Front diff seems to be lockered up

[thatgirl]

Yes, I'm new. This problem has probably been posted about before, so forgive me. When I engage my 4x4 with the stupid push-button, when the hubs finally agree to lock, it's like I have a locker in the front diff. I turn a corner in 4H and it chirps and lurches.

It does this on both sides, but obviously travels in a straight line with no problem. When in 2H it does not happen, so it's not a hub issue or a Ujoint issue...I don't think.

My only conclusion is that it's the diff, not allowing the inside wheel to be free. Anyone have this problem? Or anyone have any insight as to what else it could be? Thanks!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Is the this on a hard surface? If so its normal, there will be some bind. 4x4 is not designed to be used on dry pavement or hard/dry surfaces.

 

[thatgirl]

Yes, it does it a lot in the parking lot where I tested it to figure out what was going on, but also on gravel, and it's not just a little bit. It's really lurching and gravel was flying, even when it's a mellow turn. It just feels awful, and both wheels have power.

Maybe that's the norm for this ranger, but I've had it for 18 years, and it has never done this or felt remotely this awful!

 

[Bennybooster]

Well If you have the wheel at full crank, it will just be the u joints binding up

 

[bobbywalter]

possibly cracked spiders/side gear...


busted lots of those. especially if the diff is low or dryish.



i am assuming auto hubs? cant believe they have not broke if the spiders cracked or fused.


pretty easy to check, get it in 2wd, and turn one of the shafts....if its draggin the other side the same direction you have internal issues.

i see this happen when one side stays engaged and only spins the one shaft...owner always complains of vibration for months then 4x4 problems because the spiders welded themselves half together.


if you have issues with vibes or front end noises..especially in 2wd..it needs immediate investigation....almost never cheaper to wonder about it for 6 months.


stop jack and gawk is the rule there for me.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

gravel is still not a good surface to test on. i test on gravel and the drivetrain still binds up to the point the vehicle won't move.

 

[legoms013]

gravel is still not a good surface to test on. i test on gravel and the drivetrain still binds up to the point the vehicle won't move.

Why not? Better gravel than asphalt. Look in your owners manual, it will say to only use 4wd on low traction surfaces, gravel is loose isn't it?

There must be a problem with your truck because there should be NO problem driving on gravel in 4wd. I do it all the time and I have front and rear lockers (automatic ones so there is basically no differentiation in 4lo).

Just never drive a 4wd vehicle with 4wd engaged on dry pavement, if its anything else you golden.

That binding, lurching feeling I get in 4lo is what i like to call superior traction

To the original poster, its time to check the internals of the front diff especially if this truck has never given you this problem before. Something inside there is fragmented and causing less differentiation than stock.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

Why not? Better gravel than asphalt. Look in your owners manual, it will say to only use 4wd on low traction surfaces, gravel is loose isn't it?

There must be a problem with your truck because there should be NO problem driving on gravel in 4wd. I do it all the time and I have front and rear lockers (automatic ones so there is basically no differentiation in 4lo).

Just never drive a 4wd vehicle with 4wd engaged on dry pavement, if its anything else you golden.

That binding, lurching feeling I get in 4lo is what i like to call superior traction

To the original poster, its time to check the internals of the front diff especially if this truck has never given you this problem before. Something inside there is fragmented and causing less differentiation than stock.

my truck is 2wd lol. i know all that jazz.

i guess i was generalizing gravel... hard packed gravel makes most 4wd's bind up. i only have 1 spot i can really test 4wd when im testing a customer vehicle and its a gravel pit where semi trucks turn around a lot.

sure i can drive on the gravel if i give it more gas to overcome the binding but im not trying to break their stuff

the 1 time i drove my 4wd f250 on dry pavement cause i parked it in 4wd the day before it just threw the steering wheel back and forth and then i couldn't shift out of 4wd lol. had to jack up 1 of the front tires and i heard a bang as the wheel moved a little then i could shift fine

 

[--weezl--]

this is completely normal behavior for a 4x4, the front and rear driveshafts are locked, when you turn, the front wheels take a much longer path around the corner than the rear, this is the exact same thing that happens with a locker in 2wd (if locked) because the outside tire takes a longer path, the difference is, it's not binding up between the wheels and the pinion like a locker does, it's binding up between the pinionS and the t/c

 

[feellnfroggy]

the 1 time i drove my 4wd f250 on dry pavement cause i parked it in 4wd the day before it just threw the steering wheel back and forth and then i couldn't shift out of 4wd lol. had to jack up 1 of the front tires and i heard a bang as the wheel moved a little then i could shift fine

This is a little excessive, being a 4wd mechanic you should know that when a 4wd binds up and wont shift out, you have to drive in reverse a couple feet or more to release the pressure on the drivetrain. THen is will shift as normal. Ive driven both Fords and GM (humvees)for the last ten years, never had to lift a vehicle off the ground to get it out of 4 wheel. And there were a couple times in IRaq I was required to use 4 lo on the asphalt, no matter what it always comes out of 4 wheel when you relieve the stress off the t-case.