front diff cover

[se7en]

I changed the diff fluidin the rear of my ranger yesterday. I got to lookin at the front and I dont think you can get the cover off because of the IFS. has anyone changed the front diff fluid on a 98+? I didnt want to pull the cover and not get it to reseat cause I cant get it over the ring gear. Thanks for your help

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

To remove the front cover you have to drop the front differential assembly out of the truck. And it is a royal PITA to try to get a suction pump in the fill hole.

 

[PickupMan04 FX4 L2]

Im not looking forward to it either... my front cover is leaking... ive got no idea how much fluid is in there its just one more thing to tackle on the long list of things to do..

 

[se7en]

think its worth paying someone to do? cause I REALLY dont wanna drop that. I just had the whole front apart cause I had a wheel bearing come apart while I was goin 65....messed quite a few things up.

 

[merc2dogs]

Once you drop it, the way to make it so you can change the fluid easier is to choose one of the bottom bolts and drill through the housing to intersect the bolt hole from inside.
That way to drain it you just pull that bolt, then put a little sealer on the bolt threads when you reinstall it.

Alternate, but takes a bit more effort is to punch a hole in the arm, then tap to take a pipe plug. best way to punch the hole is to drill a smaller hole, then use a punch to roll the edge of it so it's wide enough to take threads. (arm isn't thick enough to thread without rolling a shoulder) You may be able to use a rubber plug in a drilled hole. Either way make sure it's in a spot that clears everything inside.

Don't know how well tapping the carrier housing would work, steel to aluminum gets kind of finicky sometimes.

Don't recommend doing it while installed.

ken.

 

[kunar]

Once you drop it, the way to make it so you can change the fluid easier is to choose one of the bottom bolts and drill through the housing to intersect the bolt hole from inside.
That way to drain it you just pull that bolt, then put a little sealer on the bolt threads when you reinstall it.

Alternate, but takes a bit more effort is to punch a hole in the arm, then tap to take a pipe plug. best way to punch the hole is to drill a smaller hole, then use a punch to roll the edge of it so it's wide enough to take threads. (arm isn't thick enough to thread without rolling a shoulder) You may be able to use a rubber plug in a drilled hole. Either way make sure it's in a spot that clears everything inside.

Don't know how well tapping the carrier housing would work, steel to aluminum gets kind of finicky sometimes.

Don't recommend doing it while installed.

ken.

you are talking about a TTB, he has an IFS (98+)

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

First time I did one at work it took me about 3 hours to get it out and on the bench, drained, resealed and back in. You have to pull the brakes, knuckles, cv shafts and then its like 3 or 4 bolts holding the entire diff assembly in. Its not that heavy, its all aluminum. While you have it out put new axle seals in it aswell.

While its out and apart I would drill and tap the bottom of the aluminum housing and install a drain bolt so you don't have to drop it again to change the fluid.

 

[se7en]

thanks for the help I will probably try tapping a hole in it this weekend or next. I am on a military installation out here in omaha NE and they've got a pretty nice auto hobby shop here. Got frame lifts and plenty of tools....should make it easy

 

[Bent Bolt]

I have resealed the front cover on the 98+ rangers and explorer's without dropping the diff but it is a royal PITA. I highly recommend dropping the diff.

 

[polkat]

i to just recently changed my front diff on my 2000 all i used was a vaccume pump its like 35 dollars an northern tool works great and i got 95% + out of the diff; hell i sucked my pwr steering pump out and my break res out it works great for small engines