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Explorer 8.8 Swap U-Bolts


The ones I posted are OE spec. Weld them on at I believe 2.5 and 6.5" respectively. Measuring from where the tubes are pressed into the pumpkin at. Weld them on at around 40-45 degrees with the Pinion at 6.5 degrees.
 
So that sounds like it would be far from the stock setup. My original 8.8 has the shocks set up one in the front of the axle tube and one in the back. I'd prefer to keep it that way, so I don't have to mess with the upper shock mounts.

You are swapping a explorer 8.8 in, of course it is gonna be far from stock from either vehicle, some fab is involved.

I was not advocating the brass knuckles looking weld on shock tabs, just pointing out how they work since you expressed earlier that they confused you.

It doesn't matter what kind of mount you use, but all the fab-parts online places have many to choose from, pick one and weld them on wherever you like, its not that crucial.

I chose to weld them on the same side of the axle, cuz the stock setup is dumb, and then all I did was torch the rivets off the upper shock mount, slide it back like 12" and redrill some holes and bolt it on.

Like brinker said, you can even get OEM replacements through bronco boneyard or other places.
 
You are swapping a explorer 8.8 in, of course it is gonna be far from stock from either vehicle, some fab is involved.

I was not advocating the brass knuckles looking weld on shock tabs, just pointing out how they work since you expressed earlier that they confused you.

It doesn't matter what kind of mount you use, but all the fab-parts online places have many to choose from, pick one and weld them on wherever you like, its not that crucial.

I chose to weld them on the same side of the axle, cuz the stock setup is dumb, and then all I did was torch the rivets off the upper shock mount, slide it back like 12" and redrill some holes and bolt it on.

Like brinker said, you can even get OEM replacements through bronco boneyard or other places.

I know I will need to do some welding. That is not what I was trying to get at. Anyways, what is the point of the opposite shocks then? Prevent axle wrap or something?
 
Sounds like your getting axle wrap when you launch, having blocks would cause the effect to be greater the larger size block you use.

It is also a sign of worn out springs. Since my truck sits about an inch underlevel I am blaming the springs. Doesn't really do it with the airshocks (which are in far from perfect health either) aired up though.

I don't really know what the deal is with staggered shocks. My '02 F-150 has staggered and my brother's has them both to the rear (factory) and they ride the same.

I have a set of Explorer springs to swap in when the 8.8 goes in that should take care of the problem.
 
I just did some researching and found that it is in fact to eliminate wheel hop. My truck doesn't hop with the current setup (staggered), so why "fix" something that isn't broken? The only con I can think of is that staggered doesn't look as good IMO. But hey, I'm not trying to build a mall crawler.
 
Swapping the explorer springs isn't a bad idea. And to be honest with the springs I have(no idea what they are just know they aren't stock)I get some torque steer when I lay on the throttle.

Back to the original question before we jacked the thread-there is a large selection of mounts, springs perches, tabs, and the like for you to choose from vexy. Just gotta find what you like and suits your needs.

I like how your u-bolt question turned into this monstrosity :icon_rofl:
 
for plates I got 1' of receiver tubing (2"id square, 2 1/2" outside, was $10 at my local scrapper), cut it at about a 30* angle in the middle and angled the ends and got two perches about 8" long, welded a couple pieces of 3/4" strap in the middle between the two and used a 3 1/4" hole saw to drill out the center hole, gave me about 3/4" of extra lift and BEEFY AS HELL:

RangerLift030.jpg


Shock tabs were made from flat stock, quick, cheap and easy...
 
Swapping the explorer springs isn't a bad idea. And to be honest with the springs I have(no idea what they are just know they aren't stock)I get some torque steer when I lay on the throttle.

Back to the original question before we jacked the thread-there is a large selection of mounts, springs perches, tabs, and the like for you to choose from vexy. Just gotta find what you like and suits your needs.

I like how your u-bolt question turned into this monstrosity :icon_rofl:

Yeah I know. I am just full of questions! :D
Looks like I am all set with everything except the gears (Pinion Depth). I'll most likely have to ask a question or two when I get to setting that up.
:iamwithstupid:
 
I know I will need to do some welding. That is not what I was trying to get at. Anyways, what is the point of the opposite shocks then? Prevent axle wrap or something?

Who knows :icon_confused: I can't tell if there is any difference at all by changing them to both on the same side, other than it is more aesthetically pleasing to have more uniformness....which IMHO looks mo better than the stock config :icon_twisted:
 
I got real lucky and the previous gears had everything exactly where I needed them to be. Get your reading pants on though and go over the tech library a few times. All your questions will be answered there.

And nice job on the spring perches. A little bit of ingenuity goes a long way and saves lots of money :icon_thumby:
 
I got real lucky and the previous gears had everything exactly where I needed them to be. Get your reading pants on though and go over the tech library a few times. All your questions will be answered there.

And nice job on the spring perches. A little bit of ingenuity goes a long way and saves lots of money :icon_thumby:

Oh trust me, I've read about it on numerous websites, and it just doesn't click. Maybe I'm over thinking it. Things make sense to me once they are and front of me. I'm more of a hands on learner. :icon_idea:
 
Oh trust me, I've read about it on numerous websites, and it just doesn't click. Maybe I'm over thinking it. Things make sense to me once they are and front of me. I'm more of a hands on learner. :icon_idea:

If you can get Ford gears (like Ford Racing) and MAKE SURE you put the shims back in the same place as when you took it apart. Study really good about how to check everything and check it.

Usually it will get you really close.

It would be nice if they did it like tractors and just stamp what shims go where in the case... but then it is set up completely different where the pinion is part of the transmission and one of the last things to back in, and the carrier is one of the first.
 
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If you can get Ford gears (like Ford Racing) and MAKE SURE you put the shims back in the same place as when you took it apart. Study really good about how to check everything and check it.

Usually it will get you really close.

It would be nice if they did it like tractors and just stamp what shims go where in the case.

It doesnt matter what brand they are, they're still gonna be off. I personally wouldnt mess with it. I had mine done for $250 with a lifetime warranty at a local shop from an old guy that's done it for 40+ years
 
It doesnt matter what brand they are, they're still gonna be off. I personally wouldnt mess with it. I had mine done for $250 with a lifetime warranty at a local shop from an old guy that's done it for 40+ years

I got a shop press and a bearing separator for a lot of trial+error, plus a lot of time.
I'd rather do it myself! Stubborn, yes...but willing to learn.
 
It doesnt matter what brand they are, they're still gonna be off. I personally wouldnt mess with it. I had mine done for $250 with a lifetime warranty at a local shop from an old guy that's done it for 40+ years

That is how they do it the local Ford dealership and then they fine tune it from there. Usually it is really close.

Better than shooting from the hip IMO if you are going to do it yourself.
 

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