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Fresh out of ideas to install my 5spd !


alnvilma

Active Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2007
Messages
34
Age
77
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
YOUR ideas to install my 5spd worked!

I have read the threads and posts:
My M50D gets 3/4" or so from bolting up. I've bled the pressure off the slave,
turned the output shaft till I feel the splines mesh, cleared the gap of any cables/lines, spent hours lifting/twisting/pushing. Nothing.
People at NAPA have suggested "do not pull it back out now!"
Any other suggestions sure would be appreciated cuz I'm afraid if I use the 'longer bolt method' I may squash my new pilot bearing.
I did everything by the book; all new, lubed,straight, etc.
 
Last edited:
I have read the threads and posts:
My M50D gets 3/4" or so from bolting up. I've bled the pressure off the slave,
turned the output shaft till I feel the splines mesh, cleared the gap of any cables/lines, spent hours lifting/twisting/pushing. Nothing.
People at NAPA have suggested "do not pull it back out now!"
Any other suggestions sure would be appreciated cuz I'm afraid if I use the 'longer bolt method' I may squash my new pilot bearing.
I did everything by the book; all new, lubed,straight, etc.

I think the problem is that you're just not getting the trans in line properly. It's gotta be pretty much dead nuts on. I'd suggest buying some long bolts, and then cutting the heads off. You don't even have to pull the trans back, you can just slip them through the hole in the bell and then thread it into the block. That way, at least you'll be sure that it's actually straight.

I also find that it's pretty much impossible unless you have the clutch aligned. You can buy an a clutch alignment tool from almost any auto store. You'd need to pull the trans back out in order to align the clutch. Lots of people prefer the tool, but I just do it by eye.
 
You may think im crazy but just hook up the clutch hydro line and press in the clutch, and have sombody else push in on the tranny. If this don't work then there is prolly something in the way and not an alignment problem. This is how I always do it, and if you think im crazy o-well
 
When I did mine the problem was clearance on the passenger side. The trans jack kept hitting the cat. converter shell and other stuff. Also, the trans kept hitting the exhaust crossover pipe where it passes under the bell housing. All this occurs just at the point where you have the trans about perfectly aligned. Finally it went in; still don't know exactly how and I'm not asking any questions.

When mine went in my slave was not bled (was full of air). If the slave is part of what is keeping the trans back, you could open the bleed screw and it will then compress as the trans and engine come together. Just a thought.
 
Listen to brendan. Go to the parts store and spend the $3 for an alignment tool. Pull the transmission back out and make sure that you have the clutch plate aligned properly. I'll bet that last 3/4" is because the transmission input shaft is not slipping into the pilot bearing.

Under no circumstances should you ever force a transmission into place using the mounting bolts. If it won't slide into place with more than a grunt and a curse, something ain't right.
 
Well, I do have the alignment tool and used it twice to no avail.
I fear my only remaining option is the long bolts.....thought for sure I would lucky by now. My valuable lesson here is; I'm not young like I used to be I, guess. This is not new stuff to me but this application is just kicking my ass.
I'm sore all over and still no luck. I should be driving by now. Maybe I'll sell it for parts
 
There is no need to sell your Ranger. If you want to use the longer bolts to "check" for proper alignment, then by all means, do so. From what your saying, I'm thinking your not quite lined up with the pilot bearing. You said you used a clutch alignment tool so I gotta ask, did you by change test fit the bearing on the transmission input shaft? Reason being, you may have it all aligned but, if the new bearing is of a smaller diameter, it will give you the same symptoms as not having it aligned. Chances are, your over thinking the problem. Most times, the answer is the easiest one. Check all the simple stupids and rule them out. Then re-check all the things you first checked. Hope you figure it out!
 
if the bearing is correct fit,try a thin coat of wd-40 on input shaft.has worked for me over the years on shafts and shaft bearings(brand new)durring assembly.fwiw.
 
Well, I do have the alignment tool and used it twice to no avail.
I fear my only remaining option is the long bolts.....thought for sure I would lucky by now. My valuable lesson here is; I'm not young like I used to be I, guess. This is not new stuff to me but this application is just kicking my ass.
I'm sore all over and still no luck. I should be driving by now. Maybe I'll sell it for parts

Aaaw, man, we all run into one of those should-be-easy-but-turns-into-the-job-from-hell ones sooner or later. Being totally bummed and just plain damned disgusted is perfectly understandable. Hang in there dude; chill awhile and then have another stab at it. Don't give up yet, and good luck.
 
I rattled that damn M5od around till I was about exhausted.. then put just a bit more angle on it with the jack and *thump* in it went. The seem to be a bit more picky about the alignment than the mitsu's I've done in the past.
 
the slave cylinder won't collapse if the hydralic line isen't connected and will keep it from going.also i think totalled said he has a pilot bearing in the crank not the flywheel.if you had the wrong one the input shaft won't go all the way.i think he said that in nate dogs 2.9 and 2.8 clutch thread.
 
:clapping:
Thanks to all who inspired me!! I used a little of everything suggested:
-a little tweak towards the passenger side
-raise the engine a little
-connect the slave cylinder
-lube the input
-take a three day break and a fresh attack
-use (2) 10mm bolts about 1" longer to draw the bell housing two threads closer and start the real bolts

Nice forum and great knowledge base here. Time for a micro-brew
 
Awright! Good deal, man. Pat yourself on the back and pop a top.
 

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