EcoBoost Swap

[adsm08]

Yeah, the only place I see a potential problem with the existing fuel system is in the pump itself.

Most Rangers use a mechanical returnless system, which is actually a return system, but rather than returning from the rail the return happens in the fuel filter, when line pressure farther up gets high enough.

The ecoboost vehicles all lack an external fuel filter, and are electronic returnless, which means the computer pulses the fuel pump to achieve the desired pressure.

Honestly, even that I don't think will pose a major issue. The only physical difference is the return port on the pump. Cap the return port and put a non-return filter in.

Then you just have to adjust the wiring a hair. MRFS run the pump constantly like a return-type, with a direct line between the computer and the relay. ERFS uses a fuel pump driver to create the duty cycle. Hook up your FPDM to the computer, hook the pump to the FPDM, and then you should be good to go on that front.

 

[RioRanger505]

Yeah, the only place I see a potential problem with the existing fuel system is in the pump itself.

Most Rangers use a mechanical returnless system, which is actually a return system, but rather than returning from the rail the return happens in the fuel filter, when line pressure farther up gets high enough.

The ecoboost vehicles all lack an external fuel filter, and are electronic returnless, which means the computer pulses the fuel pump to achieve the desired pressure.

Honestly, even that I don't think will pose a major issue. The only physical difference is the return port on the pump. Cap the return port and put a non-return filter in.

Then you just have to adjust the wiring a hair. MRFS run the pump constantly like a return-type, with a direct line between the computer and the relay. ERFS uses a fuel pump driver to create the duty cycle. Hook up your FPDM to the computer, hook the pump to the FPDM, and then you should be good to go on that front.

Awesome information, thanks. x

 

[don4331]

I gave this concept serious thought, so am subscribed.

Another choice for transmission:
There are bell housings available to allow you to bolt a T-5 to a duratech and if you use the S10 rear housing, the shifter remains in stock location. Just sayin'

Truckirs has a kit which allows you to install a T-Bird IRS under your Ranger. It's still a little wider than the stock axle, but if you use wheels with greater backspacing (e.g. Mustang), it isn't an issue. (Still a couple inches wider but hard to notice). Note: T-Bird has 5x4.25 pattern not the Ranger/Mustang 5x4.5. But you can swap Cobra IRS hubs in and get the correct pattern.

 

[RioRanger505]

I gave this concept serious thought, so am subscribed.

Another choice for transmission:
There are bell housings available to allow you to bolt a T-5 to a duratech and if you use the S10 rear housing, the shifter remains in stock location. Just sayin'

Truckirs has a kit which allows you to install a T-Bird IRS under your Ranger. It's still a little wider than the stock axle, but if you use wheels with greater backspacing (e.g. Mustang), it isn't an issue. (Still a couple inches wider but hard to notice). Note: T-Bird has 5x4.25 pattern not the Ranger/Mustang 5x4.5. But you can swap Cobra IRS hubs in and get the correct pattern.

I love all the information everyone's been giving. I really want a 6 speed just because of the gas mileage as this will continue being my daily after the swap so the gas mileage increase I'll get with the extra ratio will be nice. However with the type of racing I'll be doing a 5 speed will surely be better. I know there's going to be much more aftermarket support for the T-5 as opposed to the stock 5 speed for the 2.3 but to keep the initial costs down I'll probably go with the stock 5 speed then swap it out for something better down the line. As far as the IRS kit, I don't really mind having the axle longer than stock because I planned on getting some fender flares to put some Tarmacs and wide tires under it anyway.

 

[stmitch]

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the T5. It's only real advantage over an M5OD is the aftermarket. But to get that aftermarket, you have to figure out a whole bunch of custom stuff to make the engine/clutch/trans all work together (this is the issue that they ran into with Project Ugly horse before deciding to use the Miata trans).

If you use the stock Ranger trans, obviously there's no custom fab or figuring. Everything works, and bolts up. Ranger clutch, slave, master cylinder and trans, right off the shelf. If you're starting with a duratec powered truck, it's already there. If you're sticking with your current truck, all of it is available off the shelf from your local parts store.

If you go with the Miata 6 spd, it still bolts together and meshes just fine, but you'll probably need to use Miata clutch parts instead of Ranger stuff. And you may also need a different length driveshaft, but that's a lot easier than doing custom stuff inside the bellhousing.

I think where a lot of projects like this get hung up, is adding complexity that doesn't need to be there. If you use 'off the shelf' parts wherever you can, it will save you a lot of time, money and headaches; both now, and down the line if something breaks. The KISS principle should be in full effect wherever possible. I'm certain there will be headaches involved in a build of this magnitude. Make your life as easy as you can, wherever you can, so you can focus on the other stuff that comes up. It will make the whole project seem less daunting if you don't have to figure out a bunch of small custom stuff. It will also keep you from being nickel and dimed to death which means your parts supply stays pretty steady instead of having to hold off while your bank account recovers, and it speeds up the whole process if you're not waiting for custom parts to be designed, made, and shipped.


EDIT: While the 6 speed would be very nice for dropping the rpms while cruising, my stock Duratec/5 spd truck gets 30mpg as my commuter. If you can stay out of the boost, I'd guess that a direct injected version would be able to exceed that, even with the 5 spd trans.

 

[bobbywalter]

well....if in fact the ranger stuff is bolt in as far as the transmission goes...this is a cakewalk swap.


i dont see this as some sort of challenge in any light.

i am still stuck on diesel for my b2....these engines wont run on used oil like diesels do.


big challenge here with the ecoboost is powersteering on the bigger engines, where a 2wd ranger can be manual no problem. but the fusion/focus engines i looked at had powersteering pumps from a 2013...

and uhhhh..... that is not a big challenge anyway to add a pump..

there are focus engines trading 1300-2200 with 15-30k miles. if it is the best engine then it is still reasonable. but if i can score a 5-600 dollar fusion engine, why the hell not? this will happen in time for myself...i need a cheap commuter.


and i am certain there are many rangers out there already with some sort of eco motor..

 

[RioRanger505]

well....if in fact the ranger stuff is bolt in as far as the transmission goes...this is a cakewalk swap.





i dont see this as some sort of challenge in any light.



i am still stuck on diesel for my b2....these engines wont run on used oil like diesels do.





big challenge here with the ecoboost is powersteering on the bigger engines, where a 2wd ranger can be manual no problem. but the fusion/focus engines i looked at had powersteering pumps from a 2013...



and uhhhh..... that is not a big challenge anyway to add a pump..



there are focus engines trading 1300-2200 with 15-30k miles. if it is the best engine then it is still reasonable. but if i can score a 5-600 dollar fusion engine, why the hell not? this will happen in time for myself...i need a cheap commuter.





and i am certain there are many rangers out there already with some sort of eco motor..

Considering the fact that I am 20 years old and having never done a motor swap before, this was admittedly a huge task for me to even consider at first. However as I've done more and more research, you are absolutely correct, this should be a cake walk. The only reason I don't go with a fusion or escape 2.0 is because of the difference in the exhaust manifold and turbo. They make less power and I'm sure the stock tune on the controls pack won't like the difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RioRanger505]

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the T5. It's only real advantage over an M5OD is the aftermarket. But to get that aftermarket, you have to figure out a whole bunch of custom stuff to make the engine/clutch/trans all work together (this is the issue that they ran into with Project Ugly horse before deciding to use the Miata trans).

If you use the stock Ranger trans, obviously there's no custom fab or figuring. Everything works, and bolts up. Ranger clutch, slave, master cylinder and trans, right off the shelf. If you're starting with a duratec powered truck, it's already there. If you're sticking with your current truck, all of it is available off the shelf from your local parts store.

If you go with the Miata 6 spd, it still bolts together and meshes just fine, but you'll probably need to use Miata clutch parts instead of Ranger stuff. And you may also need a different length driveshaft, but that's a lot easier than doing custom stuff inside the bellhousing.

I think where a lot of projects like this get hung up, is adding complexity that doesn't need to be there. If you use 'off the shelf' parts wherever you can, it will save you a lot of time, money and headaches; both now, and down the line if something breaks. The KISS principle should be in full effect wherever possible. I'm certain there will be headaches involved in a build of this magnitude. Make your life as easy as you can, wherever you can, so you can focus on the other stuff that comes up. It will make the whole project seem less daunting if you don't have to figure out a bunch of small custom stuff. It will also keep you from being nickel and dimed to death which means your parts supply stays pretty steady instead of having to hold off while your bank account recovers, and it speeds up the whole process if you're not waiting for custom parts to be designed, made, and shipped.


EDIT: While the 6 speed would be very nice for dropping the rpms while cruising, my stock Duratec/5 spd truck gets 30mpg as my commuter. If you can stay out of the boost, I'd guess that a direct injected version would be able to exceed that, even with the 5 spd trans.

My thinking exactly as far as the complexity and extra effort required. To get it running within a decent amount of time and money I'll probably stick with an M5OD and as I have more money and time I'll upgrade to the 6 speed or a 5 with better aftermarket support. And who knows, if I'm getting the kind of gas mileage you are with your 5 speed I probably won't change the transmission. Then again that's on the assumption I'll keep my foot out of it...I'll probably need that 6 speed... Haha



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[stmitch]

Considering the fact that I am 20 years old and having never done a motor swap before, this was admittedly a huge task for me to even consider at first.

Ok, this information makes me revert back to my original suggestion. Take the easy route here. Sell the 3.0 truck, buy a Duratec/5spd truck. Have a turbo header made and bolt it on. Replace the injectors. Buy an SCT tuner with custom tunes and just plug it in. The hardest thing you'd have to do is mount an intercooler and route some piping.

This would let you:
skip the power steering issues
avoid the increased complexity of the fuel system and VVT
Avoid expensive wiring setups
keep your HVAC stuff as it is
have an engine that is lighter, and less complex, so there's less to go wrong.

You'd end up with the same basic result as your Ecoboost swap, but it would fit the engine bay better, be cheaper, have FAR fewer things to go wrong, and you could have it done in a weekend with the right planning.

Please don't think I'm trying to insult you with my suggestion, but I remember being 20. It wasn't that long ago. It was easy for my confidence to outweigh my abilities. I kick myself for sometimes making things much harder than they needed to be. Take the easy stuff when it is there. Take the money that you'd save vs the Ecoboost stuff and invest it, or put it towards college or something. At 20, you have the chance to really lay a solid foundation for the rest of your life financially, and you don't get that chance back. Ok, that's my "big brother" speech. Im curious to see whatever you decide to do.

 

[RioRanger505]

Ok, this information makes me revert back to my original suggestion. Take the easy route here. Sell the 3.0 truck, buy a Duratec/5spd truck. Have a turbo header made and bolt it on. Replace the injectors. Buy an SCT tuner with custom tunes and just plug it in. The hardest thing you'd have to do is mount an intercooler and route some piping.



This would let you:

skip the power steering issues

avoid the increased complexity of the fuel system and VVT

Avoid expensive wiring setups

keep your HVAC stuff as it is

have an engine that is lighter, and less complex, so there's less to go wrong.



You'd end up with the same basic result as your Ecoboost swap, but it would fit the engine bay better, be cheaper, have FAR fewer things to go wrong, and you could have it done in a weekend with the right planning.



Please don't think I'm trying to insult you with my suggestion, but I remember being 20. It wasn't that long ago. It was easy for my confidence to outweigh my abilities. I kick myself for sometimes making things much harder than they needed to be. Take the easy stuff when it is there. Take the money that you'd save vs the Ecoboost stuff and invest it, or put it towards college or something. At 20, you have the chance to really lay a solid foundation for the rest of your life financially, and you don't get that chance back. Ok, that's my "big brother" speech. Im curious to see whatever you decide to do.

I don't take it as an insult in the least bit. I very well may go with the Duratech if I get some parts together and get stuck. If this EcoBoost swap doesn't pan out at least this thread will have some information that I didn't have plus what I already had and someone else will do it. I am however very determined to do it and will do my best to get it done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bobbywalter]

20 years old?

mere relative....i wish i was 20.


stuffing v8's into rangers was something i could do in my sleep when i was 20.....i wish i would have had the shit that is out here now when i was 20....

350 hp capable at a flip of a switch 35 mpg ranger would be my likely ride

 

[89EcoRanger]

New Here and I am looking to put an EcoBoost in my Ranger too. I have been doing my research as well, and I’ll let you in on what I’m considering, as well as my questions.
I've been looking at two options.

Option 1 is a salvage 2013-2016 Ford Focus ST 2.0L or 2015-2016 Mustang with the 2.3L EcoBoost as a donors. Because it will have all emission control systems and wiring needed to make the swap.

Option 2 is Ford Performances using their crate engine part number M-9000-20TK. ($6000.00 with wire harness) + (Tremec Trans TR-3550 $2500.00)

Now in my state I need all emission systems for the year of the engine I am putting in the vehicle. Which are EVAP, one HO2S and one Catalyst monitor, COP and EEC-V and 1 two way catalytic converter. All of these would come on the donor vehicle along with fuel system. Now what I am trying to find out are using a donor car newer systems from the donor car like ABS, security systems and traction control that’s not needed for emissions and that may interface with engine ECU\PCM and keep it from running or turning on the Check Engine Light that I can disabled on fords ECU\PCM, also anything else that I may run into doing this swap from a donor vehicle?

I have recently purchased the 2015 Mustang ford shop service manual to research the full electrical system because I am leaning towards the mustang drive train for the donor. It has the motor mounts, transmission and cat facing the right way, plus it has the 2.3L in it and if I want to later I could put the rear end in it. Now, on using a crate engine, The crate engine and wiring harness seems to be the easiest for graphing in to the older wiring harness except for finding out if it’s possible to add the wiring for EVAP, one HO2S and one Catalyst monitor and if the ECU\PCM that comes with the wiring harness will accept the addition of the new systems for the emissions. Now for the other systems that are listed in the emissions book that the state uses are COP and EEC-V come with the crate engine setup and I can buy the 1 two way catalytic converter.

I know that this is a large project and not going to be easy. That’s why I am trying to find out as much as I can before doing it. You may be thinking WHY? I don’t need ABS or traction control, those devices are at the of end my ankle, GPS I can print it out or buy it at a truck stop if needed, Bluetooth or phone interface is “leave a message and I will get back to you”. I guess in short, all I am looking to keep is my small 4 cylinder standard transmission rear wheel drive truck that can get out of its own way without all the other unwanted systems. Plus the engine that comes in this truck is about a 5 horse and the ecoboost comes with 200+ horses (it’s like putting old v8) in it.

 

[bobbywalter]

where are you located? what year truck??


they dont have a carb eo number on the ford controller, but i would try to get away with it as the tune will run clean if you have an older ranger...just depends on what year it is. if it is obd1 then it wont be an issue if you handle it loosely. its a turbo 4 whizzer...i turboed my 4 whizzer....

if its got converters and o2 sensors you can bullshit it through with many areas as long as its clean.

i had a guy do an opacity test on my truck at a shop in fla, just to see how that worked. not what i thought it was....barely passed. but diesels are exempt many places.


i have had these fusion motors drop into the 800 range which is really peaking my interest...but that is not with what i would like for turnkey wiring...i am still at 12-1300 i figure to get it running in front of a ranger transmission. and those trade pretty high in price themselves going 300-600 for a manual or auto with higher miles. and i will have to convert them as well to 4x4. if i had a truck with the powertrain already i would be on it. i still am surprised its not done to death. i can see where a guy has to deal with strict emissions, not wanting to try and tk a car setup, but you can shop one of the frpp deals down to 1500 or so and build a pretty cool 2.3 or 2.5 powered truck if you want a 2wd for damn cheap and very little brain power involved.

350 pounds of torque aint nothing to laugh at out of a 300 pound engine.

not sure how long a ranger trans would last behind that though

i bet a guy can do this cheaper and easier then a diy turbo setup on a n/a engine if one has the hookup on the tuning.

 

[89EcoRanger]

I live in Nevada, the year of the truck 1989 which is OBD1 system. It has an EVAP, Gas Cap and a CAT for emissions systems.

I know the diys could be cheaper but the engine is old and ready to go so I would have to rebuild a POS.

 

[stmitch]

I'm going to direct you to my previous posts in this thread. Skip the complexity and cost of the Ecoboost, and just turbo a duratec 2.3. You'd get the same performance with less weight, complexity and cost.
It won't have the traction control, TPMS, infotainment blah blah blah stuff. It's not direct injection, so you can keep your current fuel system. It's WAY easier to find somebody to do a tune that just adds fuel and adjusts timing than it is to find somebody to eliminate all of the complex, intertwined electronics stuff that you'd need to remove. Since it came in the platform originally, things like cooling hoses, wiring, etc would be the correct lengths, instead of something from a totally different vehicle that would require lots of custom work.

For well under what you'd spend doing the EcoBoost swap using an entire donor car, or paying Ford's prices for a crate engine/trans, you could buy a wrecked 01+ ranger 4 cyl, injectors, a turbo, a custom manifold, an intercooler, piping, and a tuner to swap into your current truck. Or skip the whole engine swap, sell your truck and do all of the turbo stuff to a Duratec truck.