Fix several things...and more fails?

[Tedybear]

Back again!

Finally got around to deleting the A/C off the truck, did the valve cover gaskets, air plenum gasket, cap/rotor/wires/all plugs. Everything went smooth...untilll.....

Wife looks under the truck as we needed to relocate the O2 sensor leads. And of course, the transmission cooler line from the radiator is dripping enough to leave a small puddle.

I can get away with replace of the line from the radiator cooler to where the compression fitting is, and that will solve the leak. But I can't for the life of me remember what size that line is???? I'd rather not open the system and take it to the parts house. I'm reduced to working in a barn, and it's mega dusty with old hay and very sandy type dirt. (And you'll not believe the breeze that barn has it in.)

So does anyone know the size of the line that goes into the fitting on the radiator? The radiator has of course a 1" long or so nut thing built into it that has the threads for the cooler line. It's replacing that line (about 4') and doing it the right way....Or slice the compression fitting off and splice a hose and clamp it. (Either way? I need to know the size.) I want to think it's a 7/16" line...but I can't remember? Heck, it could be a metric thread for all I know.

S-

 

[doorgunner]

I cut out the bad section and slightly flared the tubing ends that were attatched to the radiator and the trans........then I installed hi-temp/reinforced/oil resistant rubber hose with 2 hose clamps on EACH end (for safety in case one clamp broke/got loose)...

It's been doing fine for 5 years/tie-wrapped the hose in several places to prevent rub-thru or exhaust heat from damaging it.

 

[Chris_1]

I believe I used 3/8" gas line for that on one of the kid's Rangers. Wasn't a super tight fit (maybe it would be with a flare on the pipe). 7/16" would probably be a tighter fit if you can get it on. Most tranny people suggest bypassing that part of the radiator and just go straight to the tranny cooler and back to the return line (if the rad ever leaks internally it puts antifreeze in the transmission fluid and nothing kills a tranny faster)

 

[Andy D]

Most automatics only use about 25 psi to pump to the cooler. Just about any set up will hold that. Put down some way to contain the drip and take it apart. Splice it best as you can.

As for the rash of things breaking. After 10 yrs/ 100k miles, most cars have issues. People will fix, fix, fix. Something else breaks and the owner snaps and sells the deeply discounted "heap" to somebody like my BIL who fixes the issue and drives a very reliable car for several yrs. FOR PEANUTS!

Unfortunately, whenever I try this, the car crumbles under my touch. I bought the Rat figuring that all it needed was a 30$ clutch plate. 1200$ in parts later...

 

[PanamaExpat]

Welcome to the wonderful world of 20+ year old vehicles.....

 

[Andy D]

Welcome to the wonderful world of 20+ year old vehicles.....

Oh, I know, the Rat is the newest car I have owned so far. I may grouse about the creeping costs, but that goes away when I drive the result. For an old Ford it does OK

 

[wildbill23c]

My B2 was severely neglected by the previous owner, so I got it kind of cheap. Yes its turned into a massive project but eventually I'll get it restored or that's my intent anyways.

As for your tranny cooler lines, I believe were 1/2". Just buy the length of hose you need and install hose clamps. If the hose is a bit hard to get onto the in/out tubes you can stick the end of the hose in hot water to soften the rubber up a bit and make it easier to slip over the tubes.