Easiest Year for BII V8 Swap

[rednine4]

So I am looking to do a carbed 302 swap into a BII and dont really have a preference of which year BII I use. I just want to use the BII that will be easiest and make the most sense based on the parts I have collected up.. My swap parts include Advanced adapters mounts, Advanced adapters headers, C5 trans with swapped 164 tooth bell and valve body from a C4 mated to the stock T-case (1350)... Would an 84-85 BII be easier than say a 86-90's? Let me know your Opinions and thoughts based on experience.

 

[Teddyzee]

They should all be the same, or very, very similar.

The 4by guys may know if some years have stronger parts.

 

[The_Dealer]

83-85 would be the easiest. run a carb'd 302 or a 5.0 h.o. with a carb'd 302 intake. then make new motor mount plates, run some explorer tes headers, convert to duraspark(83-84 is plug and play...mine wasnt but was easy to wire), use duraspark vacuum advance disty, swap radiator from advance or duff. swap done. u can duraspark before u go to swap then can run the 2.8 til u get everything ready. any b2 will need the d35 swap in the front and 8.8 swap rear.

86+ with efi 2.9 will be a little bit more involved but still not to bad. just make sure u take your time on the wiring.

either way i would use the c5 out of an 83 b2 or ranger. they are a little hard to find but u can get one for about 200-250, use c4 v/b, t/c, and c4 bellhousing and u are ready to go, your 1350/1354 will be plenty strong unless u get crazy with it. hope this helps u out im sure others will have some input. might wanna try to post over on www.pirate4x4.com

i would also go with the smaller 153 tooth flywheel and bellhousing, it will make clearances and every thing else alot easier to deal with. dont have any experience but i did stay at a holiday inn express last night. lmao kidding, ive helped do a few on rangers mostly 86+ but have been doing alot of research on older carb'd rbvs as i will eventually do mine

 

[MMRanger]

83-85 would be the easiest. run a carb'd 302 or a 5.0 h.o. with a carb'd 302 intake. then make new motor mount plates, run some explorer tes headers, convert to duraspark(83-84 is plug and play...mine wasnt but was easy to wire), use duraspark vacuum advance disty, swap radiator from advance or duff. swap done. u can duraspark before u go to swap then can run the 2.8 til u get everything ready. any b2 will need the d35 swap in the front and 8.8 swap rear.

Thanks for this. Will use this as a reference.

i would also go with the smaller 153 tooth Flywheel and bellhousing, it will make clearances and every thing else alot easier to deal with. dont have any experience but i did stay at a holiday inn express last night. lmao kidding, ive helped do a few on rangers mostly 86+ but have been doing alot of research on older carb'd rbvs as i will eventually do mine

Thanks also, found a scrapyard here that has the 153 and a friend has a bellhousing to spare that I can buy. Will take note.

 

[Teddyzee]

Guess I overlooked the possibility of the high pressure fuel system in EFI vehicles. Sorry about that.

 

[The_Dealer]

Thanks for this. Will use this as a reference.



Thanks also, found a scrapyard here that has the 153 and a friend has a bellhousing to spare that I can buy. Will take note.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-513310/ or

i prefer new bellhousings when u can get one this cheap, also would go with a new flexplate...pulling a 4wd trans sucks. dont wanna get it all together and find a problem u didnt see

 

[Sighman]

Also if you're gonna put this thing on the road keep in mind possible smog/inspection issues...

 

[rednine4]

Thanks for the good info. I am mainly concerned about avoiding all the possible snags along the way.. Seems like it should be pretty straight forward based on everything ive read, however there is always something lol.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Up to '85 if you are going carbed.

'86+ if you are going fuel injected. Carbed isn't really that big of a deal either though but ideally the older would be a tad easier.

Some really late '90's are rumored to have a D35 in the front, which would pretty much negate most of the other differences. It would save you from ripping the front suspension out of another truck and switching with yours.

A bodylift makes everything easier too. I can get at my t-case to transmission bolts from below now without ripping the seat, carpet and shifter plate out thanks to it. It also frees up a TON of space under the hood, and even makes the factory V-6 easier to work on let alone a V-8.

 

[Psychopete]

Buy what you can find that's in good shape.

 

[rednine4]

Yeah that's the best bet I supposed to find the most rust free BII I can for the best price.... It's a hard find here in Northeastern Ohio.

One last thing... with those AA mounts and C4...Does anyone know if I will have to shorten my drive shafts at all??

I guess that might be one of those things I'll find out when the time comes lol.

 

[Psychopete]

One last thing... with those AA mounts and C4...Does anyone know if I will have to shorten my drive shafts at all??

I guess that might be one of those things I'll find out when the time comes lol.

Same w/ rust here. Hard to find anything that's not ate up and in good shape. But I am sure there are some that exist, think that will save the most money in the long run.

Some are too long, some yokes are right, some are not, etc. Mine was too short and wrong yoke. Just one of those things you'll have to see where you are once the engine and trans are in place.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The theory is with the AA adapter is that it should put your t-case in about the same place as it was originally.

 

[The_Dealer]

c5 with c4 valve body torque converter and bellhousing will work. if u can find an 83 auto it will be the easier to swap. just add those and u will be ok. if u just swap in a c5 from another ranger u will need to shorten front shaft and lengthen rear about 2"

 

[rednine4]

yeah im guessing i may run into some drive shaft length issues then... no biggie.. I have the C5 out of a 84BII with a C4 Valve body, and Torque Converter ect... Bolts right to the stock t-case... just not sure about how the 164tooth bell housing is gonna change the length... if at all ect...