Fuel issues

[franklin2]

I find the EECIV system very diffcult to diagnose. And the very first systems they came out with can be very primitive, some with no fuel test port on the fuel rail, none of them had working check engine lights, and my 86 ranger relies on switches on the clutch pedal and the shifter to determine idle strategy for the computer. When these switches go bad or are not connected during a swap, that's when you get the little weird things going on during idle and tip in on the throttle. Later on they changed the programming I believe, and used the speed sensor more for determining idle strategy.

 

[wildbill23c]

Yep these older electronic trucks before OBD2 make parts stores rich LOL. Lucky for us this forum exists with many very well seasoned veterans with these older trucks that typically know where to at least begin and can give some really dang good advice on what to check. This forum has saved me a lot of time and money over the years, sadly had no clue back when I had my 84 Ranger about the duraspark setup otherwise I'd most likely still have that truck if it weren't for that feedback computer mess and I'm sure the TFI module in it was shot which caused the power loss and stalling problems.

 

[cbxer55]

Just as a HEADS UP!!!

Putting any liquid into the intake of a running engine can cause a Hydro-Lock which WILL(not may) bend a connecting rod or break a piston
Spay fluid in, do not pour liquid in because an "oops" can cost you ALOT of $$$

That's funny. Years ago, had a Pontiac Firebird that sounded like it had a rod knock. My dad said it was carbon fouling, got a pitcher of water, and with the air cleaner off and engine running, holding the throttle open to a somewhat high rpm, he poured the water down the throat of the carb, albeit very slowly. The entire pitcher. When finished, the knock was gone.

 

[RonD]

Yes, common practice "back in the day", my Grandfather SHOWED me how to do that

I wouldn't recommend just "telling" someone in a post that it is OK to pour ANY liquid into the intake of a running engine.

Not all would know the downside of this, and its a BIG downside if you do it wrong, OOPS doesn't quite cover it, lol

 

[1986RangerXL]

Okay, my POS OBD1 reader broke a button an hour out of the package and wouldn't read any codes.

So said f*** it and put a test light and jumper in.

From memory
Code 18
(M) Ignition TACH signal erratic – Ignition Systems

KEY ON TEST
Code 67
Park/Neutral circuit fault – PNP

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Okay, my POS OBD1 reader broke a button an hour out of the package and wouldn't read any codes.

So said f*** it and put a test light and jumper in.

Good man.

From memory
Code 18
(M) Ignition TACH signal erratic – Ignition Systems

KEY ON TEST
Code 67
Park/Neutral circuit fault – PNP

Code 18 is a fun one... IIRC, usually means hall effect sensor in the distributor.

Finding a Motorcraft one may be difficult. May not be. Don't get anything else but Motorcraft.

With spout plugged IN, what does your base time look like with a timing light? Swiss watch precision, or jumps around a bit?

 

[1986RangerXL]

Good man.




Code 18 is a fun one... IIRC, usually means hall effect sensor in the distributor.

Finding a Motorcraft one may be difficult. May not be. Don't get anything else but Motorcraft.

With spout plugged IN, what does your base time look like with a timing light? Swiss watch precision, or jumps around a bit?

Distributor is new, we think it might be a resistor going to the ignition coil

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Damn, check out the new grease monkey

 

[Paulos]

Code 18 can be the TFI connector. 34 years is a long time for those connectors, and the new TFI modules sometimes have thinner pins/blades, which will result in a bad connection in the old connector. Based on some of the issues you're having, I would replace the connector or try to tighten the contacts in the old one. If you pull the red plastic strip from the end of the connector you'll be able to carefully pry the contacts towards where the blades go with a small screwdriver. I had to do it on the side of the road once after installing a new TFI module. It fixed it long enough for me to get a new connector and solder it in.
The trans has to be in neutral before pulling the codes, or you'll get code 67. Not a big deal though.

 

[1986RangerXL]

The trans has to be in neutral before pulling the codes, or you'll get code 67. Not a big deal though.

Going to check to make sure the resistor is working, then look at distributor and TFI, I've got my old distributor still too so I can mess with that.

My transmission was in neutral when the test was done, so not sure why it throws 67

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Hm. When was neutral sensor introduced?

 

[franklin2]

Distributor is new, we think it might be a resistor going to the ignition coil

Code 18 is a serious code. You said the distributor was "new". What does that mean? I bet it's a rebuilt Cardone? Had the same thing happen to me on my 2.9. Had all sorts of problems bucking and jerking. Decided to replace the pickup inside the distributor. You have to tear the distributor apart to do this. I wasn't careful trying to pull the gear off and broke a couple of the teeth. No one in the whole country has just the gears, eve n though they do list them.

I finally figured my best option was to get a whole "new" rebuilt distributor. Got a rebuilt one from Cardone, they are pretty much the only game in town no matter what store you go to. Installed it, and my problems actually got worse. How can putting a rebuilt distributor in place make my problems worse? I pulled it back out, looked down inside, the module in this rebuilt distirbutor had never been replaced. I paid $80 for this thing, and I didn't even get a new module. CAREFULLY took the gear off this distributor , took it apart, it was full of old sticky black carbonized oil, ,they had never even took it apart. They had cleaned it up on the outside and put it back in the box. I put the new module in it that I had bought for the one I broke, cleaned it up and oiled it, put it back together and it ran smooth.

When I went to convert my 2.8 to duraspark II, I looked and looked, Cardone is the only people who had them. So took a chance, everything seems fine so far, but it's a crap shoot with them. Our best chance to get a good rebuilt distributor from them is if someone turned one in and there was nothing wrong with it in the first place.

 

[1986RangerXL]

My distributor is a CarQuest from AdvancedAuto. I will try putting the old distributor in and see what happens.

I think the reason I changed the distributor was a hard crank that turned out to be the positive battery cable and starter solenoid. Maybe the old one is still good

 

[franklin2]

I just looked it up on advance auto, they sell new Cardone, and I can't figure out who rebuilds the Carquest distributor. Looking at their website, it's probably the lowest bidder at the time when the contract is renewed, so it probably changes over time.

When changing parts be very aware of your engine's symptoms and if they change afterward. Sometimes it's because I forget to hook something up correctly, other times it's faulty parts I have installed,, especially when it starts doing something totally different than what it was doing.

 

[1986RangerXL]

Anyone have an idea what the right TFI module is for an 86 2.9? Tried looking last night, people said Ford trucks started using the black (CCD) modules in the early 90s. But said cars (the 2.9 is basically a car engine right) used it earlier. A couple owners on here said their 2.9 came with a black one.