Exhaust manifold gaskets

[jimmy1979]

Im going to be changing out the exhaust manifold gaskets on my truck. Anyone have any sugestions on how to make it go smoothly.
Im most worried about the hardware breaking. What do I do if it does break?
I was thinking about going out to the truck once or twice a day for about a few days and soaking the crap out of all the hardware with something like PB Blaster, think it will help?

Also, I can only find a leak on the driver side, do I need to change them in both or is one good?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

If only one is leaking, only change one. No sense creating work for yourself.

If they break off, you have 2 options. Try and remove them with an easy out, or drill them out and re tap the holes. Neither option is fun in the truck.

 

[jimmy1979]

Can I use long bolt and nuts instead of re tapping? I dont have the equipment to re tap a hole.

 

[sholzy]

Can I use long bolt and nuts instead of re tapping? I dont have the equipment to re tap a hole.

No.

I've had much better luck using Rust Buster for freeing rusted nuts and bolts. It can be hard to find though. http://www.laco.com/productDetail49.aspx

 

[Dweano]

Hey man. I had a hella time putting on headers (basically the same things involved with what your doing). I went out and soaked the bolts with PB blaster. penetrating oil...that freeze stuff. I dunno if it helped but it sure couldn't have hurt! Then I went to taking my old bolts out...and I got them all out perfect
...
Then I went to put the new bolts in...with an air impact annoyed...and promptly snapped a bolt head off. There was so much rust and junk in there. So I learned my lesson (Tap the threads BEFORE you put bolts back in)...so I tapped away...and then my dad decided to help...and he snapped a tap off in the head long story short...I ended up destroying (via a carbide dremel tip on the bolt and torch on the tap) the things in my heads...and I used a long bolt and washers and stuff on those two holes...half a year later and there still good

BUT! Thats only because they were on the top...the top bolts go thro, the bottoms do not.

I hope you learn from my mistakes haha

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

An impact wrench is your best bet for avoiding breakage. Even though the chance is still there, it's far lower than trying to crack the bolts loose by hand.
Load it up with PB blaster, liquid nails, wd40, and then some ATF all at once for about a week before trying to remove the bolts.

 

[jimmy1979]

Load it up with PB blaster, liquid nails, wd40, and then some ATF all at once for about a week before trying to remove the bolts.

Wow, thats quite a cocktail!

Im gonna start soaking it tonite and beg, borrow or, steal(probly not steal it) the stuff to re tap the holes and give it a shot this weekend.

 

[Quartermile]

acetylene torch works to take out broken bolts too, but when you hit the air it'll all come shooting out of the hole. but its easy to fudge up the block this way. PB blaster will be your friend. When you get the manifold off, sand the block with 3m green automotive sandpaper. I think its like 300 grit? I'm not sure what grit, I just take it from the garage stock and help dad with money to replace all that fluid and grease and stuff when we need it

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

Wow, thats quite a cocktail!

Im gonna start soaking it tonite and beg, borrow or, steal(probly not steal it) the stuff to re tap the holes and give it a shot this weekend.

I forgot to add that a bit of heat mixed in the middle really helps things along. Start the engine for 30 seconds or so to get the manifolds warmed up. The oil all over the place will should be smoking a bit when you get it just right. Then cut it off and spray it a few more times as it cools.

A basic tap and die kit is only like $40 at most hardware stores. The trick is finding a drill that will fit in the engine bay. Right angle drills aren't quite so cheap. And try to find a bottle of tap oil, or machinists oil. Stuff works wonders.
Thread cutting oil. That's what I was thinking of...