Finally have to pull the trans.

[Dirtman]

I've broken 2, 3/8s swivels in the last couple years trying to break torque, so I don't use them for that any more. My 1/2" swivel won't fit in there. I'm just going to pick up the other wrenches in the morning...see what happens.

That impact swivel is much stronger. I broke a Craftsman and a Proto swivels.

Get a pinless swivel adapter. They are ALOT stronger than regular swivels.

 

[bobbywalter]

Where are you located?

 

[9723]

Where are you located?

I'm in a rural area 45-50 miles North of San Antonio. It took 8 days to get these two wrenches I ordered...picking up tomorrow morning.

 

[9723]

Get a pinless swivel adapter. They are ALOT stronger than regular swivels.

That's identical to my swivel extentions, except the 3" is the shortest one I have.

 

[bobbywalter]

Balls ....


No plans to be near there this year....but I love the riverwalk .


No other members close? 66 years young.....nice to have a hand ...

 

[9723]

Balls ....


No plans to be near there this year....but I love the riverwalk .


No other members close? 66 years young.....nice to have a hand ...

I have to do things by myself. It's a thing...an accomplishment. The help I'm getting here is all I need!

 

[9723]

I go to pick up my wrenches at home depot at 6am. The gear head is in the locker. Yes, but not any longer than a typical combo. The extra long double box-end wrench is at the service desk. They hand me a can of lime wash. DO NOT trust home depot for anything important. So what, another week or longer if I can't break the torque with this wrench? I got an 8" pipe that I'll have to squash to make it fit on the wrench. At least I have a propane torch to heat it, but galvanized pipe is pretty tough. Home Depot is incompetent. I don't have time for stupid, like that.

I could've bought a "set" of impact, swivel sockets. $75. I don't think so.

 

[RobbieD]

That sucks; sorry to hear that you had trouble with the order. For what it's worth, some of the handiest homemade tools I have are assorted sections of pipe, some flattened, to fit on wrenches and ratchets as a "torque amplifier".

Hang in there, you'll get it done.

 

[pjtoledo]

like alwaysfloored said, use one wrench to extend the other. get creative with what tools you do have.
if you remove the shifter floor plate can you access the top bolts thru that hole?

 

[9723]

like alwaysfloored said, use one wrench to extend the other. get creative with what tools you do have.
if you remove the shifter floor plate can you access the top bolts thru that hole?

Yes, I've know how to do this for many years, but if you aren't in the best circumstances they'll slip. This is far from an applicable situation for that technique, but I appreciate the suggestion. What do you mean, remove the shifter floor plate? Mine isn't bolted down, it's glued. The image was before I removed the shifter. ...or do you mean remove the tunnel?

 

[9723]

I managed getting the engine lower. I had to move this vacuum line so I wouldn't crush it. Low enough to get a socket and extensions on the top bolt.

I got two bites on it with a 12 point socket. One with all 3/8s extensions. And again with 1, 3/8" 12 point socket and extension and the rest, 3, 1/2 extensions. 1 short, 2 long. That puts me near the back end of the trans, where I've got enough room to put the most twist into it. Both times I put everything I had into twisting and got nowhere. I'm surprised I didn't break the 3/8s to 1/2 adapter. I was using my large 20" torque wrench set at 135 ft.lbs....just because that's where it was. I didn't get to the click point, but I got a lot of foot pounds on it. At least 100. The only thing else I've got is a true 1/2" breaker bar. I didn't try it....cause without a ratchet it's hard to get it in the right position. I think tho....if I put any more on it, I'll break that adapter, so I need something else.

The bolt is welded to the engine.

As suggested, can my shift covered (glued and stapled in place) be removed so I can access the upper bolts more directly...and then glue it back in effectively?

 

[Paulos]

I have an older Ranger with the 2.9. I always do as you just did, but I have a distributor cap that I have to remove so the engine will lower enough. Then I use three long 1/2" extensions and a 6-point socket for the top bolts. Needless to say, anti-seize on the threads upon reinstallation. I also put a bottle jack under the vibration dampener to keep the motor in that position in case it wants to move after the trans has been removed.

I like your idea and custom work on the trans adapter plate on the jack, but it didn't look like it would work well with the angle of the trans. I suppose you could just tilt the trans on the plate, or place a wedge of some sort at the front of the trans when you pull/install it.

The part with the vacuum line that you removed looks like an EGR valve.

 

[pjtoledo]

can't vouch for a 1997, but this is what a 1998 floor looks like. had a big removable plate around the shifter.

then I got a little too ambitious with the saw-zall.......

 

[9723]

Haha, I'm not going there, but I'll look underneath to see if the staples go through. I think I'm going to have to remove the shift cover. At the very least....pb blaster, tapping to bolts to get them loose and/or a wrench from up there.
I may buy a 1/2" drive, 13mm impact swivel.

...but if it comes down to it and I can get to those two top bolts at the shift cover, I'm not opposed to drilling the heads off those bolts. Hopefully not, but if necessary I will. I do have a 12v, 90 degree DeWalt drill.

 

[9723]

I ordered a 1/2" drive, 13mm impact swivel. I may only use it once so I got a cheap one, $12. A Sunex...could've spent up to$3 on one. I'll probably try it first, before removing my sift cover....unless it looks easy to do.

I think using all 1/2" socket and extensions will flex much less.