Front Fuel Leak 1993 Ranger 4.0 XLT Auto

[Angry Possum]

Did some wire brushing to knock off the heavy rust, and some priming. I ordered a new filler tube.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thanks can you send a picture or a link for the sleeve hanger. The front hangar is rotted.

Hmm, the company I was thinking of apparently only does 98 and newer, not sure how those pieces fit on the older stuff. Might have to do something searching

 

[Angry Possum]

Hmm, the company I was thinking of apparently only does 98 and newer, not sure how those pieces fit on the older stuff. Might have to do something searching

This is the shackle hangar that's rusted pretty bad. I'm wondering if I should just get a new hangar or just have a welder support it better. That hangar may be a pain in the ass to remove.

 

[Angry Possum]

This seems like a lot of effin work. Thinking of having a welder support it. Your thoughts?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

This is the shackle hangar that's rusted pretty bad. I'm wondering if I should just get a new hangar or just have a welder support it better. That hangar may be a pain in the ass to remove.

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So, you’d have to knock some of that loose rust off the frame and poke around but the frame isn’t looking too bad from what the pictures show. That hanger is definitely shot. Your biggest challenge may be getting the leaf spring bolt out.

Those 4 rivets aren’t the end of the world. Personally I prefer to use a torch to burn the heads off and drive the remaining bit out with a hammer and punch. They can also be cut/ground with a grinder, drilled out, or use a cold chisel and a 4# sledge to cut the head off (brutal but effective). Use bolts to attach the new hanger. You already have got the best access possible with the bed removed (I’ve done these on the ground without removing the bed and it can be done, but it’s not a good time).

 

[Uncle Gump]

Replace the hanger... IMHO... it's the only way forward.

 

[Curious Hound]

This seems like a lot of effin work. Thinking of having a welder support it. Your thoughts?

It is a lot of work. But it's not complicated and doesn't require expensive tools. Well within the realm of DIY projects. As stated, it's much easier with the bed off. I've always done them with the bed on.

And for an educational tidbit, that is the front spring hangar. The shackle hangar is at the rear and has a shackle that pivots between the hangar and the spring eye.

For removing the rivets, I use a cutoff wheel to grind slots in the rivet heads. That makes it easier to chisel off the remaing bits. Then I punch the remaining part through with a hammer and punch. I think they are either 1/2" or 9/16" diameter. Sometimes, I drill a 7/16" hole in the rivet to weaken it and make it easier to drive out. The punch I use is home made from a piece of rebar with one end ground down to slightly less than 1/2". Don't skimp on hammer size. Little hammers won't get the job done.

Official rivet removal tools at the Curious Hound kennel.

 

[SenorNoob]

I found the fastest way to remove them (for me) was use a 4.5 in grinder to remove most of the head, then cut it off with a sharp chisel in the air hammer. Then a couple taps from the air hammer with a center punch has em out in about 3 minutes each.

 

[Curious Hound]

I found the fastest way to remove them (for me) was use a 4.5 in grinder to remove most of the head, then cut it off with a sharp chisel in the air hammer. Then a couple taps from the air hammer with a center punch has em out in about 3 minutes each.

I have never had luck with the air hammer. It just shakes and bounces all around until my knuckles connect with something hard or sharp.

 

[SenorNoob]

I find a sharp v-notched chisel and pencil tipped punch in the air hammer work well. I do need to sharpen both every 4th rivet though.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The best way I ever saw was an older fellow at a junkyard that would slice the head off the rivet with a torch and give it a whack or two with a like 6 ounce ball peen hammer to knock it out. Guy was a real surgeon with a torch. I’m still a ham-handed slob with a torch, guess it takes a lot of practice to be that good.

 

[Angry Possum]

I removed the fuel filter today (what a pain in the arse) and disconnected the supply line, from the fuel tank to the fuel filter, (both in and out lines) on the fuel filter. It was very easy to disconnect these fittings, the fittings with the plastic clip. I didn't do the return line as of yet, but will in a day or so.

I noticed there is short length of aluminum lines that enter the lower engine bay, which go into the braided lines at the inner fender firewall hub. I'll need to cut those aluminum lines down below, so I can free up the braided lines and snake them through. I want to do it correctly, I'd like to run the new lines the same way it was done in the factory.

Once all the fuel lines are removed from the truck completely, I'll do my rough measuring for the PTFE fuel lines.

 

[Angry Possum]

I will be ordering the shackle hangar from Rock Auto. I may as well do the job right, or don't do it at all. This has become a job, no doubt.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I will be ordering the shackle hangar from Rock Auto. I may as well do the job right.l, or don't do it at all. This has become a job, no doubt.

Unfortunately it usually does. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve gone after resolving one problem only to find two or three other things that need fixing that I didn’t expect. Guess it’s the nature of the beast.

 

[Curious Hound]

Unfortunately it usually does. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve gone after resolving one problem only to find two or three other things that need fixing that I didn’t expect. Guess it’s the nature of the beast.

Same as remodeling a house.