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Egr removel problem, need help


Joelzme

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2007
Messages
61
Age
49
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
I have a 1991 ranger xlt 2.3L. I am having rough idle problems and code 332 so I want to clean and/or replace my Egr if necessary. The flange nut that connects the exhaust pipe to the EGR is impossible to remove! I have soaked it with pb breaker but I can't get leverage to take it out. Do I have to remove the upper intake manifold to do this? I am a newbie at this and really want to to this myself.

I was going to try and take it off at the exhaust manifold, but it's no better there to get a wrench on. Any one that has done this have some words of wisdom?

Thanks,
Joel
 
Even though the carbed version is slightly different, they WILL come off...unfortunately they can be very frustrating at first...but once you loosen them up they will pretty much fly off and on...

If you can get a wrench on the nut and then use a hammer or other heavy object to whack away at it you will eventually loosen it enough to take it off...I think I ended up cutting the pipe off mine the first time I did it and the older pipes are NOT easy to find in one piece...so unless you have a spare kicking around try not to go that route if possible...

But you should be able to get an crescent wrench on the nut and hammer upwards at it...I've taken a few off the FI TBs and they are usually easier than the carbed ones...

Have fun...:)
 
Thanks, after looking on here and trouble shooting I think my problems are all steming from the pfe/dpfe sensor and I'm going to replace that and see what happens. However I got the 2 bolts off the EGR and broke the gasket loose so I will still need to get the pipe off so I can replace the gasket. It's going to be fun either way, but thanks for your quick reply.
 
Best to use a tubing wrench if you can find one so you don't round the corners off the nut. A Crescent or open wrench will do this if you get too rough with them. Bolt it back to the manifold before trying to loosen the nut. Also, the tubing wrench puts more even torque on the nut, and makes it easier to break loose. shady
 
Thanks shade, thats exactly the tool I think i need! let you all know how it turns out.
 
Best to use a tubing wrench if you can find one so you don't round the corners off the nut. A Crescent or open wrench will do this if you get too rough with them. Bolt it back to the manifold before trying to loosen the nut. Also, the tubing wrench puts more even torque on the nut, and makes it easier to break loose. shady

Tubing wrench? I've never heard of or seen one...maybe I have seen one, but didn't know what it was...have to google that one...interesting!

NOTE: Just searched...only $40 for a wrench! I hope you find one cheaper than that...but it looks like it would be a bit better than a crescent wrench...mine never stripped the nut, but best to not take a chance if possible...

Learn something nude every day! :)
 
Last edited:
Apply some heat to the nut and it will loosen up - propane torch should work fine , just be careful as to where the flame is traveling - wear some gloves so your hands dont get burned aftrer it loosens up - good luck !
 
What I think I actually need is a flange nut wrench. It's 6 sided and is open so I can slide it around the exhaust tube. Update: I replaced the pfe/dpfe sensor and it cleared out all the codes, but she is still idling very rough so I am still thinking that the EGR is sticking open a little. Going to take it off in the next day or two and go from there....try to clean it out. Also checking the vacuum tubes and probably going to change the spark plugs and wires.

If that doesnt work.... don't know what to do next as I have not thrown any codes. This board is very helpful so feel free to suggest anything.
 
I got the thing off with w 1 1/4 wrench and a lot of p b blaster. So I cleaned out the EGR, replaced the gasket, replaced the PCV valve, spark plugs (really bad) and wires, fired her up and still terrible idle speed.

Took the (newer) ICM to Autozone and it failed. Replaced and now running better. Does the ICM control fuel mixture or does the ECM do that? Also, for sure, will this vehicle retain the fuel economy information in it's memory and adjust it over time? Second time I have had to replace a "duralast" ICM for this truck.
 

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