Engine Swap/Fuel Pump Question

[rancheroo]

Long story. I've got an 88 Ranger that was originally a 2.3 EFI with electric fuel pumps. I think I read that it has two, one in the tank and one inside the frame rail under the drivers seat.

Omitting a lot of drama here... I installed a 2.3 out of a 93 Mustang using an older head so I can run a carburator. It's now a carburated truck & will forever remain a carburated truck. The trouble is that the 93 Mustang block cannot support a mechanical fuel pump - no hole for it, so I'm stuck using the stock electric fuel pumps.

I plugged the original return line and ran the 'pressure' side to the carb, with a regulator. The truck will start and run for a few seconds when I pour gas into the carb, so I figured it wasn't getting any fuel. Sure enough, with the ignition on, with the fuel pumps buzzing like a flock of dirt daubers, I pull the fuel line at the carb & if I'm lucky, I get just a dribble of gas.

My question is: do I need to tie the 'pressure' line and the return line together & then 'T' off of that loop to get fuel pressure to the carb?

What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

Rick

 

[rancheroo]

Is this a stupid/obvious question? Or am I trying to do something that's unorthodox? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Rick

 

[dangerranger83]

Fuel pressure regulator. Carbed. engines need 4.5-9 psi of fuel pressure. The 2.3 EFI pressure is 44 psi.

Answering the question put a regulator on the main line (44psi). Hook the return line to the regulator (if regulator has a return, best to get one with it), and run the lowered pressure line to the carb. (4.5-9 psi).

The fuel pumps should be pouring fuel out of the main line when the pumps are running. I've heard of some people by passing the high pressure pump and just use the low pressure (lift) pump but not for sure on that.

BTW why go to carb.? Nothing wrong with carbs. just wondering.

Hope this helps you out.

 

[rancheroo]

Danger, thanks for the reply. I do have a regulator, but it's a cheap Mr. Gasket unit with only an in and an out port.

I'm getting zero pressure at the carb, evident when I disconnect the fuel line & at best, there's only a dribble of gas. most of the time there's nothing. That's why I was asking about creating a loop with the return line. Didn't know if the vacuum created by using the pumps in a 'dead head' configuration was causing cavitation, of vacuum loke somehow.

Went to a carb'd setup so that I can work on it. I don't have the knowledge, experience or tools to work on an EFI system. I tried at first but internet 'experts' had me changing every sensor/module/computer...in the system, so I said screw it, I'll put a carb & an old style ignition system on it. Probably not the smartest thing I ever did, but it's done.

Thanks again, Rick

 

[schmoo]

i'd lose the high pressure pump. disconnect
it and check the flow from the low pressure
pump, and if it is good, run that to the regulator.
i agree about the carb. when efi works, it's great.
when it gets worn out and broken, dump it.

 

[rancheroo]

Schmoo, which pump is which? Is the pump in the frame rail the high pressure pump? If so, will the in-tank pump push fuel through it or do I need to remove it altogether?

Thanks, Rick

 

[schmoo]

the one in the tank is the low pressure one.
no, it wont push through a high pressure one.

 

[dangerranger83]

You dont have to remove it just go around it but removing it will get it out of the weather. I'd keep it on until I know that the low pressure pump will do the job.

 

[rancheroo]

Thanks fellas. I'll get that done tonight.

Rick

 

[rancheroo]

Schmoo, you're a genious. Took out the high pressore pump & ran a line straight to the carb & all is well. All I need to do now is to tidy up the wiring, the fuel line & fix the water leak at the thermostat housing. Thanks again.

Rick