Front Fuel Leak 1993 Ranger 4.0 XLT Auto


I think that's gonna help several people who don't have or can't get good stock braided lines.
 
I think that's gonna help several people who don't have or can't get good stock braided lines.

Yes, as this is exactly why I created this thread. Everyone can benefit from this, no doubt. What amazes me is they don't sell already assembled PTFE lines with the AN fittings. Seems you have to make your own up.

What I noticed is they do sell pre made/assembled CPE lines (pic below), but in what I have researched they are not as durable/sustainable as PTFE.

Screenshot_20260607_102555_Chrome.jpg
 
*Update, I noticed from a Google search that you can purchase already assembled PTFE AN Lines, but they seem rather pricey.
 
Today we tried removing the quick fuel line disconnects, I have a friend whom is an experienced helicopter mechanic, and yep, they wouldn't budge. 🤬🤬🤬


Plan B- Running a new ptfe supply line from the fuel rail supply directly to the fuel filter.

I'm not sure which line was leaking originally, However If there's a leak on the low side return line, I'll have to drop the tank and run a new line from the fuel tank directly to the regulator on the fuel rail, thus resulting in all new lines.

This job is giving my a seriously bad headache now.

Your thoughts?
 
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Hopefully the connections on the fuel filter and the gas tank are easier to disconnect. I believe they have different fittings in what I had viewed on YT, this I'm not 100% sure of,,,, but anything is better at this point in my opinion.
 
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My next step, looks doable. I can prosper 3 times I suppose, because my sending unit isn't working, and I should I replace the fuel pump too, I might as well.

 
Personally I found pulling the bed easier than trying to drop the tank to get to the pump. Also I’ve decided that once a fuel line starts leaking, best to try and do the whole job in one go or you’re likely to be going back in after it.

I didn’t think working with PTFE AN line was too difficult. Little finicky trying to get angle fittings clocked right but you’ll probably only use those on the tank end so it’s not an issue.

I’m going to be up at my buddies place tomorrow, I’ll try and remember about my AN stuff so I have a list if you need what parts I used at the tank end.
 
I'm pulling the bed today. I have a fuel line question regarding how much feet I'll need. I had originally purchased 2 sets of 10' PTFE line, because I thought I was just repairing the lines in the engine bay. So now that I'm running new lines from the tank to the fuel rail, and tank to fuel filter and fuel filter to fuel rail, I'm wondering if that's enough length. Obviously I'm going to measure it up when I get the bed off, just wanted to know prior. I dont think 2 -10' lengths are gonna cover it, even though the tank is literally behind the cab. Is it possible to couple or join these lines if I'm short? However to be safe I'll get 20' more feet. Your thoughts.
 
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I'm pulling the bed today. I have a fuel line question regarding how much feet I'll need. I had originally purchased 2 sets of 10' PTFE line, because I thought I was just repairing the lines in the engine bay. So now that I'm running new lines from the tank to the fuel rail, and tank to fuel filter and fuel filter to fuel rail, I'm wondering if that's enough length. Obviously I'm going to measure it up when I get the bed off, just wanted to know prior. I dont think 2 -10' lengths are gonna cover it, even though the tank is literally behind the cab. Is it possible to couple or join these lines if I'm short? However to be safe I'll get 20' more feet. Your thoughts.
I bought a 20’ length when I did my green Ranger, but I didn’t have a return line to deal with and had extra line. My Choptop I bought another 20’ to be on the safe side but also decided to do the long frame run of return line in 3/8” aluminum tube and just do the braided AN on the ends.
 
It went very well today, the bed is off, the new sending unit is in, and its working, I also installed a new fuel pump too .I'm currently measuring up the fuel lines. Definitely making some progress,,, finally seeing a light at the end of the tunnel. I ordered the complete bed bolt set with the threaded clamp piece today at Rock Auto.

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The new fuel sending unit, oddly the tank says 1994 when my Ranger is a 1993.
I since wire brushed this area after the photo, and applied some much needed primer. I may need a little welding sone on one side of the shackle housing thats connected to the frame. I'm currently making a few inquiries for a welder.

Front Fuel Leak 1993 Ranger 4.0 XLT Auto
 
The new fuel sending unit, oddly the tank says 1994 when my Ranger is a 1993.
I since wire brushed this area after the photo, and applied some much needed primer. I may need a little welding sone on one side of the shackle housing thats connected to the frame. I'm currently making a few inquiries for a welder.

View attachment 144896
If you think you need welding on a spring hanger... you're likely better served just replacing the spring hanger.

A picture of the suspected area of concern would help determining best approach.
 
The new fuel sending unit, oddly the tank says 1994 when my Ranger is a 1993.
I since wire brushed this area after the photo, and applied some much needed primer. I may need a little welding sone on one side of the shackle housing thats connected to the frame. I'm currently making a few inquiries for a welder.

View attachment 144896
So, that 94 Ranger and an inventory number is junkyard markings, you have a junkyard gas tank from a 94 Ranger.

If it’s a rear spring hanger you’re talking about, you need a new hanger. But check the frame there real carefully because these frames often rot around there. Still not the end of the world, there’s repair sleeves. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve had to deal with that.

If it’s the front hanger, they are also still available. But check the frame there too, that angle in the frame there likes to get soft. There’s a repair sleeve for that too although I’ve just made my own repair so far.
 
So, that 94 Ranger and an inventory number is junkyard markings, you have a junkyard gas tank from a 94 Ranger.

If it’s a rear spring hanger you’re talking about, you need a new hanger. But check the frame there real carefully because these frames often rot around there. Still not the end of the world, there’s repair sleeves. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve had to deal with that.

If it’s the front hanger, they are also still available. But check the frame there too, that angle in the frame there likes to get soft. There’s a repair sleeve for that too although I’ve just made my own repair so far.
Thanks can you send a picture or a link for the sleeve hanger. The front hangar is rotted.
 

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