Electric case to manual

[arse_sidewards]

Anyone know if the shifter is supposed to have a bushing in it or is the fork on dowel thing supposed to be metal on metal or if there's supposed to be a bushing in there?

I have a BW1350 shifter if that matters.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

There’s supposed to be a plastic bushing. I don’t currently have any idea where to source one beyond maybe a junkyard. Sources have come and gone on them and it’s been awhile since I last kept track.

 

[arse_sidewards]

But the BW1350 shifter is the same, right?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

But the BW1350 shifter is the same, right?

Maybe? I know the shifter varies by transmission on the 1350 cases, think it was standardized to one or two lengths by the time the 1354 became normal. RBVs with a manual transfer case are about as rare as hens teeth around here, everything is electric shift, darn yuppies…

 

[arse_sidewards]

Here's the two taps you need for the shifter. Oddly the big bolt was tapped and just needed to be cleaned. The rear bolt hole had to be tapped from scratch. It was a real bitch to get alignment, I wound up grinding flutes into a bolt that had a pilot on it in order to make the first few threads to get the tap aligned.

 

[arse_sidewards]

So the shifter arm on the 1350 (from an 89ish B2 with unknown manual trans) has a different offset than the 1992ish Ranger case I have, not a problem, easy to make a new one.

 

[arse_sidewards]

The problem with the B2 shifter is that while it travels in the right arc it's too far forward. I can't just move it back because then the knob would be running into the seat in 4L. This would also put the hole into the cab portion of the tunnel, not the removable panel. I'm gonna weld up a longer shift arm and hope that I don't have to mod the gates too much to make it work.

Also, FWIW I made the initial hole by using the foam on the bottom as a template and while the left/right offset was correct it wound up several inches too far forward. The shifter is in the 2H position in here.

The hole you actually need with the shifter I used winds up being wholly outside the OEM bezel area. I didn't know this and basically committed to doing something from scratch when I started cutting. I think if one were careful they could cut just the bare minimum hole and put a universal small boot over it.

 

[arse_sidewards]

A morning worth of guess and check later the shifter works. I didn't touch the gates or the shifter rod. I simply made the fork longer and make the arm coming off the transfer case longer and adjusted the angle a tad. The fork could have been maybe 1/4" or so shorter. As it stands there's just barely clearance between the fork and the case and just barely clearance between the transfer case arm and the double cardan yoke. I added a rib on the bottom (only side it fit) for rigidity because I was worried about the tip of the fork getting sloppy and making it hard to get in and out of 4L

 

[SenorNoob]

I know in my case the shifter REALLY stretches the stock to both extremes when in use. Also I think I understand now why my first Ranger I had to cut the end out the shifter gate to get it into 2wd.

 

[arse_sidewards]

The OEM bushing is a square plastic thing. This presses right onto the shaft.

I don't care if it wears quickly because they're so cheap and clearly per my testing without it the shifter is capable of hitting all positions even if the bushing is gone.