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Engine halts during crank


Joined
Mar 11, 2025
Messages
6
City
Lakewood, CA
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
Hello there, I have a 1991 Ford Ranger 4.0 and this is an intermittent problem but sometimes while cranking to start, the engine comes to a halt as if ignition is going off at the complete wrong time or maybe it’s a cracked head and the water is turning into steam and halting the piston on its way up. I’ll go to crank again and then it starts fine-ish and runs normal. This problem is concerning to me because it has wiped out one starter already and I am afraid to cause more damage like bending a rod if that is even possible. It sounds terrible when it happens… stressin me the hell out 😆

So far I have :

-Properly cleaned MAF
-Motorcraft air filter
-Denso coil pack/wires
-Motorcraft plugs
-Motorcraft crank position sensor
-Autozone reman ECM
-Delphi Air Intake Temp sensor
-Denso o2 sensor
- “ New old stock” Motorcraft ignition control module
I think that’s it so far…

I just wanna get the truck to not do this anymore lol. I would appreciate any feedback.

My truck :
IMG_8340.jpeg

IMG_8345.jpeg

Thanks for looking!
 
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PS I will now try cranking the truck over while performing the full throttle “injector disable” for a few seconds before going to start it to clear out any coolant drips if there is some in there… then start it and see if it helps.

Overall the truck needs some serious engine work. Leaks oil like hell, valvetrain noise when cold, probably has a cracked head. It runs fairly decent though considering. Eventually I’ll just tear it out and replace or rebuild. I like OHVs. Working on making more dineros so it’s not so financially straining.
 
Welcome to TRS!

Have you ruled out any battery, wiring, or grounding issues?
 
It takes a measurable amount of liquid to hydro lock and engine. If that were the case the engine would steam like crazy if it were coolant. It would blow black smoke like crazy if it were fuel related.

Either failure would certainly foul the engine oil. Does it look milky... smell like raw fuel... Does the level go up?

I believe It could also be a broken flex plate.
 
Welcome!

I can't help with your problem. That said, you can't just drop pictures like that and not give any details.
 
@stevenarias1217
Where did you find that BEAST!
How much does it weigh 👀👀👀

This is a marketplace especial. Not sure what it weighs 🤔

Welcome to TRS!

Have you ruled out any battery, wiring, or grounding issues?

I can definitely spend some more time inspecting every ground and buying fresh battery cables.

It takes a measurable amount of liquid to hydro lock and engine. If that were the case the engine would steam like crazy if it were coolant. It would blow black smoke like crazy if it were fuel related.

Either failure would certainly foul the engine oil. Does it look milky... smell like raw fuel... Does the level go up?

I believe It could also be a broken flex plate.

The oil looks normal as can be ! It has a 5 speed, so I would imagine it’s rare a flywheel would break and if it did I would probably have other issues 🫨

Welcome!

I can't help with your problem. That said, you can't just drop pictures like that and not give any details.

To be fair, I bought the truck with glass already put on it with the wheels and tires.
I put skyjacker leveling coils in the front and bilsteins all around because the ride was hell and honestly dangerous lol. I mounted the spare with a fabtech kit thing… super simple. Hmm.. it’s gutted basically with racing seats. It’s a 4.0 5 speed with both manual transmission and manual transfer case. The A/C does work !

The plan is definitely to do prerunner things with it… been welding at work a lot so just practicing to get to a point where I feel comfortable welding on the truck. Money is the thing just doing what I gotta do to make more of that, the truck is a motivator for sure. Overall, it’s not much right now. Basically a leveled truck with glass on it lol. It has a Blowmaster 40 series and no exhaust after it under the truck so it sounds good.
 
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No coolant in oil, but you can check for cracked head/ bad head gasket by tightly fastening a rubber glove over the radiator inlet and see if it puffs up while the engine is running.
 
The truck definitely has its moments on camera but get close it’s definitely imperfect 🫣

Don't sweat it, you just described most of the good ones. "Perfect" ones are usually parking lot queens with bluetooth driveshafts.
 
So... on distributor type engines... if you get the spark timing too far advanced... it will try to light the fuel mixture to early. That explosion will fight the starter try to bring the piston up to TDC. Sometimes it will cause the starter to struggle. I feel like that's what you're trying to describe.

Crank triggered waste spark systems don't typically do that.

Once running... do it run good... no miss?

I would double check your firing order...
 
I will double check my wire orientation but I am almost positive I have it correct

I have definitely experienced a small block Chevy having trouble starting because the timing was too advanced and the engine was hot

Sort of like what I am experiencing, but my engine just decides to do it randomly completely halting the engine and sounds real hard on the starter and flywheel
 
Before you get crazy with any more parts swapping, check your ignition switch to make sure it's not falling apart. It's located on the column inside the dash where you can't see it. They are crimped together and the crimps can loosen up which causes the switch to come apart. I have had this exact issue several times and the reason it does what it does is because the switch is just barely making contact in the Start position.

In a pinch you can bend the crimp tabs back into position and it'll keep working until they loosen up again.
 
I also looked at your negative cable end...

The picture might be deceiving... but it looks a bit degraded.

Any resistance in the starting circuit is a show stopper.
 
I absolutely need to do some freshening up on the battery cables. It also isn’t great that the positive cable where it goes under the pan is always in oil. I’ll get that all guarded up when replaced. I will check out the ignition switch.

i have been starting the truck now by just flat footing it (injector disable) and letting it crank for a couple seconds then letting off the throttle and so far it hasn’t done it and fires up fine. I did notice that today when I first did that, it wasn’t cranking as fast but then i did it again and it cranked normal. Either way, that stuff all needs maintenance/replacement so before I ramble on anymore about it, I’ll address it.

I appreciate all the feedback !
 

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