'tis true. I just have a friend that has material on most companies springs. His book only shows one PPI for Trail-Master. but like we said, still to stiff regardless.
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Extremely Harsh Ride
- Thread starter Gacknar
- Start date
'tis true. I just have a friend that has material on most companies springs. His book only shows one PPI for Trail-Master. but like we said, still to stiff regardless.
Gacknar
Well-Known Member
Took the front anti-sway bar off and went for a short drive. That seems to have made a large difference in the front. Boy is that STX High-Ryder bar thick! It makes the one that was on my FullSize Bronco look really thin.
We will see how it does on the Interstate tomorrow on the way to work.
I also unbolted the rear shocks and gave the rear end a few pushes. The spring did not seem that stiff without the shocks. So... I took it for a short drive.
Other than the back feeling like a boat, it felt way better. That is until I went down a gravel road. You could tell the the back tires where bouncing off the bumps from a lack of dampening, this was of course expected. That, and the rear shocks are helping to control spring wrap, and oh boy was it bad without them.
We will see how it does on the Interstate tomorrow on the way to work.
I also unbolted the rear shocks and gave the rear end a few pushes. The spring did not seem that stiff without the shocks. So... I took it for a short drive.
Other than the back feeling like a boat, it felt way better. That is until I went down a gravel road. You could tell the the back tires where bouncing off the bumps from a lack of dampening, this was of course expected. That, and the rear shocks are helping to control spring wrap, and oh boy was it bad without them.
Gacknar
Well-Known Member
The front is definitely better without the sway bar. Pot holes are a whole new world, but things that hit both fronts at the same time feel the same.
(As would be expected)
I also found out that the Pro-Comp ES-1000s that are on it, that seem so stiff, are the same units listed for a FullSize Bronco. A "One Valving fits all" approach to shocks apparently. I find it hard to believe that a 3,500lb Ranger needs the same valving as a 6,000lb Bronco.
So, I am going to do an experiment on the rear.
I am going to install the 4100 shackles from AutoZone, and remove the Trail-Master lift block. Hopfully this will keep about the same height, and reduce axle wrap. The longer shackle should increase the leverage on the spring, effectively lowering the spring rate slightly.
For the rear shocks, I got on Monroe's site today and found out that a Super Duty 250 uses a shock that is the correct length and uses eyes at both ends. The Monroe GasMatic LT's have a very soft compression valving (Notoriously soft for there application) and they only cost $25 a piece. If the valving is to soft or stiff, I can return them.
So, where gonna give this a try and see what happens.
If the spring rate is still to high, I may try to build a bastard pack.
So...
Opinions, comments?
I kinda feel like I'm talking to myself in this thread
(As would be expected)
I also found out that the Pro-Comp ES-1000s that are on it, that seem so stiff, are the same units listed for a FullSize Bronco. A "One Valving fits all" approach to shocks apparently. I find it hard to believe that a 3,500lb Ranger needs the same valving as a 6,000lb Bronco.
So, I am going to do an experiment on the rear.
I am going to install the 4100 shackles from AutoZone, and remove the Trail-Master lift block. Hopfully this will keep about the same height, and reduce axle wrap. The longer shackle should increase the leverage on the spring, effectively lowering the spring rate slightly.
For the rear shocks, I got on Monroe's site today and found out that a Super Duty 250 uses a shock that is the correct length and uses eyes at both ends. The Monroe GasMatic LT's have a very soft compression valving (Notoriously soft for there application) and they only cost $25 a piece. If the valving is to soft or stiff, I can return them.
So, where gonna give this a try and see what happens.
If the spring rate is still to high, I may try to build a bastard pack.
So...
Opinions, comments?
I kinda feel like I'm talking to myself in this thread
Last edited:
Gacknar
Well-Known Member
Removed the rear sway bar, installed the 4100 shackles and removed the Trail-Master block. Removed the Trail-master "Hydro" shocks and installed a set of Monroe Gasmatic LT's. (Part Number was for a Super Duty)
Spring wrap is greatly reduced, Ride is Firm, not harsh. And I gained 1/4" ride height on the rear (It may settle out)
I am pleased! It rides like a truck, not a go Kart.
I even ran it down a gravel road at 30-60mph. The only time it had a problem was over "WashBoard"... But I have never drove anything that did not float over washboard.
Spring wrap is greatly reduced, Ride is Firm, not harsh. And I gained 1/4" ride height on the rear (It may settle out)
I am pleased! It rides like a truck, not a go Kart.
I even ran it down a gravel road at 30-60mph. The only time it had a problem was over "WashBoard"... But I have never drove anything that did not float over washboard.
Gacknar
Well-Known Member
New shackles.
No more lift block. (Just the factory STX block).
No more lift block. (Just the factory STX block).
Gacknar
Well-Known Member
Oh, and here is a poser shot from today!
armadillon
Well-Known Member
Dammit, I wish my truck was black. Glad you've made it much nicer. I certainly like it now that the lift block is out. The only thing I was ever in that floated over washboard was a 70s Buick Electra.
Gacknar
Well-Known Member
Maybe "Float" is not the term I meant to use.
What happens on washboard is the axles set up an oscillation where they are only touching the front side of the mounds and bouncing over the rest. You lose a lot of control and the truck is shaking so bad that it feels and sounds like it is going to brake something.
So yea, Maybe "Bounce" over washboard would be a better description.
Gacknar
Well-Known Member
Well I did more research on Monroe's web site and found a set of GasMatic LT shocks that should fit the front of a Ranger with 4"-6" lift. Oddly the application was for the rear of a Kia These shocks made a big difference in how the rear rides, and they only cost $24.00 each 
I got them Saturday, but I have not been able to install them yest. I'll let you know the results when I get them on.
These shocks made a big difference in how the rear rides, and they only cost $24.00 each I got them Saturday, but I have not been able to install them yest. I'll let you know the results when I get them on.
Gacknar
Well-Known Member
I finally installed them.
OMG, they made a huge difference!
The front soaks up bumps like they are not there!
Gacknar
Well-Known Member
Well I've been driving it every day for several months. I am very happy with the results, for less than $150 I completely changed the ride. The Ranger rides far softer than it did. The front rides as soft as a factory 2x4 Ranger of a similar year, and the rear is a little firmer than a factory Ranger of the same year, but not to bad. The rear is stiff due to the add-A-leaf in the spring pack.
Here is a summary.
Vehicle
1989 Ranger STX Highrider with a 4" Trail Master lift modified to 5.5"-6" (+/-) with Pro-Comp ES-1000 Hydraulic (Not Gas Charged) shocks.
What I did
Removed both sway bars.
Replace stock shackle with 4100 shackle from AutoZone.
Removed lift block (Leaving factory block)
Replaced rear shocks with Monroe Gasmatic LT's of the correct length and stud eye configuration. The application was for a Super Duty. These shocks all use the same valving, so no matter what the application the valving is the same. These shocks are very lightly valved, especially in compression. Most of the valving is in rebound. They also have grooves in the shock body at ride height that act as a partial bypass at that height.
Replaced front shocks with Monroe Gasmatic LT's of the correct length and stud eye configuration. The application was for the rear of a Kia. See above about valving.
Pros
Much improved ride. No more bone jarring or teeth rattling over small bumps in the road. Rides similar to stock suspension, and far better than most lifted 4x4s.
Cons
It does have some body roll in turns now. It's not bad, I would call it average for a normal truck. But not like before where it would literally lift the tires before the suspension would tilt.
The front bottoms out on jumps. Yes I jump it occasionally, and now that the front can actually move I need to lower the bump stops to keep this from happening. Extended radius arms would also solve the problem since the tire is contacting the rear edge of the fender due to the short arc of the radius arms. But that's not in the budget right now.
Now that the front can move independently of each other, I get some bumpsteer. Before my next alignment I will get the longer SkyJacker pitman arm to solve this.
Hope this helps somebody else out
Here is a summary.
Vehicle
1989 Ranger STX Highrider with a 4" Trail Master lift modified to 5.5"-6" (+/-) with Pro-Comp ES-1000 Hydraulic (Not Gas Charged) shocks.
What I did
Removed both sway bars.
Replace stock shackle with 4100 shackle from AutoZone.
Removed lift block (Leaving factory block)
Replaced rear shocks with Monroe Gasmatic LT's of the correct length and stud eye configuration. The application was for a Super Duty. These shocks all use the same valving, so no matter what the application the valving is the same. These shocks are very lightly valved, especially in compression. Most of the valving is in rebound. They also have grooves in the shock body at ride height that act as a partial bypass at that height.
Replaced front shocks with Monroe Gasmatic LT's of the correct length and stud eye configuration. The application was for the rear of a Kia. See above about valving.
Pros
Much improved ride. No more bone jarring or teeth rattling over small bumps in the road. Rides similar to stock suspension, and far better than most lifted 4x4s.
Cons
It does have some body roll in turns now. It's not bad, I would call it average for a normal truck. But not like before where it would literally lift the tires before the suspension would tilt.
The front bottoms out on jumps. Yes I jump it occasionally, and now that the front can actually move I need to lower the bump stops to keep this from happening. Extended radius arms would also solve the problem since the tire is contacting the rear edge of the fender due to the short arc of the radius arms. But that's not in the budget right now.
Now that the front can move independently of each other, I get some bumpsteer. Before my next alignment I will get the longer SkyJacker pitman arm to solve this.
Hope this helps somebody else out
Last edited:
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