macx
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2011
- Messages
- 94
- Vehicle Year
- 1993
- Transmission
- Manual
I think this applies to all the EEC-IV systems rather than just to any one specific engine type, so here goes.
93 Ranger with 5 speed and about 80k miles. Previous owner neglected it horribly. Symptoms are irregular frequent miss or stumble under load in 4th & esp in 5th, at moderate engine speeds in lower gears it acts like I turn the switch off then back on a few seconds later and jerks pretty severely when trying to maintain a steady road speed, altho the engine doesn't die.
When I start it at all warm, it goes to nearly 3k rpm for 20 seconds or so, then settles down.
Engine starts fine, idles fine (other than the warm start hi rpm).
Mileage is about 20% lower than it should be, and it seems down on power.
Vacuum (I installed a gauge) is steady altho maybe 3 to 4 lbs lower than my small block vehicles (maybe just because smaller engine?)
Even with a new 192 T-stat is has a problem staying over 160F on the highway, but warms up to 180 around town and creeps up from there when driving slow or at a stoplite. I've installed a numbered gauge and insulated and wrapped the line from the T-stat housing to beyond the ECT. Fan is removed for cooler winter weather as most of my driving is highway.
I've done lots of testing and replaced the ECT, ACT and TPS and main coil. The ECT and ACT had ohm tested bad. The coil ohm tested OK but was starting to leak a little oil. The new sensors and coil each made an incremental improvement, but the basic problems are still there. Ignition wires ohm out fine. The VREF to all sensors is fine at 5.16, but the signal to the ecu is high from all of them, as well as on the EVP. The main problem has to have something to do with that. I consistently get codes that the ECT, TPS, ACT and EVP signals or circuits are too high voltage, incl after clearing the ecu. Backprobing them with the engine off or on confirms that. Voltage signals to the ecu are way high and erratic, altho the VREF is fine at 5.15. Feeding back from the ecu thru the signal return or even the input circuit? The CEL continues to stay on. I've checked the system grounds and even cleaned the ecu pins and plug and crimped the plug sockets a little tighter to make sure they're making contact.
I've got the actual Ford shop oem electrical trouble shooting manual with all the circuit diagrams, the oem Ford complete wiring diagrams, and the shop manual, and have traced and checked wires till I'm tired of it. I've got a fair amount of experience with EEC-IV on my warmed up 351 Lightning powered Lincoln Mark VII LSC converted to mass air and using a Mustang ecu with other components enhanced from stock, but I'm stuck on this simple little pickup!
I've about come to the conclusion it's time for a reman ecu. The only other thing I can think of is that there may be a short in the wiring someplace I can't find. I'm in the process of replacing the injectors and fp regulator and 02 sensor just because of the miles.
Fuel pressure is acceptable altho right on the bottom of the acceptable range. Compression checked out OK and reasonably even.
Any experiences with this kind of problem or suggestions most welcome!
Also, I've got to get this solved in time for the annual smog check in July.
93 Ranger with 5 speed and about 80k miles. Previous owner neglected it horribly. Symptoms are irregular frequent miss or stumble under load in 4th & esp in 5th, at moderate engine speeds in lower gears it acts like I turn the switch off then back on a few seconds later and jerks pretty severely when trying to maintain a steady road speed, altho the engine doesn't die.
When I start it at all warm, it goes to nearly 3k rpm for 20 seconds or so, then settles down.
Engine starts fine, idles fine (other than the warm start hi rpm).
Mileage is about 20% lower than it should be, and it seems down on power.
Vacuum (I installed a gauge) is steady altho maybe 3 to 4 lbs lower than my small block vehicles (maybe just because smaller engine?)
Even with a new 192 T-stat is has a problem staying over 160F on the highway, but warms up to 180 around town and creeps up from there when driving slow or at a stoplite. I've installed a numbered gauge and insulated and wrapped the line from the T-stat housing to beyond the ECT. Fan is removed for cooler winter weather as most of my driving is highway.
I've done lots of testing and replaced the ECT, ACT and TPS and main coil. The ECT and ACT had ohm tested bad. The coil ohm tested OK but was starting to leak a little oil. The new sensors and coil each made an incremental improvement, but the basic problems are still there. Ignition wires ohm out fine. The VREF to all sensors is fine at 5.16, but the signal to the ecu is high from all of them, as well as on the EVP. The main problem has to have something to do with that. I consistently get codes that the ECT, TPS, ACT and EVP signals or circuits are too high voltage, incl after clearing the ecu. Backprobing them with the engine off or on confirms that. Voltage signals to the ecu are way high and erratic, altho the VREF is fine at 5.15. Feeding back from the ecu thru the signal return or even the input circuit? The CEL continues to stay on. I've checked the system grounds and even cleaned the ecu pins and plug and crimped the plug sockets a little tighter to make sure they're making contact.
I've got the actual Ford shop oem electrical trouble shooting manual with all the circuit diagrams, the oem Ford complete wiring diagrams, and the shop manual, and have traced and checked wires till I'm tired of it. I've got a fair amount of experience with EEC-IV on my warmed up 351 Lightning powered Lincoln Mark VII LSC converted to mass air and using a Mustang ecu with other components enhanced from stock, but I'm stuck on this simple little pickup!
I've about come to the conclusion it's time for a reman ecu. The only other thing I can think of is that there may be a short in the wiring someplace I can't find. I'm in the process of replacing the injectors and fp regulator and 02 sensor just because of the miles.
Fuel pressure is acceptable altho right on the bottom of the acceptable range. Compression checked out OK and reasonably even.
Any experiences with this kind of problem or suggestions most welcome!
Also, I've got to get this solved in time for the annual smog check in July.
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