Fog Light Power TO Switch Source - Fuse 41?

[cmcolfax]

2011 4.0 5MT

In the under-hood power distribution block, Fuse 41 is a 10-amp fuse that according to the fuse box diagram is for the "Automatic Transmission"

There is a fuse in it.

Since I have the MANUAL transmission, can I use that as a source of switched (ignition on) power to send as "Supply" to a switch in the cab for a set of additional fog lights?

The "Load" side of the switch will run to a 40-amp relay that will receive power from one of the main Positive lugs coming off the battery.

 

[franklin2]

I suppose you could especially since you are only using it to drive a relay. Here is the diagram, and it only goes to the auto trans like you said.

 

[Curious Hound]

That should work well. If you will be using LED fog lights? If so, they may not need a 40amp circuit. You could possibly use that circuit to power the lights also.

Do you already have a set of fog lights installed? Quite often, Ford has the wiring harnesses in place for optional fog lights. In that case, you can use the factory wiring. Just install the relay, connect a switch and connect the lights to the existing harnesses.

 

[cmcolfax]

I suppose you could especially since you are only using it to drive a relay. Here is the diagram, and it only goes to the auto trans like you said.

View attachment 135344

That's what I thought.
Thanks!
It's not really "protecting" anything since I have the manual transmission.
I'm going to piggyback off it with an add-a-fuse and run it to the "supply" terminal on the switch.
Even with whatever it does normally, the amount of current drawn thru the switch to trigger the relay is minimal and will be nowhere near 10-amps.

 

[cmcolfax]

That should work well. If you will be using LED fog lights? If so, they may not need a 40amp circuit. You could possibly use that circuit to power the lights also.

Do you already have a set of fog lights installed? Quite often, Ford has the wiring harnesses in place for optional fog lights. In that case, you can use the factory wiring. Just install the relay, connect a switch and connect the lights to the existing harnesses.

I have the factory clear / white fog lights in the lower valance.

I'm adding a set of old skool amber 6" Hella 500's mounted above the license plate.

They will draw a fair amount of power, and I want them switched independently so this seemed like the best way to go.

 

[Curious Hound]

They will draw a fair amount of power, and I want them switched independently so this seemed like the best way to go.

You are correct.

 

[cmcolfax]

I've actually spent the past three days running wire...

The lighting inside the cab suxors so I added two LEDs in the front kick panels ( by the parking brake and the interior fuse panel) pointing inward and two on the rear wall (where the jump seats were) pointing downward.

I put the provisions in place to add LED bed lights in the future (power to switch, switch to ground, load from switch to back of cab and coiled behind the jack mount).

I'm adding LEDs recessed into the rear bumper, but I wanted them switched independently too, not tied into the regular reverse lights.

The previously mentioned fog lights.

And a stereo upgrade, so power, turn on, and signal wires for a powered 8" sub behind the passenger seat.

Sub signal and turn on run down the center of the floor, under where the console goes; power runs under the driver side doorsill trim then across.
Ground will be one of the former jumpseat seatbelt mount bolts.

I'm doing an Explorer center console swap so I relocated the Traction Control button to where the cigarette lighter was.

I'm using the cigarette lighter circuit (Fuse 29) for the cab and the bed lights since I want them on an ignition on/switched circuit.

I used the satellite radio/console subwoofer amp circuit (Fuse 12) for the bumper lights.
The OE stereo had Sat Radio (but not the sub) so I know that circuit is good and is ignition on switched as well.
I won't need it since the new head unit is using a separate stand alone SXM receiver.

I replaced the 12v Power Point outlet on the dash with a double USB with Voltage readout, then tapped off that and ran new wire to supply the 12v port in the passenger foot well of the Explorer console.

Each of the four "new" switch circuits went to a different ground screw, just because.

The rear bumper lights will be grounded to the bumper individually.

The bed lights will be a common ground (location TBD).

I'm still debating if I am going to ground the fogs independently or back through the relay...


My brain hurts.