FEandGoingBroke here under alias Ranger Clutch

[twennydollabill]

Folks, I guess I should start off saying how much I HATE having to create a new effing Name every time I visit because there's no lost password crap for me to fill out... None, just keep trying and my saved passwords no longer worked and I was locked out...

OK now for the meat of the situation.

86 Ranger XLT 2.9 5 speed. Put in new clutch last year, burning from the very start, weak ass pressure plate, clutch effort is soft butter, it takes less pressure than my baby ford Festiva clutch. Angry moments, babied the clutch and got a full warranty replacement and put it in a couple days ago, ALL new clutch pressure plate and flywheel For the second time.... This thing will not let me buffer the clutch for more than about two seconds while holding the truck steady at the end of my very nearly flat driveway and it starts burning. I DETEST this damn thing....

So whom out there can recommend a STRONG clutch one with a pressure plate that has some effing MEAT to it and a good strong clutch disc? My baby had a birthday just turned 66,666.6 miles three days ago

 

[Ranger850]

try writing your password on a sticky note and put it on the monitor.

 

[fastpakr]

There's a 'forgot your password' link next to the password field.

 

[Ranger850]

I just put the shortcut to the toolbar and never have to log in again. It just pops up when I click it.

 

[scotts90ranger]

There's a few options for a clutch, you can put in a 4.0L clutch and flywheel on a 2.9L but it takes a different starter for the bigger flywheel I think... there's likely something on that around somewhere...

For a nice stock replacement clutch I bought a Centerforce stock replacement friction disc and the pressure plate with the weights, it's been going strong for years with plenty of abuse, feels fine and has control but grabs nice and hard with the weights... It's like double the price of a normal clutch but I've liked it...

 

[RonD]

Welcome back to TRS

Are you having the flywheel surfaced when redoing the clutch, if flywheel is "glazed" from previous "burning clutch disc" then new disc and pressure plate won't help, it will still slip like crazy on the "glass surface" of flywheel

There are two kinds of pressure plates
Regular
Self adjusting(SAC)

Self adjusting costs a bit more but worth every penny, in my opinion

Regular pressure plate looks like this: https://www.bielstein.com/media/image/product/11238/lg/clutch-pressure-plate-200-mm.jpg

Self adjusting looks like this: http://cdn.nexternal.com/uuc/images/CLUTCH_LUK_SAC.jpg
You can see the 3 springs around the center forks
These small springs MOVE the pressure plate closer and closer to the flywheel as clutch disc gets thinner from normal wear, so "self adjusts"


I have used LUK parts for clutches, over many years and vehicles, no complaints

 

[twennydollabill]

There's a 'forgot your password' link next to the password field.

There was Definitely NO forgot password when I was doing this through my phone, and my FEandGoingBroke saved password don't work, but today on my PC there WAS a forgot password link for FE, but this one popped up first and was saved

 

[twennydollabill]

Welcome back to TRS

Are you having the flywheel surfaced when redoing the clutch, if flywheel is "glazed" from previous "burning clutch disc" then new disc and pressure plate won't help, it will still slip like crazy on the "glass surface" of flywheel

There are two kinds of pressure plates
Regular
Self adjusting(SAC)

Self adjusting costs a bit more but worth every penny, in my opinion

Regular pressure plate looks like this: https://www.bielstein.com/media/image/product/11238/lg/clutch-pressure-plate-200-mm.jpg

Self adjusting looks like this: http://cdn.nexternal.com/uuc/images/CLUTCH_LUK_SAC.jpg
You can see the 3 springs around the center forks
These small springs MOVE the pressure plate closer and closer to the flywheel as clutch disc gets thinner from normal wear, so "self adjusts"


I have used LUK parts for clutches, over many years and vehicles, no complaints

That's the ticket! I need a counter weight version. My first clutch lasted forever never burnt. These two clutches will burn off sitting at idle holding the truck in position at a light. The clutch discs are made of fairy dust.... And the pressure plates are the lightest I've ever felt on ANY car I've ever owned. My parts guy is going to refund me everything once I find a better setup to use without having to modify the starter.
I purchased a brand new heavy duty clutch and Flywheel when this powder puff happened....

 

[twennydollabill]

Welcome back to TRS



Regular pressure plate looks like this: https://www.bielstein.com/media/image/product/11238/lg/clutch-pressure-plate-200-mm.jpg

Self adjusting looks like this: http://cdn.nexternal.com/uuc/images/CLUTCH_LUK_SAC.jpg
You can see the 3 springs around the center forks

heres mine The fingers are different than the photo you showed me in your stock version, but Identical to what I removed both times.

 

[fastpakr]

There was Definitely NO forgot password when I was doing this through my phone, and my FEandGoingBroke saved password don't work, but today on my PC there WAS a forgot password link for FE, but this one popped up first and was saved

 

[RonD]

I wasn't showing Ranger pressure plates, just the differences in regular or self adjusting, the 3 small springs

The one you show is regular, no springs

Clutch pedal should be easy to push down, its hydraulic, shouldn't feel much difference from one pressure plate to the next

With regular pressure plate and new disc the pedal will be down at the floor to disengage and engage
Then as disc wears down the disengage/engage will move farther and farther up in pedal travel until its at the top and it starts to slip

Self adjusting keeps the disengage/engage at the lower middle of pedal travel for the life of the disc

 

[twennydollabill]

my Iphone definitely did Not give me that option, it only came up when I used my PC. Otherwise I'd have had my password changed in seconds and been FEandGoingBroke again.

 

[twennydollabill]

I wasn't showing Ranger pressure plates, just the differences in regular or self adjusting, the 3 small springs

The one you show is regular, no springs

Clutch pedal should be easy to push down, its hydraulic, shouldn't feel much difference from one pressure plate to the next

With regular pressure plate and new disc the pedal will be down at the floor to disengage and engage
Then as disc wears down the disengage/engage will move farther and farther up in pedal travel until its at the top and it starts to slip

Self adjusting keeps the disengage/engage at the lower middle of pedal travel for the life of the disc

My clutch engages and disengages about 5 inches or more off the floor, I push my clutch in about 1" for complete disengagement. It's always been like this since I got it 6 years ago.