This makes the fogs stay on with the brights.
First, I located the relay box. It’s mounted to the same plate that holds the bottom of the airbox. I got into it, and here’s what I found:
1. There are sockets for a total of six relays, two large (the size of a conventional Bosch relay) and four smaller relays, in a 1 2 1 2 configuration. The six sockets were arranged like this, with socket 1 being toward the front of the vehicle:
1
2 3
4
5 6
Socket 1 was empty from the factory.
2. The small type relays in sockets 2 and 3 control the foglamps. Why two relays? One to turn on the foglamps when the parking lamps go on, the second to turn off the foglamps when the high beams come on.
3. By checking the wiring on the back of the relay sockets, I came to the conclusion that relay 2 as shown above turned off the foglamps. Why? It was wired so that power flowed when the relay was _NOT_ energized.
4. The small relays, Ford part number F57B-14B192-AA, SPST relays. There are 5 pins on the relay, laid out as follows:
------- 3
------- 5
| | |
| | |
2 4 1
Pins 3 and 5 are .25" wide; pins 1, 2, and 4 are smaller, about .187".
The corresponding sockets are not numbered at all that I can detect.
5. Relay 2 is wired so that power flows from pin 3 to pin 4 when the relay is not energized. Only when the relay is energized is the power cut off. Power goes from pin 4 of relay 2 to the control circuit side, pin 1, of relay 3. In other words, run a jumper from the furthest away wide socket to the center narrow socket of relay 2, and the foglamps don't go off when the high beams come on.
6. To make the foglamps stay on when the high beams come on, I removed relay 2 and ran a jumper wire from pin 3 to pin 4. Just as simple as that.
7. I made a jumper from 16 ga. wire with a male spade connector on each end. For the wide connector I used 3M from Wal-Mart. For the narrow connector I used Radio Shack #64-3134. I didn't measure, but the assembled length of the whole thing was about 2" to 2.25". Jumpered pin 3 to pin 4 and it works like a charm.