Fuel gauge reading empty

[G-Man]

My 97 Ranger XLT 2.3L single cab stepside (only 81K miles) fuel gauge has been recently been reading empty and the check gauge light is on. After reading through the forum, sounds like a common problem. The fuel tank needs to be dropped and a new fuel sender unit needs to be installed. While I'm in there, install a new fuel pump as well. After looking through Rock Auto fuel sender selection, I'm kind of overwhelmed on selection. Any recommendations on which ones are the best or ones to stay away from. Same recommendations for fuel pump as well. Any other tips from those who have been there, done that regarding this issue.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I have to say that was a good post. You put in the year of the truck. You put in the motor size. And you put in the problem you're having.
I read a lot of posts were people are asking for help and they don't put in the information that helps others to help them.

May I ask what exactly makes you believe that you're sending unit is bad or going bad? Or that your fuel pump is bad or going bad?

Just because your gas gauge is not working properly and you have a check engine light on does not mean for 100% surety that your sending unit or your fuel pump either one are bad or going bad. It may be something as simple as a bad connection.

Do you have an EVTM? If not do you know what an EVTM is?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Not sure if yours has it, but I know the older trucks had a problem with the float on the sender developing pinholes and filling with fuel, which then sinks it to the bottom of the tank, giving a false reading of an always empty tank. My one truck I actually had the sender float come free and float around the tank. Fixed it and had the thing fail again. Tank started leaking so I threw a new tank and pump at it. I just went to Autozone and bought a whole sender/pump assembly. You just have to make sure you buy it for the correct year and tank size.

I can’t even say for certain what’s a good brand and what isn’t. I had a Delphi pump come DOA and its replacement failed in about two months. Supposedly a good brand and got it from RA… who didn’t want to warranty the second pump.

Check gauge light comes on when the sender signals a fully empty tank.

IMHO (In My Humble Opinion), it’s easier to pull the electrical connection for the taillights, the three screws that hold the filler neck in place, and the 6 bed bolts then shuffle the bed back to get to the pump over dropping the tank. I know the extended cabs with the 20 gallon tank it’s almost impossible to drop the tank with the rear axle in the truck and no lift without removing the crossmember it sits on, and you have to undo all of the lines more or less by feel.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I personally did not mess with my tail light wiring at all. What I did was undo the six bed Mount bolts and then I got a friend to help me tilt the bed up at the cab end of the bed. Once the bed was tilted I held the end of the bed up in the air while my friend placed a pole in place to hold the bed up.
Like so:

I used a ratchet strap on each side from the door latch inside the door jamb to the corner of the front of the bed on each side just in case the wind blew too hard it would not move the bed.