Fuel issues - 2.3L gas

[smccaffrey]

Hey All,

I am new to the group here.

Picked up a 1986 Ford Ranger for cheap and am trying to get it started. I bought it as a project truck. I am not much of a mechanic so I am using a few neighbors and the web to get some ideas. It cranks and will start with starter fluid. I don't think fuel is getting to injectors. I pressed the pressure relief valve on the fuel rail and just a drop of fuel came out then it was dry. I replaced the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and wired the inertia switch wires together. Still did not start. I bought a fuel filter and have since realized I have a fuel reservoir assembly, with the filter likely inside. I have a few options and there may be more. Replace the fuel reservoir assembly with one that contains a filter (more expensive), one that does not contain a filter (less expensive), take apart the existing assembly and replace the O ring and filter. Any thoughts on this would be much appreciated, also any mods that would make more sense. I would love to get this truck running. Trying to figure out what to test next. Any thoughts? Thanks!!!

 

[Mark_88]

Howdy and welcome to TRS~!

The actual fuel filter on FI engines was inline with the reservoir assembly and should be on the frame rail just below the driver side foot well.

I'm pretty sure but not certain that you can try to bypass that whole assembly and run a section of fuel line hose from the filter to the fuel rail to test it. If the engine runs under those conditions then the reservoir could be plugged...especially if the vehicle sat for a long time with fuel sitting in the line.


From what I've read on here that canister is actually empty and sealed so opening it will create a whole new set of problems...maybe on the 86 models that was different but not from what I remember.

Perhaps those more familiar with the earlier FI can enlighten you more and I'm sure they will elaborate either way. But if you have a three foot section of rubber fuel line you can add in there to bypass it for a test it will tell you that everything else is clear and working as it should (fuel pump, relay, and inertia).

If it doesn't then maybe the problem is in the fuel rail itself...I've heard of them rusting out and causing problems so maybe something is plugging that section.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

1986 has two fuel pumps, a lift pump in the gas tank and a high pressure pump in the frame rail under drivers seat area.

You mentioned changing the pump, not pumps

On Ford fuel injection systems the fuel pump(s) only get power for 2 seconds when key is turned on, its a safety feature.
But both pump should get power EACH TIME key is turned on, so you can cycle key off and on as much as you need to to confirm BOTH pumps are working.

There is a splice near the high pressure pump where the power wire going to the in tank pump was tapped/spliced for the high pressure pump power.
This splice can corrode over time
Follow the wire from the high pressure pump to that splice.

 

[tomw]

You may have two pumps. A lift pump in the tank good for about 12psi, and a high pressure pump under your feet on the frame rail that provides the 40-ish pressure for the injectors.
The canister may have the fuel filter inside if there is not one in front(literally) of the high pressure pump on the frame. Some canisters were just empty, but held fuel 'at the ready' for the high pressure pump when demand got ahead of supply to feed the high pressure pump. There are 4 check valves in the canister, one pair for the supply feed and one pair for fuel return line.
The canister is plastic, and may be tough to remove. You can use a 'rubber' wrench that wraps around the canister, and using an air chisel, padded with a blunt face, on the upper threaded area may help break it loose.
You should be able to hear the pump in the tank run when you turn the key to ON. It should whine for 3-5 seconds and then stop. There is a relay on the passenger side of the inner fender, under the plastic shroud/cover over the EGR relays, the EEC-IV test port, and the starter relay. You can jumper the 'supply' wire to the 'load' wire and turn on the pumps, both, I think. Or check the control side for power at key ON. Actually, it may be ground that is supplied by the computer at key ON. Check for power on the control wire/contact(at all times), and the 'supply' wire/contact also. The computer controlled ground will energize the relay winding and close the relay, sending power to the pump via the rollover switch.
In most cases, a plugged filter will still allow fuel pressure to build if you cycle the key ON, wait a few seconds, to OFF, and repeat that 5-6 times. That should be enough for the fuel to reach the rail. It may not flow a lot of volume, but it should be able to build pressure. If you attach a fuel pressure gauge, and jumper the relay, or connect to the diagnostic port, you can enable the pump to run full time, and then divert the flow to measure volume.
tom