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Eng temp cold, + no heat


dripdoc

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2011
Messages
6
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
I got up this morn it was 17% out. started the 1997 ranger 2.3ltr stick and let it run for 15 mins. But as I got moving down the road, the temp guage goes down and I lost heat. I just bought this thing and It never has had what I call a good heater. Any suggestions why the temp guage is dropping?
Thanks guys.:sad:
 
I got up this morn it was 17% out. started the 1997 ranger 2.3ltr stick and let it run for 15 mins. But as I got moving down the road, the temp guage goes down and I lost heat. I just bought this thing and It never has had what I call a good heater. Any suggestions why the temp guage is dropping?
Thanks guys.:sad:

assuming your gauge is accurate......replace the tstat with a Motorcraft. I think yours is 190 or 192 degrees. make sure it sits in the housing properly, bleed the air out........then make sure the inlet hose to the heater core is HOT where it goes into the firewall...........these engines do run cool so it helps to put cardboard over the radiator in the winter
 
Ok Geek

So if this was the prob, are you saying even after I change the t-stat I will never get good heat without the cardboard in front of the rad? I was wondering because I just sold an old 1987 mazda with a 4cyl 5 spd, and in that baby I would have to turn the temp down and fan speed 2 or 3 miles down the road after idling 15mins in this weather, and I was told the motors are very similar. I would still have her, but I smacked it into a rear end of a minivan,lol.
What do you think of the Fail-Safe thermostats?
 
Last edited:
Ok Geek

So if this was the prob, are you saying even after I change the t-stat I will never get good heat without the cardboard in front of the rad? I was wondering because I just sold an old 1987 mazda with a 4cyl 5 spd, and in that baby I would have to turn the temp down and fan speed 2 or 3 miles down the road after idling 15mins in this weather, and I was told the motors are very similar. I would still have her, but I smacked it into a rear end of a minivan,lol.

thye run cool but you will get heat............change the tstat to the oem motorcraft
 
Put the t-stat in

well I put the t-stat in, (it was kinda hard to reach with the air cond line right in front of it) and flushed the system with prestone cleaner. I put new 50-50 antifreeze in and it still doesn't want to heat up at an idle worth a damn. after you get going in traffick you get pretty good heat, but not too good on the highway.
Can anyone tell me the correct way to bleed the system?
Thnx
 
After filling up the radiator and reservoir, remove the heater hose from the heater core. Start the engine and bleed air from the system. When coolant is seen flowing from the heater hose or the heater core reinstall the heater hose.
Straight from a ford repair manual.
 
Somehow coming from a Ford manual doesn't surprise me. If you don't want to go to the trouble of removing your heater line, you can also install a tee, or a flush kit with a removable cap (Prestone makes these, among others). If installed at a high point in the line, it can also work reasonably well as a bleeder valve. I've used them for years with much success, except on a 232cid Essex V6 (notorious overheater and headgasket blower).
 

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