For the love of god...please help!

[Mark_88]

You're in NB...there is plenty of cold air there...no need to add anything...

I'd just use the filter you have and buy a few replacements...you wont' force anything into that airway that hasn't already been designed into it...moving the MAF can have a negative side effect in CAI applications...they start to throw codes if the pipes are not the right diameter...

 

[Canuck4x4]

You're in NB...there is plenty of cold air there...no need to add anything...

I'd just use the filter you have and buy a few replacements...you wont' force anything into that airway that hasn't already been designed into it...moving the MAF can have a negative side effect in CAI applications...they start to throw codes if the pipes are not the right diameter...

...Im just happy it's back to normal. And I'm glad I didn't go nuts replacing parts trying to trouble shoot this misfiring and such. Some of these guys on the Honda accord forum that had the same problem spent big bucks on parts/ labor looking for a solution. I live 40 km (24 miles) out in the country to my job, and this misfiring during snowfall started to worry me to say the least. Going to clean the maf sensor tomorrow and call it a day.

 

[Canuck4x4]

...A powerful nor Easter blew in last night and when I traveled into work this morning the snow was blowing so hard that I couldn't see 20 feet in front of me. The truck worked awesome. Not one misfire....nothing!

...Im new here...but maybe this should be a sticky??If it saves one person the frustration I went through....or saves them from spending money on un-needed parts it would be worth it.

 

[Mark_88]

Not my call but I can tell you that this happens quite often. I went through it myself when I misdiagnosed a broken timing belt and went to the nearest Canadian Tire store and spent $200 on ignition parts, spent an hour installing them in the gas station parking lot where the truck died and discovered shortly afterwards that they did not fix the problem.

It has probably happened to many more people and the big problem is not with our diagnosis so much as the shock of how much a garage might charge to diagnose the problem and finally fix it.

I can also attest to the fact that one garage charged me $2000 to fix what ended up to be a $35 part (inertia switch)...

It is definitely worthy in my mind as being sticky material but the problem is if everyone with a cost saving sticky were posted it would be pages long without ever repeating one particular problem...so if they don't do it on TRS it's not because they are not concerned about helping us save money...it's simply because there are so many variables and possible problems/solutions...

If anything, you have gained one of the most important lessons I've ever learned...when we do something to fix or improve our trucks and then right away we notice something that wasn't happening before...it is a very good chance that it was something WE did and to go over everything...

So important to double check and examine this side effect that I thought that that would make the best sticky of all...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Like Mark says, making this a sticky along with all the other posts that would then be sticky material, would make stickies' pages too long. There is a search button that will turn up your post if the right search terms are used. The fact that you took the time to do the research and then post the results are what makes TRS this incredible community resource. Thanks.

 

[Doofy]

Amen. Thanks for posting the final solution. I try to follow all the interesting posts until the problem is solved.

 

[cbxer55]

You're in NB...there is plenty of cold air there...no need to add anything...

I'd just use the filter you have and buy a few replacements...you wont' force anything into that airway that hasn't already been designed into it...moving the MAF can have a negative side effect in CAI applications...they start to throw codes if the pipes are not the right diameter...

They do? I've been running a 3.0 inch polished stainless steel tube on my intake for 15 years. Also running a Spectre stainless steel mesh cone filter. The intake roar is awesome, louder than the exhaust. The only thing the 3.0 inch tube does is shifts the powerband higher. I would never ever put the stock crap back on mine, threw it in the trash in 2002. I tried putting it on once, and the loss of power was so noticeable, I shit-canned the whole stock contraption.

Never had a code for anything related to the intake except when my fuel pump went bad and threw the lean codes due to lack of fuel pressure. But, mine's a 3.0. Maybe t hat makes a difference.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

They do? I've been running a 3.0 inch polished stainless steel tube on my intake for 15 years. Also running a Spectre stainless steel mesh cone filter. The intake roar is awesome, louder than the exhaust. The only thing th e 3.0 inch tube does is shifts the powerband higher. I would never ever put the stock crap back on mine, threw it in the trash in 2002. I tried putting it on once, and the loss of power was so noticeable, I shit-canned the whole stock contraption.

Never had a code for anything related to the intake except when my fuel pump went bad and threw the lean codes due to lack of fuel pressure. But, mine's a 3.0. Maybe t hat makes a difference.

It depends on the setup.

Like the newer 5.0 Mustangs, if you get a CAI that actually does anything you pretty much have to get a tuner to tell the engine how to run.

 

[cbxer55]

My 2004 Lightning, the entire intake has been modded from the air filter to the plenum. LFP intake, C & L polished aluminum elbow (replaces the ugly crinkled rubber piece), Home ported throttle body, JLP sheet metal plenum (Part on top of the blower), blower ported and running two pound over stock boost cog drive. I've never touched the computer with a tuner to tell it how to run. It does just fine. In the Lightning world, it's accepted that going two pounds over on boost (10 pounds total) is within the range the computer can handle. Mine's handled it for six years now.

 

[Canuck4x4]

...Nothing worse than driving in a snow storm and having a vehicle violently bucking, thinking it's going to die and leave you stranded. I need a reliable vehicle since I live out in the sticks and am 25 miles from my job.
...Im so glad it's working awesome now. I went to 3 very experienced licensed mechanics and they all said coil pack. It's was just a stroke of luck I found my problem on a Honda accord forum! I probably would have gave up and sold the ranger in the spring. Now I plan on keeping it for a long time. And since it's my " winter vehicle "...it should last me a long time.

 

[Mark_88]

They do? I've been running a 3.0 inch polished stainless steel tube on my intake for 15 years. Also running a Spectre stainless steel mesh cone filter. The intake roar is awesome, louder than the exhaust. The only thing the 3.0 inch tube does is shifts the powerband higher. I would never ever put the stock crap back on mine, threw it in the trash in 2002. I tried putting it on once, and the loss of power was so noticeable, I shit-canned the whole stock contraption.

Never had a code for anything related to the intake except when my fuel pump went bad and threw the lean codes due to lack of fuel pressure. But, mine's a 3.0. Maybe t hat makes a difference.

Like 85_Ranger said it can depend on the setup...

The 3.0 is no exception to that so you obviously did yours right.

 

[cbxer55]

Like 85_Ranger said it can depend on the setup...

The 3.0 is no exception to that so you obviously did yours right.

Or just got lucky. Many variables led to where my Ranger is now. My sister had it for four years and mistreated it royally. When I got it back, the baffles in the exhaust tips were on the verge of blowing out. When they did, I just left it that way. They are twin 3.0 inch tips in front of the passenger wheel. They had internal baffles at one time. Now they just have flat sheet metal plates with a hole in them. I've added additional plates with differing sized holes to tune the back pressure to where I like how it runs. With no muffler, the intake is still louder than the exhaust when the petal is on the floor.

I would liken the power band to that of a two stroke street bike with expansion chambers for exhaust. It's a little boggy at low rpm's, but MAN, when the rpm's are rising, she bloody screams. You can feel it just pulling harder and harder as the rpm's rise.

Only downside, if you wish to call it that, is it doesn't like fuel below 91 octane at all. Personally not a problem to me, neither does my Lightning or my motorcycle. They're both premium only vehicles, so using it in my Ranger is not a thing.

I had a chip on the PCM. But last month I put a new pcm in her, and she doesn't seem to need the chip now. Running better than it's run in years. And prior to the new pcm I had to use 93 octane to keep the pinging at bay. Now it's doing super on 91 octane. Which is a plus since 93 octane is hard to find in Oklahoma. And when you do find it, you'll pay through the nose for it.

 

[cbxer55]

As to the OP's problem. Maybe it's a problem for that particular engine? I put the CAI on my truck within a week of buying it back in 2001. Driven it in practically blizzard like conditions, freezing rain, raining so hard the windshield wipers were practically useless, etc. I don't even have the IAT under the hood, it's up front in the fascia, where it's gotten soaked numerous times. Never had a moments problem with it weather wise. For which I am happy, because I would hate to be limited to the stock intake. On the 3.0 it sucks azz.