Engine stalls in the mornings?

[mendozamm]

First time posting something. Awesome site by the way.

my 2.9 stalls in the morning. I start it and it dies 10-20 seconds after, doing this 2 or 3 times and it idles fine afterwards. I can smell gas like its being flooded or something. I suspect it has to be a map sensor or air temperature sensor or something along those lines. But i dont want to spend abunch of money changing everything in there. Help..

 

[Millster]

Check your codes. The procedure is in the "tech library" under "EEC IV Diagnostics". If the ECU is picking it up, that'll tell you what sensor is out of whack.
If it's running rich, could be the fuel pressure reg, too. One suggestion is to slip the vacuum line off the back and see if it has fuel in it. If so, the diaphragm in your FPR has perished.

Just as a side note, as mine was acting up this morning, it ended up being a bad connection to the neg on the battery. Gave it a good whack with a hammer and it straightened out. But I would check your terminals for corrosion or bluing and clean if required.

 

[mendozamm]

well checked for codes and 54 came up, air temp sensor. ima change that see how it works out.

 

[RyanL]

well checked for codes and 54 came up, air temp sensor. ima change that see how it works out.

I would change that one since it does control the air fuel ratio, but I would check a few other things too since usually when these trucks run bad it's a combination of a few things. I would at least check out the fuel pressure regulator like Millster mentioned. If it's leaking into the vacuum hose it will make it run rich as hell also.

 

[mendozamm]

Thanks. when checking the fuel pressure regulator. would i check that running or off??

 

[RyanL]

I would check it while running. That way you're testing it while it has fuel pressure. When I was having trouble with my POS, the first time I checked mine I only pulled the vacuum hose off for a few seconds and didn't see any gas dripping. If I had left the vacuum hose off for just a little longer I would've seen fuel dripping from it and would've replaced it sooner.

 

[mendozamm]

aghhh.... I replaced the air temperature sensor. I checked the FPR and no leaks. I was optimistic this morning. But its still dying. anybody have anymore ideas? Im going to check for some more codes in a min.

 

[mendozamm]

map sensor is next on my list. IACV was recently replaced.

 

[RyanL]

map sensor is next on my list. IACV was recently replaced.

Someone else who's had one go bad could probably give you a little bit more, but I would think that you should be getting codes related to the MAP sensor if it was bad. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it's probably not fuel delivery related even though it seems like that is the most common problem around here. My main reason I say that it is because it sounds like it's running rich as hell. Your problem is probably more along the lines of a bad sensor, bad ignition part, or possibly even wiring. Did replacing the intake air temp sensor at least make it run any better? If anything your mileage should do a little better with that sensor working. At least it was probably a cheap part. If you clear the codes (remove the jumper wire while you're getting the check engine light/test light flashing), drive it around for a while and see if any more codes pop up. My TFI was bad and giving somewhat similar symptoms, but I was also getting a couple of codes related to it. Do you know how old the oxygen sensor is? I hate to tell you to throw parts at it, but those are a part that do go bad (I would say about every 80K miles) so it's not unreasonable to replace it simply for the sake of maintenance. That's something I usually replace when I do tune up work. I know that a bad o2 sensor will make it run rich, but I've never seen it so bad that it makes the vehicle underivable. Like I said in my previous post though, you may very well have a bunch of issues which are leading to the truck running like crap (fouled up oxygen sensor, clogged air filter, pcv valve gummed up, plugs and wires which need to be replaced, gummed up injectors, the list goes on and on). Maybe someone can input on where to get an oxygen sensor cheap. Good luck with your troubles.

 

[mendozamm]

Someone else who's had one go bad could probably give you a little bit more, but I would think that you should be getting codes related to the MAP sensor if it was bad. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it's probably not fuel delivery related even though it seems like that is the most common problem around here. My main reason I say that it is because it sounds like it's running rich as hell. Your problem is probably more along the lines of a bad sensor, bad ignition part, or possibly even wiring. Did replacing the intake air temp sensor at least make it run any better? If anything your mileage should do a little better with that sensor working. At least it was probably a cheap part. If you clear the codes (remove the jumper wire while you're getting the check engine light/test light flashing), drive it around for a while and see if any more codes pop up. My TFI was bad and giving somewhat similar symptoms, but I was also getting a couple of codes related to it. Do you know how old the oxygen sensor is? I hate to tell you to throw parts at it, but those are a part that do go bad (I would say about every 80K miles) so it's not unreasonable to replace it simply for the sake of maintenance. That's something I usually replace when I do tune up work. I know that a bad o2 sensor will make it run rich, but I've never seen it so bad that it makes the vehicle underivable. Like I said in my previous post though, you may very well have a bunch of issues which are leading to the truck running like crap (fouled up oxygen sensor, clogged air filter, pcv valve gummed up, plugs and wires which need to be replaced, gummed up injectors, the list goes on and on). Maybe someone can input on where to get an oxygen sensor cheap. Good luck with your troubles.

Thanks for all the help. This morning I got a code for the map (22 I believe). Im going to go to the junkyard and test one out before I go pay 40 buks for a new one. As for my o2 sensor im pretty sure its the original. The truck is still driveable, just takes me 5 minutes restarting it till something warms up. Then I drive it all day, like a madman i might add. As in running rich i probably flooded it by pushing down on the throttle while it was dying.

 

[RyanL]

Good to hear that you got it all figured out. An option for your MAP sensor is go to napa or something, buy it and then return it if it doesn't fix it. Just keep the box and sensor clean and tell them that you never used it. I hate to pester you about it, but I would get that oxygen sensor replaced if you think that it never has been. If it is making the truck run rich, it can mess other things up other than just the mileage. Everything needs to work together correctly for an engine run well and last. If your A/F is messed up your plugs will get fouled and it will also make your oil get fairly dirty.

 

[robertc1024]

I'd clean your IAC valve - easy to do. Mine was running super rich and it was the engine coolant temperature sensor. You can check it with an ohmmeter - here's a link: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=28

 

[mendozamm]

Almost a month later and its still doing it. I bought a map sensor still dies. swapped out IACV still dies. coolant temp sendor still dies. Air temp sendor still dies. and after 5 tries of starting and idling 5 to 10 seconds at a time, it finally stays on and im good all day. HELP!! This thing is driving me crazy. (no codes as of this morning)

 

[RyanL]

You didn't mention it but when was the last time you did a tune up? If it's due for one you can cross those items off of the list and it will make things a lot easier to troubleshoot. And like I said earlier, you need to replace your oxygen sensor if it has 100K miles on it or more (I usually do mine about every 50-70K miles). It's a regular tune up part and they wear out and go bad regularly. I didn't mention it before because it sounded like you were getting codes for other things, but you may have one or more bad injectors. You could try to clean them, but that might not do much if the internal seals are leaking. I was looking for a set not too long ago and someone suggested the Accel ones off of Summit Racing. Those were the cheapest new ones around unless you go with remanufactured. Worry about the smaller things first before assuming it's faulty injectors.

 

[RustedRanger]

I replaced a bunch of parts before having a friend who does mobile auto electric diagnostics put his computer on it. It saved me money in not replacing more parts I didn't need. With the diagnostic computer he was able to see how well each sensor was working while it was running,he found a broken ground wire,a bad coil plug-in and found that the coil was weak. If you do have iagnosed try to find someone who is good at it....and many times with auto electrics it has to fail (like yours when its cold) before they can find the problem most times. The first shop I took mine to couldn't find anything wrong because the FPR acted fine while they had it....until I drove it home. That was before I knew my cousin had a fuel pressure gauge....mine didn't leak it just messed up when it felt like it lol