Fabbing motor mounts

[Roger]

OK, this has been a project too long in the planning, though it will be easier to finish before the cab goes back on Warthog.

Original style mounts for the Ford 2.3 are garbage. Didn't even last 2 years for these replacements.

And the low tech vibe damper just wasn't cutting it... And its nice to know that the crossmember in the pic is GONE and that old Skyjacker bracket is gone too. All replaced with Tuff Country drop brackets and extended radius arms.

The plan has changed about a dozen times. But I finally figured how I'm going to do this. A mix between easy for me to do and what SHOULD hold up well. In the pic below are the parts and the rough layout. On the left is the motor side plate. The tabs will be cut down some and welded to the motor side plates. Next is the bushing which will fit in the tabs. The 2x2 tubing will be cut down to about 1.5" tall pieces and reliefs cut to fit the bushing sleeves. And those in turn will be welded to the frame side plates.

Too bad I don't have access to tools like I did at my last job. There I had metal cutting bandsaws, lathes, chopsaw, bead blast cabinet, paint booth, hydraulic press. And there was a complete machine shop I could use from time to time.

I know at least one person really interested in me getting this done soon. Can't believe I bought those bushings and tabs 11 months ago from http://www.suicidedoors.com.

Soon as I get this projects done, I should be able to get the cab back on the frame...

 

[Dave R]

This should be interesting once you get further along. It's a bit tough to follow, from your description, what your going to end up with.

Have you thought about just making a urethane replacement?

 

[Roger]

Between the tabs, bushing sleeve and the relief cut 2x2 tubing, the stack needs to be 3" tall. Thats how tall the stock style mounts are. I MIGHT go to 3.5" though, since I'm going to modify the trans crossmember (the bushing style that sits outside the frame rails, I want to cut the bushings out and bolt the xmember to the bottom of the frame).

Nice part of this motor mount setup is that I can replace the bushings when they fail for a lot less money, and simple 1 bolt per side to remove. Not seen in the bottom pic, the tab on the other side of the bushing, the tabs will be welded to the plate. As mentioned, I'll cut the 2x2 down and weld the open end to the flat of the frame side motor mount. And in the other end of the 2x2, a semi-circle (relief) cut for the bushing outer sleeve to fit into and welded together. I'll get the tabs welded to the motor side mounts and then tack the squared tube to the frame side plates when the motor is in the truck. Lift the mounts out so I can finish weld.

Photochop of what I mean...

Not to scale by any measure... But you get the idea. Use what I have, mix in what I need.

 

[Dave R]

Ah, now I see what your up to.

Interesting idea.

You are going to brace the short bit of 2x2 against transverse movement, I hope. Highly recommended unless they end up only being about .250" tall.

I'm presuming that the bushings are polyurethane and are a semi-press fit in the steel tube and that there is another sleeve on the ID of the bushings, yes?

 

[Roger]

Bingo. The 2x2 will have the sleeve off the plate by about an inch, and I will will trim the tabs down to keep a 3-3.5" stack height.

All I know is, these will be easier to replace than stock style. And yes, the bushings are poly. Go check them at suicidedoors.com... $10 for 2"...

 

[Rocky Ranger]

Here are two links for polyurathane stuff. Sorry, I didn't find motor mounts

http://www.prothane.com/index.html
http://www.energysuspension.com/index.html
I replaced one on my '95 and it is the same mount as the f-150 I snagged this off of CSK auto.com link at bottom
Anchor Mount: Part Number: 2698
This product fits the following vehicles - click on a vehicle to see detailed engine information.

FORD back to top
1989 - 1992 BRONCO
1989 - 1993 F-350 PICKUP

1989 - 1993 F-150 PICKUP
1985 - 1997 RANGER

1989 - 1993 F-250 PICKUP
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=ANH&mfrpartnumber=2698



MAZDA back to top
1994 - 1997 B2300

 

[Roger]

I used the anchor mounts for the 2.3 Ranger. They didn't last. I need somethign to last, and be easy to change out when they do fail. I t is a pain to pull 12 or bolts and 4 plates out to change the mounts. Using the poly bushings I'm using, will be a simple 2 bolt swap.

So far, I'm into this project for about $55, or about $13 more than ONE stock style crappy mount.

 

[Rocky Ranger]

I see what your saying, Unbolting it wasnt the problem for me, it was when the hot oil that was left in the mount spilling on me when I unbolted it is what pissed me off...
I looked back over your pictures and it looks like you got it figured out. Nice job!

 

[Dave R]

All I know is, these will be easier to replace than stock style. And yes, the bushings are poly. Go check them at suicidedoors.com... $10 for 2"...

Hmm, $10 for 2 bushings and both sleeves? Not bad at all.

 

[Roger]

$10 for each bushing set. Sorry, but I meant they are 2" outside diameter 1/4" thick DOM. The inner sleeve uses 9/16" bolts. I need to run down to Fastenal and get a couple proper bolts. The tabs are also 1/4" and I think about $5 each. Suicidedoors also has other stuff, but their link tubes are only 1.5" OD or 2"x2" square. Fine for lowered/airbagged trucks, but the 1.5" seems a bit wimpy for lower links. I think I will order their wishbone kit when I link the rear of this truck. $90 and I have to put it all together.

But yes, the $10 bushings are what led me to look at Suicidedoors...

 

[Roger]

Just closing threads out... See the finished product here...