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FM146 to M5OD swap


cubewhiz

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Messages
209
City
Kearny, NJ
Vehicle Year
1989
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
1"
Tire Size
31x10.5R15
I bought a Mazda tranny out of a '96 Ranger 4.0 to replace my destroyed FM146. I will be doing this swap soon, but I want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything so that this will go smoothly.

I need:
- the transmission (M5OD)
- 4.0L flywheel and clutch kit
- 4.0L manual transmission starter
- slave cylinder (I assume same year as the tranny? or does it not matter...)
- 16AWG wire
- 4.0L shift boot
- 4.0L shifter (the one from my FM146 won't fit?)
- 4.0L floor tin
- perhaps a new driveshaft (front or rear?)

The install:
I believe this to be the process, but please let me know if there is more involved here.
1) Disconnect battery.
2) Remove shifter knobs & shifters
3) Undo all wiring to transmission & transfer case
4) Drain transmission & transfer case
5) Remove driveshafts
6) Remove starter & starter plate
7) Support transmission
8) Remove crossmember.
9) Unbolt transmission from engine
10) Lower transmission/t-case.
11) Disconnect tranny from t-case
12) Install in reverse.

Am I on the right track? This will be my first transmission removal/installation. The second will follow on the Jeep with a V8 swap, but that's much later. This comes first.
 
Well if you have the 2.9 the 4.0 clutch kit isn't NEEDED, but it is nice. If you are set on the 4.0 clutch stuff (and I do recommend it) you need a 4.0 starter.

I'd get a M5OD shifter, but the boot should be the same.

Here is instructions for the 145 to M5 swap, Some of it may not pertain to your swap, but it should get you close. Also, measure them both out on the floor. You may or may not need a new drive-shaft.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71203
 
I figure I will replace the clutch anyway. The last clutch only lasted about 2 years, this one is in about 2 years right now. I think driving with a barely functional transmission caused me to eat through them a bit.
 
Oh yea, even if it's only 2 years old, the trouble taking the trans out vs. the cost of a clutch kit, def replace it. I was just saying that the the 2.9 clutch will work with the 4.0 trans too. The 4.0 clutch is far superior though.

You will need the block plate from the 4.0 too. The starter holes are different sizes.

Also you last few steps should look more like this:

8) Disconnect tranny from t-case
9) Remove crossmember.
10) Unbolt transmission from engine
11) Lower transmission/t-case.
12) Install in reverse.

Don't worry about removing the starter block plate until everything else is apart, the fly wheel holds it in place so you won't be able to get it out until the flywheel is off, and you will want to undo the y-pipe at the manifolds before unbolting the trans. It's possible to get it out without undoing the y-pipe, but it is really really tight. Undoing the y-pipe makes it about 500% easier.
 
Last edited:
Something else that helps me if you feel you need to support the tranny do it as you take out the last bolt it will be in the way otherwise.Unless your changing the oil in the transfer case leave the oil in it plug the speedo hole with a rag plug the vent hole with a piece of hose and a bolt.Fill your tranny and transfer case with oil before you put them in so your not on your back with oil going down your arm later.
 
Something else that helps me if you feel you need to support the tranny do it as you take out the last bolt it will be in the way otherwise.Unless your changing the oil in the transfer case leave the oil in it plug the speedo hole with a rag plug the vent hole with a piece of hose and a bolt.Fill your tranny and transfer case with oil before you put them in so your not on your back with oil going down your arm later.

trail, I think I will replace the oil in the transfer case also. It's been over 50000 miles since its last service. Bad cubewhiz! :sad:

Good advice, though. I will be sure to fill it up before I throw it back in.

I'm a little confused, though. Which bolt and what will be in the way? The tranny jack?
 
Looking into clutch kits, I found one that includes a slave cylinder and free shipping for $133.
Will this fit the 89 if the transmission is out of a 96?
Does anybody have any experience with this kit? It seems too good to be true. :dunno:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-9...Accessories&hash=item27b2186547#ht_1122wt_818

All clutch kits include a brand NEW pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing (w/internal slave cylinder if applicable), pilot bearing & alignment tool.ALL clutch kits are sold with the manufacturer warranty of 12 months/12K miles
 
if your going from fm146 to m5od you wont need to modify your drive shafts

You might also need a different drive shaft. If you already have the straight-stick your current shaft will be fine, but if you have the curved one, you need a shorter shaft.

Now I'm confused. :dunno:
 
My statement about the shifter was trying to differentiate transmissions. In the original thread you didn't specify if you had the FM145 or the FM146, which use different shifter sticks and are different lengths.

Dusty is right. Now that we know for sure that you have a 146, we can say that you don't need to change your drive shafts.
 
I just looked back and you are right. I thought I had mentioned which transmission I had but indeed I did not. I thought perhaps there were two different versions of the FM146. Thanks for clearing that up. It is a little bit of a relief and should save me at least a little time and money. :)
 
the fm146 is the same length as a m5od, now if it was the fm145 you'd need to move the tranny crossmember a bit forward
 
Would a used starter hold up okay (out of 96 with about 95K miles) or would I be better off getting a new one?
 
A used starter is will probably be ok. I had 23 years and almost 190K on my original and it was still strong.

One thing I found when I did mine, you can use the 2.9 starter bolts, but you will need to go get a stubby 17mm wrench if you plant to do that. The 2.9 didn't have the cap-brim bolts, and the 4.0 starter is a different shape so the bolt head gets really close to the starter casing. Close enough that you can only get an open-end wrench on it. The other problem I encountered in that area was the frame. It's too close to use a full length wrench. Open-ended stubby 17mm was the only solution I found since I didn't have the 4.0 starter bolts.
 
I'm actually only getting to this (finally) this week. What slave cylinder do I need? Tranny is out of a '96 Ranger 4.0 (M5OD), I have '89 Ranger 2.9 (FM146). I read somewhere that I need a '91-'94 Ranger/Explorer slave. Is that true even for the '96 M5OD?

Thanks.
 

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