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Front U-joints....first timer..


94EXPLODER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Messages
137
Age
36
City
Traverse City, Michigan
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
Hello,
I have a 94 4x4 Dana 35 exploder...
Front U-joints are shot...pretty bad actually...their messing with my steering...I am going to be tackleing them this coming tuesday...was wondering if there is a step by step or any important advise...i know you have to disassemble the rotors, hub assembly...does the knuckle have to be removed?
Thanks alot....
Nick
 
Don't need to take the knuckle off, just the 5 bolts holding the spindle and then the spindle itself (a rubber mallet is your friend.) after you remove the rotor and stuff. You can then pull the shaft out and replace the joints :D

Make sure to grease it all when putting it back together :icon_thumby:
 
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Its really quite simple and straight forward.
Step 1. Remove the wheels.
Then remove the break calipers, the bracket attaches to the beam, should be 15mm socket.
Their should be a C-clip that holds several washers and a splined washer onto the axleshaft. Remove these.
Remove the Locknuts on the spindle next. If you have manual hubs you will remove the outer nut, then a washer that has holes all around it with a tab that slides along the key way, and the inner locknut.
At this time the rotor should slide off. Be sure to catch the outer wheel bearing.
Remove the 5 nuts that secure the spindle to the nuckle. Use penetrating lube. A lot of penetraing lube.
Now using a soft persuasion tool such as a rubber malletor better yet a slide hammer. Remove the spindle.

Due this on both sides. The drivers side shaft will completely be removed. The Passenger side will only remove the outer shaft. The middle u-joint and shaft will still be held in place.

If you have a good c-frame ball joint press you might be able to remove the u-joint. Other wise you have to remove the front pig because that axle shaft is held in using a c-clip.

Now just simply change the u-joint's and reassemble.

When putting the spindle locknuts back on, Getting the proper torque setting is crucial. Personally I know whats close enough to be safe, so i tighten down the inner nut hard, and then back off a 1/4 turn. Snug up the outer locknut real tight with the inner nut and the tab washer.

P.S. If you have to remove the front pig to remove the inner shaft, it would be wise to have a 1 1/8" wrench and or socket to loosen the radious arm, the nut that retains the coil will have to be loosened and then the stud that the coil sits on, as well as the bolt on the bottom. The reason for this is their will be a bolt that holds the pig in place on the drivers side, its inside the channel of the radious arm.

Im not gonna lie, i didnt loosen the arm to remove the bolt, i notched the arm with a dremel, I do not suggest doing so, but i havent had any problems to speak of.

Having a buddy with an operational vehicle helps because you may have to run out for tools. The bolts that retain the front drive shaft are torx heads, i dont recall which size, but i bought two of the screw driver styles and bent the shft on one to help fit it in their to loosen them.

Be careful tightening up the front bolts that hold the pig to the beam, tighten them snug but dont keep forcing them once they are tight, otherwise you will strip the internal threads on the pig, its an alluminum housing.

thats about all ive got. Any other questions? just ask.

Heres a Link to an exploded view of a d-28. Its from the technical library, tab at the top of the page.
!Exploded View!
 
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