Finally, my official project truck

[Ranger850]

315/25/17 in he rear and will be 255's up front
Which brings me to my next question. . I'll be lowering he truck 3/4 or 4/5 But..I do not want to use the flip kit..that little U bracket won't work for what I'll be doing with the truck ..where can I get drop leave springs or what is the other way to lower these trucks?

I believe the expo rear end swap will give about 3" of drop

 

[Junglejoe]

So today I cut the clutch bracket to fit the F550 clutch master, for those who used this setup..where did your line to the slave point? I'm going to have to do a little more cutting in the bracket because I can't get the master to rotate to where the line needs to be pointing down and the bleeder ends up top pointing to the driverside a little..

 

[Jbrown1238]

So today I cut the clutch bracket to fit the F550 clutch master, for those who used this setup..where did your line to the slave point? I'm going to have to do a little more cutting in the bracket because I can't get the master to rotate to where the line needs to be pointing down and the bleeder ends up top pointing to the driverside a little..

When correctly clocked and locked into position the feed line to the clutch slave cylinder should face directly to the passenger side parallel to the ground. If you examine the clutch master cylinder and the bracket you should see how both are keyed.

If you opened the bracket already and possibly lost the the key it originally was in approximately the 2:00 position. When the clutch master cylinder is properly located in place the tab on the interior side should face the 3:00 position.

 

[Junglejoe]

When correctly clocked and locked into position the feed line to the clutch slave cylinder should face directly to the passenger side parallel to the ground. If you examine the clutch master cylinder and the bracket you should see how both are keyed.

If you opened the bracket already and possibly lost the the key it originally was in approximately the 2:00 position. When the clutch master cylinder is properly located in place the tab on the interior side should face the 3:00 position.

Thanks Jeff.. That's what I needed to know

 

[Junglejoe]

Ok.. soI got it mounted correctly I think, but the question now is this. .the bleeder valve is directly on the bottom. .will that be ok?

 

[Jbrown1238]

Ok.. soI got it mounted correctly I think, but the question now is this. .the bleeder valve is directly on the bottom. .will that be ok?

My clutch master cylinder did not have a bleeder valve. Probably a different manufacturer. The one you have should face the top and probably does when fitted to the F550 it was intended for.

Here is how I bleed mine and it works very well once the entire system is complete.

1. Fill system all the way with the clutch slave cylinder detached from its fixed location ( just let it hang by the line).

2. Once it has sat for 5-10 minutes unplug the clutch master cylinder by turning it 1/8 turn counter clock wise.

3. Tip the clutch master cylinder upside down and carefully watch the piston in the clutch slave cylinder.

4. Gently depress the push rod on the clutch master cylinder carefully watching the piston on the clutch slave cylinder. Only depress the pushrod enough to see the piston begin to exit the bore in the clutch slave cylinder.

5. Depress the piston completely, quickly, and with force to push the air back up the line. Watch for bubbles at the reservoir. Make sure you do this with the clutch master cylinder in the upside down position. If done as outlined no air will not get trapped in the clutch master cylinder, it will follow the line up to the reservoir and leave the system.

6. Repeat steps 4&5 at least 10 times while making sure your fluid reservoir remains full. If time allows let everything hang over night keeping the clutch slave cylinder upside down at all times. If time does not permit it should still work fine right away.

7. Return all components to original position.

This should remove all the air from the system and give you a very good pedal feel along with as much travel as possible. I don't even use the bleeder at the clutch slave cylinder any longer.
If air ever enters the system again the entire procedure will need to be repeated.

 

[Junglejoe]

Ok. Yes the hydraulics can be a beech to get all the air out. I just saved that in my notes. I'm not ready to bleed anything.. Just doing a test fit for now in parts. I had to cut the clutch bracket some more..now its good as far as mounting the f550 master,which is a 99 in case anyone wonders..same part for the v10 or 7.3

 

[Junglejoe]

Here is how mine sits..uts from autozone.. I got it the clutch bracket , but the line that will go to the slave cyl. will not face parallel with the ground. I can only rotate it down,which if it rotated the other way would put the line right where it needs to be.. this is looking at it from the front of the engine bay..
It's pointing straight down,where the line will go
Sorry picture is sideways..

And just to clarify. .use the ranger pushrod?

 

[Jbrown1238]

Here is how mine sits..uts from autozone.. I got it the clutch bracket , but the line that will go to the slave cyl. will not face parallel with the ground. I can only rotate it down,which if it rotated the other way would put the line right where it needs to be.. this is looking at it from the front of the engine bay..
It's pointing straight down,where the line will go
Sorry picture is sideways..

And just to clarify. .use the ranger pushrod?

Yep, that sits different then mine. But it should still work fine. Just double check that the tab on the interior side is positioned so that the electrical switch can still snap into place on the push rod assembly and work properly as well as connect to the electrical pig tail.

Yes, use the Ranger push rod.

 

[Jbrown1238]

.

 

[Junglejoe]

I just test fit the safety neutral switch and I have enough room so that I can turn the tab on the clutch master like I had it..where the reservoir line isn't smashed. .I'm good to go on that test run.

 

[Jbrown1238]

Good deal!

 

[Junglejoe]

Got out in the garage on this nice warm 50degree day and did some mock up to see first hand how these motors fit in here,being my first v8 ranger..first ranger ever to be honest!
I built several v8 s10's over the years , that they got old and are a dime a dozen.. so.. I like the way things fit in the trucks! I'm basing mine off of JBROWNS build..just not in the same ball park as his. It's a master piece!
Oil pan is real close..I'll probably add some spacers ,once I get the shroud and fan on and get the engine where it will be permanently sitting
Have a look..just checking things..all this will come back out and my blown 331 will set in the bay..

 

[Jbrown1238]

Looks real good sitting in there. Although your oil pan clearance looks very close to what I have I would still clearance a little more room there. Mine has been fine for 200,000 miles but there hasn't been any hard launches on sticky tires. I have a feeling that won't be the same for you. : )

 

[Junglejoe]

Yes,its a little to close for my comfort. Although this truck will be my everyday driver travel truck.. You know I'm hunting that low 11 second time slip .. It will happen just once.then it will never see the 'track'again"
What amazed me was when I set the mock up short block down in there.. Then bolted the transsmision up.. It did not squat one bit!