well, it caught on fire and it burned the kick down cable so we replaced that and it still leaked so we did the pan gasket. we used silicone gasket stuff but im sure it still leaking form the pan.
we never found torque values or a pattern to torque them. so dad wants to do it again i say put silicone on bothe the tranny and pan the do it around the outside just to make sure.
it didnt leak at first we had it on ramps then we backed it back off of em and theen it leaked out and alot of it came out.
any help would be nice, i want the car gone so i can park a ranger in its spot
First off? Buy a replacement pan for the transmission. Reason I say this? Take it off/on a few times and it dimples the crap out of where the bolts go through...and it's almost an art form to reverse punch out those dimples.
The only sealant I'd ever recommend on a pan gasket would be something like an extremely light coating of tack'n seal. You can also get away with a paperthin coating of RTV....but it's risky if any of it breaks off and gets into the filter.
Average torque spec for the pan bolts is about 10-15lbs. Haynes manual should say exactly what the range is, and in some cases pan/filter kits will also list the torque spec as well.
Pattern should also be starting at opposing ends and working it like you'd expect an intake or valve cover gasket.
S-
edit: I'd never suggest using gasket sealer/maker for a transmission pan. The rubber gasket will do the job quite well provided it's installed right. The transmission on our BII? Last owner RTV'ed the tail housing, and didn't get the paper/rubber gasket.. Found RTV 'snot residue' all over the inside where it broke free and plugged things up.
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