Front Shaft Help

[TwistedFreak]

I got a B2 thats in need of new ujoints in front shaft.But not fully sure if i can handle this never tore into one before and so im asking is this a hard thing ,should i take to a shop.I think im just not sure of myself i do just bout all the work myself on this truck and the chilton book really dont give me much to go on.So if anyone has any good thoughts or places that might give me better info on the repair. i did look here but i didnt see anything But i really could use the help lol looks like a shop might cost me a ton

Thanks for reading lol

 

[4x4junkie]

Its not hard if you have a socket for the wheelbearing locknuts. You may run into having the spindle frozen to the knuckle with rust though, some persuasion with a soft-faced hammer might be needed on it (or better, a slide hammer).

You'll want to use a press to get the u-joints out though (and the new ones in). It's possible to hammer them out, although you could end up beating the yokes up pretty bad (Harbor Freight Tools has a cheap C-frame ball-joint press that works well for this. Looks like a big C-clamp with a receiving cup on the end).

Hope that helps


Moved to RBV axles

 

[TwistedFreak]

thanks for the help.Ill stop by habor freight today after work can i also get the wheelbearing lockout socket there as well? And is there a place to find a better Step by Step how to on this the chilton book is very weak on this subject. Its funny but i cantstop wandering when i start to take it apart what i can mess up,what will fall out lol when i take this stuff apart.So only thing to do is just gather all info possible and just do it and thats the fun of auto repair

 

[Jspafford]

I doubt HF will have the socket you will need for the spindle nuts. Will probably have to get that at a parts store. You will want the one for "1/2" ton trucks.

 

[97BlackBetty]

Its really quite simple and straight forward.
Step 1. Remove the wheels.
Then remove the break calipers, the bracket attaches to the beam, should be 15mm socket.
Their should be a C-clip that holds several washers and a splined washer onto the axleshaft. Remove these.
Remove the Locknuts on the spindle next. If you have manual hubs you will remove the outer nut, then a washer that has holes all around it with a tab that slides along the key way, and the inner locknut.
At this time the rotor should slide off. Be sure to catch the outer wheel bearing.
Remove the 5 nuts that secure the spindle to the nuckle. Use penetrating lube. A lot of penetraing lube.
Now using a soft persuasion tool such as a rubber malletor better yet a slide hammer. Remove the spindle.

Due this on both sides. The drivers side shaft will completely be removed. The Passenger side will only remove the outer shaft. The middle u-joint and shaft will still be held in place.

If you have a good c-frame ball joint press you might be able to remove the u-joint. Other wise you have to remove the front pig because that axle shaft is held in using a c-clip.

Now just simply change the u-joint's and reassemble.

When putting the spindle locknuts back on, Getting the proper torque setting is crucial. Personally I know whats close enough to be safe, so i tighten down the inner nut hard, and then back off a 1/4 turn. Snug up the outer locknut real tight with the inner nut and the tab washer.

P.S. If you have to remove the front pig to remove the inner shaft, it would be wise to have a 1 1/8" wrench and or socket to loosen the radious arm, the nut that retains the coil will have to be loosened and then the stud that the coil sits on, as well as the bolt on the bottom. The reason for this is their will be a bolt that holds the pig in place on the drivers side, its inside the channel of the radious arm.

Im not gonna lie, i didnt loosen the arm to remove the bolt, i notched the arm with a dremel, I do not suggest doing so, but i havent had any problems to speak of.

Having a buddy with an operational vehicle helps because you may have to run out for tools. The bolts that retain the front drive shaft are torx heads, i dont recall which size, but i bought two of the screw driver styles and bent the shft on one to help fit it in their to loosen them.

You wont have to put this bolt back in though when you reassemble. Most guys dont. Just be careful tightening up the front bolts that hold the pig to the beam, tighten them snug but dont keep forcing them once they are tight, otherwise you will strip the internal threads on the pig, its an alluminum housing.

thats about all ive got. Any other questions? just ask.

Heres a Link to an exploded view of a d-28. Its from the technical library, tab at the top of the page.
!Exploded View!