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Extended cab 7 ft Bed


fabman_52

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
123
City
Corbin Kentucky
Vehicle Year
1990 & 1987
Transmission
Manual
Hi Guy's and Gals,

OK, I need everyone to put on your thinking caps. Heres what I need to do. I want to put a service box from a single cab 92 Ranger onto an extended cab 1990, essentially a 7ft box on an extended cab frame. From all that I have read it looks like I have to add 6 in. extension into the frame. Does anyone know if that is correct or not?
Thanks Ahead for any and all info.
George.
 
Then yes, you would need to extend the frame.

I think somewhere I read that cutting and welding a patch thats V shaped (not V but > ) is strongest. No idea really.
 
Hi Koda'

Thanks, I have the fab part down, been doin fab work for almost 40 yrs. Journeyman with the United Steel Workers of America. What I need to know is how much metal do I have to add. I believe it to be 6". Just lookin for some verification. Just to cold for my old a.. to climb under there in the Mi. outdoors!
 
6" will do it, but you'll also need 6" in the rear for the bumper if your using one.

Also there is no factory driveshaft that will bolt up, it'll have to be made too.

What are you going to do with the park brake cables?

Since you are adding more weight and need for more spring, have you considered the 64" Chevy spring swap? But instead of what everyone else is doing, I'd recommend the 88-98 3/4 ton springs, it's all the same other than the spring rates and they use 9/16" bolts instead of 1/2".
 
My bumper came with the extensions. I can build my own drive shaft and just send it our for balance. As far as the brake cables I have a friend that owns a custom hydraulic line and cable company, so I have that covered. Just needed to know if the 6" was right.
Thanks a Million, George
 
The difference between the short and long beds is the lenght... duh. The catch is that the wheel wells are centered in both beds so you would need to stretch the frame in 2 places, in front of and behind the axle.
 
extend your frame at the back, not in the middle. then move the spring perches back to center the rear axle in the wheelwell. heck, IIRC, bolting chevy springs in your stock front hangar will move your wheelbase back 6", then you just have to move the rear shackle hangar.

much less work this way since all you have to do is tag more on the end, instead of cutting your truck in half, and welding an extension at 4 points.

sounds like you are going to work this truck hard, you don't want a potential weak point in the middle of the truck.
 
im planning on doing this to my 94 xcab but w/ a stock longbed,any body know if the first few bolt holes match from short bed to long bed?

my plan was to do the chevy spring swap,add to the rear of the frame .
 
extend your frame at the back, not in the middle. then move the spring perches back to center the rear axle in the wheelwell. heck, IIRC, bolting chevy springs in your stock front hangar will move your wheelbase back 6", then you just have to move the rear shackle hangar.

much less work this way since all you have to do is tag more on the end, instead of cutting your truck in half, and welding an extension at 4 points.

sounds like you are going to work this truck hard, you don't want a potential weak point in the middle of the truck.

Ok, for the Chevy spring swap, what year/model Chevy springs would I need to use?
 
88-98 63in springs 2 1/2in wide

Thanks KrazyKracker!

Last Q, I hope. Would that be 63" straight across from hole to hole, or should I follow the arch? Also would these come off of a C-10 or 15 series?
Once mounted this will give me the 6" I need?
Again, Thanks for all of the help!:icon_thumby::icon_thumby::icon_thumby:
 

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