

 

[Andy D]

most pumps have a check valve. If that sticks open, the system has to re-prime. If It happens , cycle the key a few times , then try to start.

 

[RonD]

You can "hot wire" the fuel pump pretty easily using a jumper wire on the VIP/DLC test port, it is located under the hood, nearer the firewall but can be on passenger side or drivers side

Look here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

Second diagram shows Fuel Pump connection and the SIG-RTN(ground) connection
Put a jumper between these two and it will active fuel pump relay when key is on.
This will test if it is the computer that is not turning on relay when it should.
If engine still stalls from lack of fuel, then relay, inertia switch, wire or Fuel pump is the issue

 

[Nhaz]

where are you located abouts? at this time does the local fuel have winter gas?

I cannot say for sure. since I dont have enough information. One problem with winter fuel is in older fuel injection systems. at temp 5-10 degrees C above freezing. the winter fuel (butane) has a bad habit of boiling out of the fuel rail shortly after turning the engine off. it then of course vapor locks the fuel rail until the system sits a few hours.

This problem goes away on its own and leaves a mystery behind. happens in the spring and fall.

one solution is bring the fuel pump up to pressure without cranking the engine, turn key until just before crank. Then turn it off. Of course listen for the pump if the pumps not working well). Step outside under the hood release the pressure from the fuel rail. when "and if you see fuel" then you should be to go. shouldn't take more then a couple goes.

 

[nvcook42]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. My diagnostics showed it was the fuel pump and I have replaced it. I have one quick question. The new pump is much louder, I could hardly ever hear the old one but this new pump is loud enough to hear when the engine is on if you know what to listen for. Is the loud pump a sign that I possibly installed it wrong? It doesn't sound bad or anything just louder. Thanks for helping a noob out.

 

[SenorNoob]

The pumps on these are pretty loud. If you have a very quiet (think quieter than stock) exhaust I could see hearing the pump over it.

 

[RonD]

OEM pump should be the same as original, sound wise.

3rd party pump could be louder, or quieter, no telling.

Save the receipt, 3rd party fuel pumps have had issues reported, might need that 1-year warranty