Explorer Radiator in Ranger

[macdude67]

Converted 1994 3.0 Ranger 2wd to 5.0 HO and Explorer front engine accessory drive components. Currently using a 1994 heavy duty Ranger 4.0 radiator that has an 18 X 18 X 2.25 core section but isn't getting job done when stuck in traffic. Has anyone used the tall explorer 5.0 radiator? Or any other recommendations on radiators? Note the core section on my current radiator is bigger than some of the some of the 5..0 conversion units from AFCO and Northern but not as thick as theirs at 2.5".

 

[Uncle Gump]

What are you using for a cooling fan?

Are you using a shroud?

 

[JoshT]

Same questions Gump has.

I'll add is the fan clutch working?

Have you verified that the temp gauge is accurate? (at least as much as it can be)

Is it a 1 row or a two row radiator? That thickness sounds like a 2 row.

If it's a dual row and unless it's plugged up, I don't think that the radiator itself is the core of your problem. Plenty of examples around that the two row 4.0L radiator usually cools well enough for a 5.0L in those Rangers, especially this time of year.

The taller Explorer radiator isn't going to be a bolt in affair. IIRC at a minimum it's going to require some cutting on the core support and maybe other stuff to clear at the bottom.The whole way that the bottom of the radiator mounts is different and would require some fab work to support the Explorer radiator.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, that, in '95ish (my '97 Ranger has the same style mounts as my V8 Explorers) they changed how the radiators mount from the two pegs at the bottom to two mounts around center on the side tanks that wouldn't be too hard to fabricate but it wouldn't be a bolt in affair, well it would bolt to the top just not be mounted at the bottom...

 

[bobbywalter]

plus 1

 

[macdude67]

What are you using for a cooling fan?

Are you using a shroud?

18 Spal electric. No fan shroud since electric one of the trimline series fans I believe. The spal fan is 2" thick at the motor and even with the explorer front dress accessories I have to move the fan motor higher than the center line for the water pump as there isn't enough room so theres no way for a standard clutch and fan assembly on the water pump.

 

[macdude67]

Same questions Gump has.

I'll add is the fan clutch working?

Have you verified that the temp gauge is accurate? (at least as much as it can be)

Is it a 1 row or a two row radiator? That thickness sounds like a 2 row.

If it's a dual row and unless it's plugged up, I don't think that the radiator itself is the core of your problem. Plenty of examples around that the two row 4.0L radiator usually cools well enough for a 5.0L in those Rangers, especially this time of year.

The taller Explorer radiator isn't going to be a bolt in affair. IIRC at a minimum it's going to require some cutting on the core support and maybe other stuff to clear at the bottom.The whole way that the bottom of the radiator mounts is different and would require some fab work to support the Explorer radiator.

Cooler months are ok but summer time here in Florida when stuck in interstate stop and go traffic is the problem temps can get to be 90+ degrees in the shade in July and August especially. Currently just has a temp sweep gauge but motor is starting to ping from heat. Had to shut off and wait for cool down a couple times this summer.

 

[macdude67]

Yeah, that, in '95ish (my '97 Ranger has the same style mounts as my V8 Explorers) they changed how the radiators mount from the two pegs at the bottom to two mounts around center on the side tanks that wouldn't be too hard to fabricate but it wouldn't be a bolt in affair, well it would bolt to the top just not be mounted at the bottom...

Did a test fit with the 5.0 explorer radiator I have here and it wont drop all the way down because of the narrow frame rails. Also have 95 Ranger and see that the radiator is supported differently but measured the frame rail distance between the 94 and 95 and they seem to be the same so would have to notch the frame rails on the 95 as well to use explorer radiator. I have a set of explorer upper and lower radiator hose coming and will notch the rails to get radiator down flush with top of core support. Not sure yet but hose routing on lower hose looks problematic because of location of steering gear box and lower radiator hose outlet but cant say for certain till frame rails are notched and hoses come in.

 

[macdude67]

Hey what's opinion about notching the frame rails to allow radiator to fit. That area of frame rail is convoluted for I assume a crumple zone? I would have to cut about 1 on pass and 1.5 t 2 inches out of drivers side of frame rail to get radiator in. Should I worry about boxing that area back in as it only supports core support and front bumpers weight? But as crumple zone goes even if I box it back in crumple area is pretty much compromised?

 

[JoshT]

Hey what's opinion about notching the frame rails to allow radiator to fit

My opinion is, I wouldn't. I'd work on making the radiator that fits properly (AKA the style thats installed now) work.

You still have things to try before you start cutting. First one is ensure that your cooing system is flowing properly. Do you have, or have access to, one of those infrared thermometers? You could also use a thermal camera if you have access to one. When the truck is thoroughly warmed up use it to check various areas on the radiator core and insure that the temperature is fairly even. If you have cold/hot areas, your radiator is partially blocked.

If cooling system is working properly (radiator, water pump, and thermostat) you really need a fan shroud and a good fan. Nothing wrong with going E-fan, but those SPAL fans don't flow the greatest. Look around online for information about using a Volvo, Taurus, or Lincoln Mark VIII E-fan. Those are OEM fans that flow a whole lot more air than what you have now, some over twice as much, and are pretty common for e-fan swaps. You also need a shroud to ensure that the air is flowing properly through the radiator. It may seem counter intuitive that a shroud would improve cooling, but it does. When in motion you'll have plenty of flow even with the shroud. When stoipped the shroud ensures that the fan pulls air through the radiator, and it pulls through more area of the radiator than the fan itself would.

From past studying I'd really recommend the Volvo 2-speed, due to how it mounts it should be realitively easy to adapt to a shroud that fits your radiator.

You can probably find an article on these e-fans in the tech library, but there is a lot more information spread all over the internet if you search for it.

You asked for opinion and that's mine. Can't provide any more concerning frame cutting. Honestly, I think you're making a mistake if you jump to that option.

 

[superj]

if you end up having to use the larger radiator, does it fit in front instead of the rear?

i would go to the junkyard after measuring how much room i had to play with and find something that was bigger then i had abut fit into the space i had.

or you can route the radiator to the bed and run a huge f350 td radiator with twin electric fans and call it good