Electric emission pump question

[pedal2themetal45]

HI, I got Cavlear for my Ranger. I bleieve the pump was for like a 2000 something. Anyway it keeps cycling on and off? is that programed into it?? I ask pecause we have it wired direct thru a switch, so it should have constant power?? Is that the way it works??
It runs good when the pump is running and shakes when the pump shuts off??
Its an 84 new rebuilt 2.3 carbed. the book calls for 0* timming but I was told by someone that it should be 10*. which do you think is wright. It does not have the tag on the core suport for refferaince
thanks
tim

 

[adsm08]

Huh?

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[Mark_88]

Ah, the cavalier smog pump...ran into the same problem with mine and finally gave up on it...in Canada, it doesn't actually have to work to be acceptable.

Now, as for it cycling on and off, it is actually supposed to do that...they are not meant to be run full on mostly because they push air into the cat at idle when emissions are strongest and are, apparently, vacuum operated to do so. I could not find the proper vacuum controls to work with mine.

But they are available...you probably need to go to the junkyard and yank out the controls to see if you can get them hooked up...low vacuum will enable the pump to turn on...high vacuum (like under driving conditions) will shut the pump off...

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Thanks 88. What about the timming? should I leave it at 10* with vacuum advance un hooked and pluged. OR run it at 0* like the Chilton states I don't have the core suport tag.
tim

 

[Mark_88]

With the distributor vac unhooked, you should be at 10* BTDC...that is where mine runs best...it could be 8* or 12* as these engines will run at that variance...but 10* is the best...then you can tweak it by rotating the distributor cw or ccw (clockwise or counter clockwise).

When you plug in the dist vac it would read in the 20 to 30* range, but that is because of the vac advance.

One thing you should look at is the stator. If the stator moves when you rev the engine then your vac advance should be working fine. If not, maybe the diaphram in the stator is shot and you might have to replace it.

 

[exbass94]

But they are available...you probably need to go to the junkyard and yank out the controls to see if you can get them hooked up...low vacuum will enable the pump to turn on...high vacuum (like under driving conditions) will shut the pump off...

You have that backwards. Vacuum is highest at idle, and decreases the more the throttle opens.

 

[Mark_88]

You have that backwards. Vacuum is highest at idle, and decreases the more the throttle opens.

Ooops...right...thanks for correcting that...

 

[Road Angels]

thats only true if your NOT using ported vacuum , to operate the smog pump and dist. vac. uses ported vacuum witch is low at Idle and higher as the revs go up , manifold vacuum is higher at idle and lower as revs go up , other wise you would be decreasing your timimg as the rpms go up, if you plug into a unported source, you should have no more than about 15 degrees with the vac line plugged back in after 10 degree base has been set at idle, with a total depending on gas in your area of 28-32 degrees total, at above 2500rpm