So I'm finally getting around to getting a front driveline. Anywho just curious what people are using/doing at te yoke of the 44. Any input would be great, thanks in advance.
St
St
-
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register
for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.
Eb d44 driveline to 1350
- Thread starter BAMFranger
- Start date
Should be the same 297X joint as the D35 TTB unless you switched yokes. If that's the case (hence the 1350 joint needed) Use the stock ranger driveshaft and get a conversion joint from ringpinion.com. Grab 2 or 3 for trail extras.
hey thanks for the super quick response but i meant bw1350. not sure if thats what you were talking about or not. but ill look into that web site. thanks a ton!!!
st
st
^ Only been a year since you needed that drive shaft!
My stock Ranger front drive shaft fit my Full width Dana 44. I just shortened my own drive shaft since it won't see any high speed in 4wd.
My stock Ranger front drive shaft fit my Full width Dana 44. I just shortened my own drive shaft since it won't see any high speed in 4wd.
Shran
Junk Collector
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Solid Axle Swap
Truck of Month
I believe I had to make my factory driveshaft about 2" longer. Worked great. I ground out the between yokes a lot to add extra clearance for the joint, which you may or may not need to do.
yeah yeah laugh it up...hahahah i've been to busy with stuff and i figure since summer is getting here i better hurry up and finish the damn truck off.
i asked a buddy about this and he said just take it in. you didn't balance it at all. no crazy vibs when wheeling?
Well it only spins when you have the hubs locked (You already know that) and I don't drive fast when they are locked. I have only wheeled about 10-15mph but I didn't feel any vibration. I've only been driving the truck for 2 weeks now. lol
Yeah I'm his worried about heading over the pass in 4wd. Having to cruise at 10-15 just sounds like a crappy idea. I don't know I'll figure it out in the next couple of weeks or so. Thanks for all the input!! Much appreciated.
My truck probably couldn't do more than 40mph on the pass. Honestly the shaft is probably fairly balanced and I'd say as straight as I could possibly get it. I didn't want to spend $100 on a shop to shorten and balance it when hopefully I will be doing a doubler. And I won't drive in 4wd with my front locker on the street.
Did you just use a horizontal band saw to cut it? Cause I have access to one and a good welder too. In theory if I chop it and it turns out really unbalanced I can take it to a shop and have them redo it...
Shran
Junk Collector
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Solid Axle Swap
Truck of Month
You won't get a 100% straight cut even with a band saw. The only way is a lathe. However you can get it close enough that it won't matter. I have built a bunch of front driveshafts and they all turned out OK... just tack, check straightness, tack, repeat.
no kidding, i thought those band saws were pretty b.a. well ill have to give it a whirl on my next day off then and see where it gets me. thanks for all the info gents, much appreciated!!!!
Nope, I used my favorite tool...a grinder with a cut off wheel. It was crooked but I could care less. I had no idea how to remove the end of the yoke from the shaft so I cut it in the middle. I welded 3 pieces of angle iron sticking straight up about 4" from the cut I just made 120 degrees apart from each other. I then cut my shaft about 2.5" and butted the other shaft against the other shaft. The angle iron held the shaft in place and made it straight. Then I tacked it a bunch of times, removed the angle iron and fully welded it. If it breaks I won't lose any sleep...
You could take it to Six States in Salem if it turns out unbalanced. They quoted me $100 to shorten and balance the shaft.
You could take it to Six States in Salem if it turns out unbalanced. They quoted me $100 to shorten and balance the shaft.
^ Very easy to do that with a bench grinder. Grind down the weld to where you see the seam at and then split the tube w/ a cutoff wheel. The tube will pop right off and leave a perfectly clean line to show you where to true up the tubing at.
Sponsored Ad
Sponsored Ad
TRS Events
Member & Vendor Upgrades
For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.
Recently Featured
Ranger Adventure Video
TRS Merchandise
Follow TRS On Instagram
