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Finally have to pull the trans.


The bung is the round threaded part the o2 sensor screws into. A muffler shop should have those in stock. The bung is about 1/4" bigger than the hole.

Yeah, a "welded in" fitting. Last time I went to one of the chains, mabe midus, they wouldn't do piece work. They wanted to weld in the whole section....the wouldn't even flange it, as it is. Just weld the whole thing with only one flange at the header. That why I called around a couple speed shops, they'd do it... expensive. I haven't found the old shops that we used to have. All regulation and insurance.

I didn't call every shop in the city tho... maybe 5-6. I could try calling again, I guess. Still 100 miles plus, if I can find one.
 
I will call around again, but you guys don't think taping it has any chance of working or holding up?
 
Tape? You mean like Teflon tape? No... No chance of holding up.

If you're going to end up replacing the pipe and sensor anyway JB weld will probably hold as long as at least a couple threads are still good. There is no pressure there but obviously it gets extremely hot. Just don't let the goo get on the actual sensor tip.
 
Tape? You mean like Teflon tape? No... No chance of holding up.

If you're going to end up replacing the pipe and sensor anyway JB weld will probably hold as long as at least a couple threads are still good. There is no pressure there but obviously it gets extremely hot. Just don't let the goo get on the actual sensor tip.

Using a tap & dye set to clear the threads? Tapping the hole? Sorry, type-O.

It's a three year old Magnafow, the one before lasted 15 years. I'd prefer to keep it. I paid $230 for it, now they're nearly $500.
 
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You're looking at a) having a new bung welded on, or b) replacing the cat.

Looking at it that way, I'd be tempted to try a tap, if you can get one the right diameter and thread pitch. If you're able to fix it, great; if not, you're back where you started.

Finding a muffler or welding shop replace a bung didn't used to be that difficult.
 
You're looking at a) having a new bung welded on, or b) replacing the cat.

Looking at it that way, I'd be tempted to try a tap, if you can get one the right diameter and thread pitch. If you're able to fix it, great; if not, you're back where you started.

Finding a muffler or welding shop replace a bung didn't used to be that difficult.

I'm definitely going to call around again and see if somebody will do it. I'll put it in my hatchback and drive into the city if I have to but I'd rather not, so I'm wondering if I should attempt to tap the hole. Like you said tho...I'd have to verify the thread pitch....maybe call Magnafow and find out. On Rock Auto it's listed as 18mm, but the pitch isn't listed. The most common pitch for that size is 1.5. Pretty course, which they look as they are.
 
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Using a tap & dye set to clear the threads? Tapping the hole? Sorry, type-O.

I'll go sit in the corner now... :icon_rofl:
 
I'll go sit in the corner now... :icon_rofl:

I have never used a tap, an easy-out once or twice....a reverse thread drill bit for small stuff, never a tap, so I thought I'd ask what y'all thought from seeing the photo of the theads. They look practically welded. I certainly have doubts a tap will do it.
 
upstream-o2.jpg


There is one midas at the edge of the city outskirts. I'll call them Monday. Only a 60 miles drive. Bad traffic tho....
 
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Can't rent one that big. Harbor Freight has a set with 18mm x 1.5 and 2.5 pitch. $89, lot of money for something that may not work.
 
If you try it, just go slow and don't force the tap too much. Use oil on the tap, and occasionally reverse the tap (i.e.- back and forth).

What I don't like, in the picture, is that it looks like there's displaced metal sticking out into the the hole's bore, past the inside of the remaining good thread. That material will have to be removed in the thread cutting process, so it'll take some extra care.

>>>> BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, take a good pick tool and pick and pry on that metal. Make sure it's not just metal from the sensor. You might just have good threads under that metal. I just can't tell, from your picture.

I hope that you score on the Midas, or some other shop. Like I said, it's worth the try if you have the tap, but having a new bung welded on is going to be your best shot.
 
If you try it, just go slow and don't force the tap too much. Use oil on the tap, and occasionally reverse the tap (i.e.- back and forth).

What I don't like, in the picture, is that it looks like there's displaced metal sticking out into the the hole's bore, past the inside of the remaining good thread. That material will have to be removed in the thread cutting process, so it'll take some extra care.

>>>> BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, take a good pick tool and pick and pry on that metal. Make sure it's not just metal from the sensor. You might just have good threads under that metal. I just can't tell, from your picture.

I hope that you score on the Midas, or some other shop. Like I said, it's worth the try if you have the tap, but having a new bung welded on is going to be your best shot.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try a pick. I did check the feel from the downsteam sensor....not even a little. Didn't try with any force, and got nowhere fast.
 
I was able to knock out about a quarter of the thread with a small screwdriver and a hammer. I ordered the thread chaser above. Options.
 

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