duraspark ignition coil

[robert.humm]

do the coils vary for bosch & ford ignitions? i'm looking at coils from rockauto & only one of them specifies that it's for ford & bosch..

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Only in output as far as I know is there any reason why you don`t want to use the stock coil. If your using the duraspark you get plenty of fire and won`t need a ballast resistor

 

[robert.humm]

no, not any reason particularly. how would you wire it to the stock coil? i actually just replaced my stock coil a few weeks back.. & what is the ballast resistor?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

on the 8 wire connector that had the computer wires there is a hot wire key on hook it to pos on the coil if it not already if i remember correct it was the hot to the computer and the TFI. My schematic says the red/ltgreen wire from the ignition but it is dark out but mine is dark with a light stripe. You dont need a resistor as the stock coil will handle battery voltage if you use the round aftermarket coil you need a ballast resistor or you will burn the coil out in minutes hot to positive same connector as the noise capacitor and green from the module to negative it`s that simple. I was pulling a vacuum line off the tree and accidentally knocked one of the plug wires off the cap with my left hand and got a arc with my right hand about 2 inches as my body fluttered. he he and I am running autolite single platinum plugs that burn hot and clean. I hear the stock motorcraft plugs work real good also.

 

[robert.humm]

sounds good! & sorry about that arc haha.. that's not cool. i cannot find any donor vehciles in my area.. & have been buying everything new. i am going to make my own harness i guess, other than buying the plugs from napa, how do i go about doing this?

 

[robert.humm]

i meant i'm planning on buying the plugs from napa. what guage wire do i need to buy? how much? how do i make it? just connect the two plugs ins? i'm going to salvage some of my factory harness..

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I am not sure on the guage of wire I suppose when you strip them You can match it up that way using the connectors is the best for the ignition module not so on the distributor tho as I hear they are real durable and if you put the 4 wire connector and the two wire to plug it right in for a quick change in the future possibly. I would say just make sure the colors match up solder and tape or shrink wrap them individually then as a loop. I almost gave up when I found my harness it was just long enough to mount the module next to the coil. The two wire plugged right in from the ignition. I am sure the wires from the TFI should be big enough there has to be some similar colors that are long enough in the emission harness. Have you taken the old harness out yet I started at the 8 wire connector and stripped it back to the alternator then keeping the wires I needed connected If your careful you can save some of the sarrated plastic to wrap the good wires then I pulled everything off the passenger wheel well except the start solenoid I still have the clump of wires and vacuum just in case until i make a dump run anyway.

 

[robert.humm]

no, i have not started to remove the old harness yet. i just ordered the rest of my parts today. i will probably start removing some of the emissions garbage tomorrow though. i don't want to remove any of the wiring until i have everything to reassemble it. where is the "8 wire connector" located? how will i reconnect the the wires i still need? or rather where will i connect them?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I did not even cut the wires you need. there is a 8 wire connector by the coil I just stripped the harness back to where you know which ones go to the alternator 3 wires, water temp and oil pressure. you can trace the wires to the coil also the one that has the two wires out of the coil is the pos and the other is negative you only need to cut the negative wire long enough to connect to the duraspark plug green 4 wire and leave the posative connected. you only need to cut a couple wires going to the computer you will see which ones. I had fairly new plug wires and I guess the spark is the same as the stock TFI system with the stock coil so use the stock plugs also. I am burning autolite single platinum plugs but I guess the motorcraft are the best if you can get them. Oh yea there is a hot at the 8 wire connector key on you can use for the choke and I have the vapor cannister solenoid hard wired too and no longer get fuel vapor in the engine compartment I just put a restrictor in the vacuum line to it so it pulls a vacuum but does not change the vacuum pressure I noticed when I connected it direct to manifold vacuum it changed the idle speed when I unplugged it from the vapor cannister just somthing you can play with I allways hated the fuel smell after I shut the engine off I no longer get that. Every tim I go to the bone yard I grab some vacuum fittings and try different things but she runs so good right now theres no need to go there. I got paid yesterday and gonna spring for synthetic oil the first in my life unless someone here tells me not to anyway you can call me 206-909-3308 if you have any Qs Kim

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

If you have ANY oil leaks don't do synthetic. It will literally pour out of any seals that are in questionable shape. But if the engine is sealed up good, go for it.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

tks I put he synthetic castrol 10/40 with a motorcraft filter will give that a shot I actually got about 5 qts of oil when I drained it so I am pretty sure I fixed the leaks when I did the intake gaskets and valve covers