Engine break in

[superdave1984]

OK this isn't my Ranger engine, but my Jeep. It has been a very VERY long time since I rebuilt an engine and a lot ha changed. My old method of break in was to pre lube, then start and run (barring leaks) at about 2000 RPM for 10 minutes, then let it idle for a few then drive it like normal. Not baby it, but drive it like I would normally.

My engine documentation says to pre-lube by cranking the engine for 2 minutes, then start and run at 1800 RPM for 15, then shut off, let cool and drive like normal for 500 miles, then change oil and filter.

Then I read this article which has a different method. Granted it's for bike engines, but he says it applies to any 4 stroke engine.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

So of the three methods, which do you guys prefer?
Also, I want this thing to last a LONG time. I know not to use synthetic oil for break in, but what about Mobil 1? It's graphite based. I know Royal Purple makes a break in oil.

 

[JoeDowntown]

I was going to ask this about the Ranger I just bought it had 7 miles on it when I bought it. When should it be broke in? Should I change the oil sooner for the first run through? Its a 2008 Ford Ranger Sport 3.0

 

[snake]

I always just crank 'em and let it fast idle by itself, go down to normal idle and watch for leaks, top off fluids, etc. But when you drive it, do a lot of coasting- speed up a bit, then back off- this allows the higher vacuum (coasting) to pull oil up through the rings. I've heard to do this the first 1000 miles, so setting the cruise or running a steady speed for long periods is a no-no. I generally dump the oil at 2,000 miles, then change again in 3,000 miles, then do 5,000 mile intervals after that.

Joe downtown, we're damn near neightbors! Welcome to TRS

 

[RustedRanger]

Unless Im wrong Mobil 1 has no grahpite. Some of the older specialty oils and additives had graphite and it works it's way to the plugs and causes pre-ignition. The higher RPM at the first start up is to keep plenty of oil at the cam and bearings which if not broken right can go "flat". What I have read and done on the two new engines I have had was to drive it normally except don't stay at one RPM for long periods. On newer engines the rings seat almost imediatly because of closer tolerences and "rounder" cylinders. What I also read is to change the oil right after the initial break in because there will be a lot of junk in the oil from the cam breaking in,which is a lot less with a roller cam. A good idea is to get a magnetic drain plug,you wont believe how much metal it catches from the break in and even after,I nearly freaked out until I asked around and the amount of metal is normal.

 

[BigJohn76]

on the race car engine i think we ran it at 2500 for 20 minutes and then shut it off for 30 then ran it again for 20. im not sure about the rpm though. we also used an oil with zinc added to it so the cam would not be hurt.

oil companies are reducing the zinc in the oil and it causes the cams to go bad.

 

[feellnfroggy]

From what I understand Saleen and a few other Rousch etc. they start the engine, let the oil get where it needs to be and redline for like 20 minutes to seat the rings. honda does this in its S2000 and motorcycles as well. I dont know that I would do it in your jeep. Our new hummer over sears had the same 500 mile recommendation.
We took them out did 90 in a KBR escort convoy and basically ran the piss outta them. Great trucks, never had a problem enginewise.

 

[Tedybear]

The old method I was taught is probably far off the mark at this point. We used to disable the ignition and crank it until we had good oil pressure. (no more then 10 seconds at a time, allowing for the starter to cool) This was to prime the oil system and get the oil in the galleries. Then after starting it up, take it out for a drive...out of the way road of course. Dead stop...and gun it until the car/truck was at 55. Dead stop again...gun it to 55...and repeat a few times to ensure the rings where seated. (we used to find a back road where the local PD didn't hang out for clear reasons LOL)

Afterward recheck all fluid levels and pressures where applicable and drive the next 500 miles at different NON-constant speeds. (no cruse let 'er wander up and down a bit) After that first 500 miles? Change the oil and filter, inspect old oil for anything that would cause alarm (like bearing chunks) And then good to go.

But that was about 20 years ago LOL.

S-

 

[sbsumerix]

i was told by my teacher to drive the truck for 500 miles at differnent rpms to break it in. then my dads friend said for their drag cars they start the engine run for 30 mins at 2000 rpm and shut it down wait for the engine to cool drain oil and refill. thats what we ended up doing on our 5.7 and it runs great no problems

 

[kerry]

Replaced the engine (long block) in an 86 Dodge Datona (Shelby turbo Z) and the break in procedure suggested was the 500 miles at varying speeds followed by an oil change.

 

[Mark_88]

I've heard varying versions of the 500 mile method on both new and rebuilt engines. I did read the OP link many years ago on this site and thought it made sense, but haven't had to break in a new or rebuilt engine for a long time...

When I first bought my Tempo new from the dealer I used the 500 mile method...changed the oil at that point and then again at the 3,000 mile (KM) mark...and every 5,000 or so after that for the entire life of the engine...

Since I put almost 400,000 km on that car, that means I changed the oil roughly 80 times in 14 years...and other than regular tune-ups, an alternator, MAP sensor, and a few fuel pumps...oh, I did have the engine swapped out around 300,000, but not because there was anything wrong with it...just a major screw up by the mechanic...

I guess you could say I'm a fan of the old ways...