Engine oil leak

[mike367]

hey guys, need some help with an oil leak. Keep in mind I am not a mechanic but have done some stuff. I noticed a small oil puddle at the beginning of summer under the truck directly below the oil drain plug, also noticed a small repeating drip on the plug itself. At the time I was was knee deep in changing both wheel bearing hub assemblies and half axles, so I put the leak on the back burner.


Fast forward two months to now ( due to financial issues) I have finally completed the front end and am ready to work the leak. The truck has not been started for the two months and there is no oil showing on the dip stick. I crawl under and loosen the drain plug expecting no oil. I was wrong, oil poured out so I quickly re tightend the plug and wiped it down, no leak.

My guess is it's leaking somewhere between were the oil dosnt show on the stick and the pan. If it's the pan I do not have the tools to change it so would have to consult a shop. Any idea on cost ? Thanks for your time. Mike

 

[anchorshot]

Rear main seal? Is there caked oil on the front of the bell housing?

 

[hondaxr650]

3.0 oil pan gaskets are known for leaks. Look where the pan meets the block all the way around and you'll probably see the gasket swollen and hanging out the sides of the pan. The new gasket will be a rigid plastic one with rubber molded on it to keep it from happening again. Leave it to Ford to make an oil pan gasket that swells up and splits when exposed to oil............

 

[mike367]

3.0 oil pan gaskets are known for leaks. Look where the pan meets the block all the way around and you'll probably see the gasket swollen and hanging out the sides of the pan. The new gasket will be a rigid plastic one with rubber molded on it to keep it from happening again. Leave it to Ford to make an oil pan gasket that swells up and splits when exposed to oil............

That's what I think it is, there is no sludge on the bell housing. Looks to be a pita to get to, is this a driveway job or will it have to go to the garage? Any idea of cost ? The pan itself is hammered too, so probably replace it as well. Thanks for the replys guys. Mike

 

[Hawk1339]

That's what I think it is, there is no sludge on the bell housing. Looks to be a pita to get to, is this a driveway job or will it have to go to the garage? Any idea of cost ? The pan itself is hammered too, so probably replace it as well. Thanks for the replys guys. Mike

I did a clutch job this summer, and R&R'd the oil pan and gasket while the tranny and flywheel were off. Ordinarily, the engine has to be disconnected and lifted about 5 inches to remove the oil pan but I don't have the capability to lift the engine. Even with the tranny out, it was difficult to remove the pan. I had to reach in and unbolt the oil pump (which I also replaced) to get the pan out. To reinstall I had to put the pump inside the pan, put the pan in place, then attach the pump. None of it was easy.

If I were replacing only the gasket, I could have worked it in by just dropping the pan and not removing the pump. If the tranny was still in, getting to the rear bolts on the pan would have difficult. In any case you have to remove the starter because there are a few pan bolts that are impossible to access with that item in place.

The gasket I used is the Felpro PermaDry #OS30717R ($35 at Rock Auto). So far, no leaks. Pay attention to the initial torque on the bolts, torque them in a crossover pattern, and torque them again after getting the engine up to temperature. There are 4 places to use RTV to seal mating joints. The gasket comes with replacement bolts.

Not an easy job but doable. My truck was down for more than two weeks while I did this, working evenings and weekends. New clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, master cylinder, pilot bearing, release bearing, oil pump, oil pan, pan gasket, tranny mount, exhaust bolts, exhaust gaskets, camshaft rear bearing bore plug. Resurfaced the flywheel, replaced the tranny fluid.