First round of bug fixes

[tx_pwp5]

Hey guys, I've got a few bugs I'm trying to sort out, and was hoping to get some quick advice since I'm totally new to Fords.

1. Headlights seem dimmer than they should be. They are Sylvania XVs. I put a new XV in hoping they were just old and it was the same. Not terrible, but would like something better if possible.

2. Auxiliary gauge pod by shifter- My amp gauge had condensation in it and always reads pegged, and my oil gauge bounces like crazy. Seems to be reading correctly but bounces so fast it actually makes a noise that is driving me insane.

3. Heater works fine until it gets really cold, then its basically useless. All the coolant and everything looks great, and the heater works fine down to about 40 degrees or so. Anything colder than that and it just blows cold air.

4. I REALLY want to swap in a 17 gallon tank or bigger. Does anyone know if the 17 gallon is a direct swap into the supercab? Or a fuel cell option that would be an easy fix? I'd like to keep as much of the OEM parts & stay away from removing the bed if possible.

Got some more, but I'm trying not to write a book.

Thanks!

 

[RonD]

1. measure voltage at battery when engine is at idle and then at approx. 2,000 RPM, should be 13.5v or higher.
Also pull up to wall or garage door at night to check where beams are pointed.
Are the lens covers "sand blasted" so lowering the lights ability to pass thru the lens.

2. 1987 should have oil pressure switch not a real pressure sender on the engine, although you can convert dash gauge to use a sender
The switch is closed at 6psi pressure, open at 5psi, gauge needle should be steady unless pressure is hoovering between 5 and 6 psi at idle, or unless switch is bad.
The wire to the switch is the Ground wire for the gauge, when the switch closes(6psi and higher) the gauge is now grounded to the block(switch threads) so needle goes up and stays at the same place regardless of RPMs, alternator voltage can effect needle, which is why you want to test voltage at battery.
If you remove the wire from the switch and ground it needle should move up to mid-range, then start engine and change RPMs to see if needle jumps around, if it doesn't then replace switch, it it does then issue is most like in the dash wiring.

Is it an AMP gauge or Voltage gauge?

There should be a Ground strap from the back of the drivers side head to the firewall, this is the main ground for the cab and it's instruments, this can often get loose or left off after engine work, make sure it is there and tight and clean at both ends.
Run a new strap if in doubt, cab and body parts are painted before assembly, and often sit on rubber mounts, so only reliable ground is a strap from engine to cab metal.
Bad grounds can cause a lot of oddball electrical issues.

3. you need to run a 192-195degF thermostat, reads like engine is running too cool which "sounds good" but really isn't, Ford and SAE determined minimum operating temp of 190degF gives best MPG and best oil cleaning(water/fuel vapor burn off) back in the late '70's so Ford switched to the 190degf t-stats then.
People are use to the old 180degF t-stats so often get those by mistake, thinking cooler is better.
But t-stat has nothing to do with overheating, 160/180/190degF t-stats would all be open fully at 200degF so maximum flow would be available for engine cooling, overheating is when engine coolant gets above the 240degF range.
Mid-point on Ford temp gauge is 210degF

It could also be that the heater core is getting clogged up, you could try back flushing the core, easy to do, and you only loose core coolant, so don't need a full change of coolant.
Clogged core means only so much heat can be pulled from the slower flowing hot coolant in core before it cools off, you won't notice it until you need more heat.

My '94 Ranger heater core did this, but it was only $28 for new core and took about 20-30minutes to swap out, not sure what it takes on '87 or costs.

4. check out LCM Truck, and this page: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fr/full.aspx?Page=37
I think you should have 17gal now?

 

[tx_pwp5]

1. measure voltage at battery when engine is at idle and then at approx. 2,000 RPM, should be 13.5v or higher.
Also pull up to wall or garage door at night to check where beams are pointed.
Are the lens covers "sand blasted" so lowering the lights ability to pass thru the lens.

2. 1987 should have oil pressure switch not a real pressure sender on the engine, although you can convert dash gauge to use a sender
The switch is closed at 6psi pressure, open at 5psi, gauge needle should be steady unless pressure is hoovering between 5 and 6 psi at idle, or unless switch is bad.
The wire to the switch is the Ground wire for the gauge, when the switch closes(6psi and higher) the gauge is now grounded to the block(switch threads) so needle goes up and stays at the same place regardless of RPMs, alternator voltage can effect needle, which is why you want to test voltage at battery.
If you remove the wire from the switch and ground it needle should move up to mid-range, then start engine and change RPMs to see if needle jumps around, if it doesn't then replace switch, it it does then issue is most like in the dash wiring.

Is it an AMP gauge or Voltage gauge?

There should be a Ground strap from the back of the drivers side head to the firewall, this is the main ground for the cab and it's instruments, this can often get loose or left off after engine work, make sure it is there and tight and clean at both ends.
Run a new strap if in doubt, cab and body parts are painted before assembly, and often sit on rubber mounts, so only reliable ground is a strap from engine to cab metal.
Bad grounds can cause a lot of oddball electrical issues.

3. you need to run a 192-195degF thermostat, reads like engine is running too cool which "sounds good" but really isn't, Ford and SAE determined minimum operating temp of 190degF gives best MPG and best oil cleaning(water/fuel vapor burn off) back in the late '70's so Ford switched to the 190degf t-stats then.
People are use to the old 180degF t-stats so often get those by mistake, thinking cooler is better.
But t-stat has nothing to do with overheating, 160/180/190degF t-stats would all be open fully at 200degF so maximum flow would be available for engine cooling, overheating is when engine coolant gets above the 240degF range.
Mid-point on Ford temp gauge is 210degF

It could also be that the heater core is getting clogged up, you could try back flushing the core, easy to do, and you only loose core coolant, so don't need a full change of coolant.
Clogged core means only so much heat can be pulled from the slower flowing hot coolant in core before it cools off, you won't notice it until you need more heat.

My '94 Ranger heater core did this, but it was only $28 for new core and took about 20-30minutes to swap out, not sure what it takes on '87 or costs.

4. check out LCM Truck, and this page: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fr/full.aspx?Page=37
I think you should have 17gal now?

A ton of help. Thank you!
I'm going to look into all the electrical stuff you mentioned asap.

The headlights look brand new when compared to the new ones out of the box and with the new one plugged in they are putting out equal beams. Can I measure voltage at the headlight to make sure it is getting enough juice? And what should that reading be? With the brights on they look like everyone elses low beams. I just adjusted them to be a little lower so I could see better. The lowbeams are terrible.

All the checking I have done shows the supercabs all came with a 14.5 gallon tank, and at best I can get about 220 miles per fill-up. I could just crawl under it and measure the dimensions to be sure, I would just need to know what I'm looking for.

Regarding the back flushing, do I just remove both hoses and shove a water hose on the outlet and let it blow everything out the inlet?

The thermostat will be changed asap. I'm only getting about 17-18mpg right now, with a high of 18.5 in Texas and one tank of 19.25 in California. I know that's not terrible, but even .a 5mpg increase adds up over time.

 

[sjr53]

I installed my thermostat in backwards once and had the same cold engine/heater problem. So if your thermostat isn't stuck open, it may be in backwards.

 

[RonD]

After truck has been driven and heater used, pop the hood and feel the 2 heater hoses, the hotter one is the IN from engine, cooler one is OUT to engine.

You want to put garden hose on the OUT connection to push out any bigger debris the way it came in, so back flush against normal flow.

It is good to leave or put hose on the IN connection and point it down at the ground or into a bucket, makes things less messy in engine bay.

If flow is not good then you can mix some CLR or Vinegar in warm/hot water and pour it into the core, then wait 20min. and back flush again, repeat as you see fit.
But I would price out new heater core first to see what your time is worth

 

[Mark_88]

The heater rad is very easy to change on an 87 and you can do that, if needed, in about 15 minutes. But try the backflush as RonD suggested and see if that helps any.

The lights on the 87/88 are all one piece as opposed to the later models that had bulbs. Only problem I found with lights is the wire harness gets really brittle and may be hanging together with very little material...as well, the main power line from the ignition on my 88 was held together by ONE SINGLE copper thread...at the joint just beside the washer reservoir on the driver side...check that connection closely...as well as the one with 10 or 12 wires...the red ones are the headlights...check to see if there are any loose wires there.

Not that a loose wire will cause dim lights...that does sound like battery or possible ground issues...or something may have been spliced in that is robbing the power to the headlights. You can check the voltage at the socket easy enough....just can't remember what they should be (I've recently upgraded the wiring to 96 but pretty sure it is 12v).

There is also a ground wire from that harness on the cross member (both sides) that might be a problem if corroded...

 

[tx_pwp5]

The heater rad is very easy to change on an 87 and you can do that, if needed, in about 15 minutes. But try the backflush as RonD suggested and see if that helps any.

The lights on the 87/88 are all one piece as opposed to the later models that had bulbs. Only problem I found with lights is the wire harness gets really brittle and may be hanging together with very little material...as well, the main power line from the ignition on my 88 was held together by ONE SINGLE copper thread...at the joint just beside the washer reservoir on the driver side...check that connection closely...as well as the one with 10 or 12 wires...the red ones are the headlights...check to see if there are any loose wires there.

Not that a loose wire will cause dim lights...that does sound like battery or possible ground issues...or something may have been spliced in that is robbing the power to the headlights. You can check the voltage at the socket easy enough....just can't remember what they should be (I've recently upgraded the wiring to 96 but pretty sure it is 12v).

There is also a ground wire from that harness on the cross member (both sides) that might be a problem if corroded...

The heater core replacement process being 15 minutes is the best new I've heard in months. I just replaced one on a 93 Isuzu and had to remove the entire dash, all the a/c duct work and everything. It took me two full days to change a $30.00 part.

I'll be checking in to much of this hopefully before traveling for the holidays. So I'll post back with any questions.

Thanks for all your help everyone.

 

[Mark_88]

Very easy on that year. The 96 takes a few hours because the dash needs to come out for the heater rad change...but that is fairly easy compared to two days...not to mention how many extra screws and bolts one would have left over after doing such an extensive R/R...

 

[gandrimp]

For your weak headlights do some searching for a hella conversion kit. I used this one on my 1993 mazda http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-003427811/overview/ . It worked so well I also used the same on my f800. I'll be the first to say "I AM CHEAP" that is, if I can beat my wife to saying it. But this 90 dollars was well spent. I now have lighting as good as our 06 impala.

 

[tx_pwp5]

Very easy on that year. The 96 takes a few hours because the dash needs to come out for the heater rad change...but that is fairly easy compared to two days...not to mention how many extra screws and bolts one would have left over after doing such an extensive R/R...

HA! Funny you mentioned that.... I pulled out somewhere near 140 or so screws/bolts when I did that Isuzu...when I got it all put back together I had 1......ONE!!!!!! stinking bolt left over. Soooooooo extra parts?

 

[tx_pwp5]

For your weak headlights do some searching for a hella conversion kit. I used this one on my 1993 mazda http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-003427811/overview/ . It worked so well I also used the same on my f800. I'll be the first to say "I AM CHEAP" that is, if I can beat my wife to saying it. But this 90 dollars was well spent. I now have lighting as good as our 06 impala.

How was the wiring for this? Seems pretty straight-forward. I was looking into either these or the nighthawks from GE. Anyone use those compared to the Hellas?

 

[gandrimp]

How was the wiring for this? Seems pretty straight-forward. I was looking into either these or the nighthawks from GE. Anyone use those compared to the Hellas?

Its simple. Some say the wires need to be upgraded to a larger size but I did it on neither truck.

 

[Mark_88]

HA! Funny you mentioned that.... I pulled out somewhere near 140 or so screws/bolts when I did that Isuzu...when I got it all put back together I had 1......ONE!!!!!! stinking bolt left over. Soooooooo extra parts?

Well...I used parts from a 92, 88, and 96 and had all three apart at the same time and three or four different bins to keep the parts in order...managed to loose a few things here and there and now need to go back to the junkyard to try to find the parts I lost...lol

Anyway...with one vehicle and not using any interchange of parts it can be done without extras...

I really don't look forward to the day when I need to replace something and have to try to remember what year the part came from...